[nate78]

Exactly where on the hub is the abs ring? I'm replacing the front two but can't see where it Is, thanks

 

[SeanC]

It's not a ring, more like a magnetic disk on the end of the hub bearing case. The sensor drops in via the top of the hub carrier

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[JohnnyC]

This is what it looks like (can see the sensor too)...

 

[nate78]

Thank you

 

[nate78]

Just what I needed, thanks again

 

[Dcarter]

Can this cause the light sequence with the abs, tcs to stay on and low tyre pressure light to come on when pulling away

 

[JohnnyC]

Can this cause the light sequence with the abs, tcs to stay on and low tyre pressure light to come on when pulling away

Yes.

 

[Dcarter]

Thanks, I changed the sensor, and am still getting the warnings, I’ll get it on diagnostics again tomorrow. If it still shows the same fault I’ll change the whole bearing

 

[Dcarter]

So update..... after a long time fault finding in case anyone has the same issue.

The abs sensor coupling that joins to the loom had an issue. We had to cut this section out and then solder the cables together. Problem fixed in 5 mins. Only 3 days of fault finding to find it!!!
Still don’t actually know if the old sensor was faulty as we had to drill the old one out. That’s was another whole nervous story.

 

[RobMorgan]

Dcarter, are you referring to the (usually) blue plastic cased plug around 1-2ft away from the sensor? I have an annoying fault that won't go away. I checked the plugs for cleanliness and corrosion, and all seems OK.
If I stick a multimeter on the main harness at the pump, will that show faulty circuits as open? Or does it not work like that? I'm new to electrical fault finding 😬 my multimeter wouldn't fit in the plug on the sensor side, as it was too deep for both prongs!

 

[Dcarter]

Dcarter, are you referring to the (usually) blue plastic cased plug around 1-2ft away from the sensor? I have an annoying fault that won't go away. I checked the plugs for cleanliness and corrosion, and all seems OK.
If I stick a multimeter on the main harness at the pump, will that show faulty circuits as open? Or does it not work like that? I'm new to electrical fault finding 😬 my multimeter wouldn't fit in the plug on the sensor side, as it was too deep for both prongs!

Yeah, exactly that. I have removed that connection and just done a straight solder. It will mean I have to do the same if it goes again but it’s just one of those things.
I think it is a strange one as the circuit is always there because it reads the speed. It’s not just as simple as an open close circuit. Like “light on or off” when you open a door

 

[mike1967]

Dcarter, are you referring to the (usually) blue plastic cased plug around 1-2ft away from the sensor? I have an annoying fault that won't go away. I checked the plugs for cleanliness and corrosion, and all seems OK.
If I stick a multimeter on the main harness at the pump, will that show faulty circuits as open? Or does it not work like that? I'm new to electrical fault finding 😬 my multimeter wouldn't fit in the plug on the sensor side, as it was too deep for both prongs!

abs sensor is a hall effect type, the the sensor and the abs ring generate its own electric from the spinning of the road wheels,, so multimeter on micro volts across the sensor and spin wheel is how can check they generate electric,, but will need a scope or a diagnostic tool that counts the pulses to know if all 4 read the same as they should all read same at same road speed,

 

[RobMorgan]

Any tips for getting a multimeter on the terminals? I can't get both of mine to reach at the same time, as the blue housing isn't big enough.
Was I right in saying I can check continuity at the main wiring harness for breaks, to see if there are any major breaks?

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