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Have had problems with fuel sender pumps on fords. Learnt my lesson with the o rings on them getting damaged. Always learning.?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
must admit i miss the days where stuff was made to last and not built to fail and all the stupid electronics and use once parts like stretch bolts,, all designed to cost anyone more money and time to use them etc, also a stretch bolt can loose over time its tensile with heat and age more so on hot running engines like prince is,
 

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Passed my driving test in an MGB nice and simple car, wish I still had it. Still I do have my toy car, started it today you've got to love a carb and dizzy.
 

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Passed my driving test in an MGB nice and simple car, wish I still had it. Still I do have my toy car, started it today you've got to love a carb and dizzy.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
must admit i love the sound of v8 with proper carbs add some straight out pipes lol,
 

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Discussion Starter #27
And ear plugs on a run LOL
ha ha thats funny i know its strange when i was younger louder the better think i have finally arrived at old age where noises drill their way in to my mind and more torment me than anything else day by day the victor meldrew keeps trying to escape lol, at least a loud toyota supra or a cooper s can drum some of it out by winding up the windows and put radio louder,, your sort of buggered on all levels with that car lol
 

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Have done several hundred motorway miles in a day, the buffeting really takes it's toll both noise and wind, but the smiles per mile is addictive and legal LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #29
must admit i miss my bikes not that i could ride one at the moment with my neck the way it is, waiting for specialists appointment now see if they can sort it,
 

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Discussion Starter #30
and finally it drives and so to next level sort out the other stuff that the last owner caused by just keep driving it without sorting the timing chain, next job new lamda sensors and work out why lack of boost feels like a diverter valve on turbo fault but might just be lamda sensors that were killed off by the oil burning and timing chain stretched,, i have reset with autocom the adaptions and vanos adaptations its will do these functions on the r56 cooper s and the r53,, i also paint the aircon rad and coolant rad with black satin helps deal with heat better and looks better pics below,
if i went with my gut feeling rather than thinking just once the lamda sensors would be fine when i really do know they dont and order them it would be finished now,
 

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Discussion Starter #31
finally today all running nice all the oil that was in exhaust burnt off and got away with a little trick with 02 sensors i soak them over night is seafoam then next day use EGR cleaner spray to clean them off sometimes this brings them back,, very important to let dry before plugging back in to car, then reset adaptations and then drive car nice and rev'y for 20 miles,, seems to have worked on this car now have 0.45v ish when in closed loop and the upstream is running faster than the down stream but still have not mapped the car and removed the reset the sensors within the map to run as decat that next job in a few days,, but at present trying to pile some miles on it before its let loose on on rolling road,, this all said when mapped aiming for 230bhp and more low down torque rather than very bhp that use's more fuel ie want the car to be fair mpg car for the power thats more the aim, but will when mapped post the results on the runs etc,
little heads up when having a car rolling road set up its important there is no faults on ecu and that the car does not smoke and really should have a service before to get best results, we always code read all cars before adding power failure to this can end up in engine damage,,, after the partial rebuild i done on this car and used the latest N18 piston rings with nylon oil ring so far its just played nice also the piston rings are a black tensile and just lock stronger than the carbon sprung steal of older ones deffo a better upgrade i feel but time will tell but so far it runs so well live data the smooth running and firing of all 4 cylinders all 4 are the same,, when rev'd its smooth and loads of oil at top of engine shows good oil pressure even the cheaper timing chain has no nasty noises to it but did use factory tensioner ie longer and not so hard, as i rebuilt this for our family use was done on price and value for money, where if i do them for anyone else they have a choice between factory parts or after market etc, in a perfect world i would of pulled engine out removed the crank and had re grind etc, but this car only has under 60k on it and the crank is shiny and bearings are all good so never needed i also use a DTI to check bores and micrometer to measure the crank both were near to perfect which is mad really i really did when buying this and starting the engine etc think t was going to be basket case and a total rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
update on this project when i bought it always had in back of head it might need a turbo and after rebuild and few miles of running in its finally went all the way no boost smokey over runs and oil in the inter cooler etc so front off car and removed the centre chamber only ie this is the bit that does the work etc, checked all the parts as removed all other parts are perfect even the waste gate penny valve and controller all cam e back like new so now i know all need to do is replace the centre chamber ie £75 delivered, alot cheaper than the £300 plus for refurb unit, i done a few pics on removal and some points, ie you can change the chamber without removing the manifold and the wastegate part of it,, also one pic shows the turbo oil pipe has a glue on it to prevent the head moving if it moves when removing the 17mm bolts chances are it will leak after so important tip glue it before undoing it, another pic shows the very small location pin ITS IMPORTANT TO GENTLE TAP THE PARTS APART WITHOUT TURNING THEM TO AVOID DAMAGING THE LOCATING PIN,
and the biggest bit really is this and note to self NEXT TIME FIND A DAMAGED ENGINE LIKE THIS DONT BE TIGHT AND JUST DO THE TURBO ANYWAY BUT OWN CAR AND WIFE'S REMINDERS OF HOW MUCH LOL,
the good news is it sounds great and engine runs well
 

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Discussion Starter #33
new turbo chamber arrived today and has the testing print out as well for balancing looks totally same as stock one time will tell once its run in and engine is run in and i put on the rollers the paperwork has turbo Technics on it whether its really is of not who knows, next job is to fit and prime it run it for a hour on idle i always do this let them heat up slowly no pressure on them for a good hour then after that i will put front back on car let cool down then do same again nice all back together let idle for hour before increasing the revs to 2000 then a road short road test check for leaks etc then after this its run it in for 500 miles at least under 3000 revs all this just gives the turbo and engine the max chance of bedding in,
 

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Discussion Starter #34
turbo back on below pic show easy way to put back together car has been run for a hour with front on it to make sure no leaks so far so good ,, thats really good tip dont put front back until you know its all ok as its a proper pain to put back together and find a oil leak as so many do, my glue the banjo worked a treat no oil leak etc,, now on to the next job sort out a misfire when cold on first start up might be high pressure fuel pump but will stick injection cleaner and seafoam mixed in the fuel line just before the high pressure pump then run it for a while sport of neat dose hopefully will clean it if its a dirt related problem, if not i got a guy who refurbs them for around £140 better than secondhand ones and so much cheaper than new,, will also remove inlet manifold to check not got broken breather pipe somewhere as i'm thinking it might be that
 

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Discussion Starter #35
the xmas gift that juts keeps giving feel so blessed hmmmmmm maybe not, so all back together and engine sounds like a new one and turbo now boosts right away,,, but i get on start up a misfire and very rich running and fault code P2880 how yes the high pressure fuel pump is my final present,,, what i am going to try first off is i have bought injection cleaner techron stuff works really well even more so when ad half can of seafoam and both these to 1/4 tank of fuel then run it as hard as you dare,, i have done this a few times now and have live data run them and could see the injector readings change as it cleans out the dirt,, so fingers crossed this will sort it,,, if not then its either a brand new genuine one from Peugeot for £318 or i will prob send it off and have it reconditioned for £139
refurb link
new one
 

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Discussion Starter #36
last update on this thread fixed the turbo boost issues was oil had leaked from pcv valve union down on to the vac expansion tank under and the rubber end had gone soft and swelled and caused vac leak, cable ties on small vac pipes , new end fitted sealant used on pcv union cured now boosts goes very well once running but like said before the high pressure fuel pump p2880 and cold starts badly ie took 10 minutes to get it to start form cold again today so high pressure fuel pump removed and sent off for rebuild £139 plus postage,, think last owner just kept driving it with pump faulty engine never had a chance,, really foolish t keep driving them with faulty fuelling its a engine killer,
below link for rebuild guy i promise you he's really on the ball very helpful and not greedy deffo cheaper than the £960 ocean bmw wanted for a new one
 

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Discussion Starter #37
finally today car all mapped ran a gentle map first off for 1000 miles while letting engine bed in and turbo etc, 206bhp at wheels will at later date push it see what can be got from it,, what did find is a very common problem with the n14 and n18 engines where the rocker cover pcv valve fails as this one has and when engine hot and being driven 3-4k then take foot of throttle down hill and at bottom get a cloud of smoke from exhaust is due to oil being sucked in the crankcase breather on inlet manifold under number one inlet port,, this if not sorted will end up blowing the piston apart again so this is main issue for engine failure in first place ie the piston damage,, hope all this helps others to under stand these engines better
 

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Discussion Starter #38
catch can with sponge filter inset fitted car not run in yet zero crankcase breathing no rattles just idles perfect even the rear pcv valve pipe insides is bone dry really good sign of good piston ring seal that,, let it get up to temps found runs at 103c uphill 3k revs then at top of hill drops to 80c within seconds then builds back up again so thermo housing my next job, for first 5 miles at 2k revs then increased to 3000 revs for another 25 miles and the last 5 miles i decided it was having it ie revs to 6k some of the time manly 4k to 5k 3rd and 4th gears to force heat in exhaust burn out the oil from past owners blow up and the 20 miles he drove running on 3 cylinders and leaving oil screen behind him,, anyway finally now zero smoke pulls like a train on full chat between 5000 to 6500 it throws traction control warning lamp on as tyres cant cope finally all sorted,, will leave a few months and then give back to black magic performance centre and map it higher at mo its running 206bhp at wheels think can hit around 230-240bhp before to much melts, but to be honest 206 bhp and its mapped for torque mid range is very stable and usable
 
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So this is an S with JCW parts?

Even 230-240bhp at the wheels for the JCW would be good ;).

Did you use engine running in oil with the fresh rebuild?

What engine oil are you using now with this rebuilt engine?

With my catch can, I'm am using stainless steel washing wool at the bottom of the catch can as I've read sponge filters will breakdown in the catch can.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
cooper s with jcw trim red half leather and 18 inch wheels etc, as early ones were just add on as such,
what done on my catch can is only need one on turbo side of breather as after 100 miles and a few good hidings the rear breather is bone dry and zero breathing now think those n18 piston rings have worked a treat so far time will tell,
on catch can use a big square one and use a foam filter a hot tub sponge type with a rubber pipe fitted to the inside to channel the breathing to bottom of can so the only way it can breath is through the filter sponge,upwards already its caught some moisture residue,, see people think its the breather that is at fault when they drag oil in to the inlet manifold and smoke on over runs,, it not its the more down to piston blow past and high crankcase pressures due to wear.. as all n14 engines i have rebuilt with older type rings all would breath a bit, where this one i used the latest piston rings as fitted to n18 and b series bmw engines the compression rings at black hardened and oil ring is a single nylon/metal coated singe double edged ring as such,,, i used a mineral 5/30 oil with 1/4 can of seafoam in it then run car normal gentle for 100 miles, then was stuck on dyno 7 runs and altered the fuelling for the decat and iron out any flat spots and raised the rev limit by 500 revs so now at top end when vanos comes in it comes in hard ,, after that run it around normal for another 100 miles or so as was working out why it smoked on over run when it got really hot ie 104c hmmm i have ordered some components to add the dial in the car that can foul the temp sensor and decrease the running temps down under 100c ie fan in at 102c is my aim and also to be able to switch the fan on full by turning the dial to the max so can control what it runs at,, ie get it to run lower temps on coolant and oil will help combustion ie cooler is more dense etc then i have a twice the size inter cooler to stick on before pushing it higher..also the ecu will fuel t accordingly so done 300 miles changed the oil yesterday and sorted out a slight oil leak from sump sealer so dropped sump checked it for metal particles in the bottom totally clear so all seams well,, decided to put 5/40w fully synthetic in it,, so this will at start up have same thickness as 5/30 but gives a more stable oil at temps over 100c is slightly thicker,,, ie mini's in hot country's do use 5.40w fully syn,, the 300 miles of sort of running in but not really as i'm a believer in run for 100 miles then give them some more grief ,, old guy who rebuilt engines always said that,, so this thing has been been up at rev limiter a fair bit since and is just running really nice no rattles or vibrations all way to red line,, 3rd gear foot to floor the front ends lifts up and torque steers from 3k to red line, not very good for keeping a clean licence
 
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