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Discussion Starter #21
Interested as well if you ever worked out what this was? Have the same thing on my drivers side front sensor. Diagnostic machine shows it as faulty, zero live data from it. Thinking it could be the wiring harness.
Perfect! Cheers. Have bought an ATE branded one to replace it. See if that makes a difference instead of the cheap eBay one I acquired! Will serve me right for being cheap if it is just a crap sensor!

Yes - all it was, was the replacement sensors. Replaced them again with Delphi parts and they have been perfect since!
Have acquired an ATE sensor from eurocar parts instead of the cheap eBay sensor I tried! Fingers crossed it was just the cheap sensor being duff as well...

Best of luck. I like I say - never had the slightest problem since replacing the cheapo sensors.
 

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Just an update on my issue. After having to drill out the old sensor because it snapped on trying to remove it happy to report the ATE sensor worked perfect. 20yd drive after swapping it lights are out and haven't came back on in about 30-40 mile so far.
 

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HI Guys

I am new to this forum stuff - straight to the point

I have a 2004 Mini Cooper with ASC - i have the normal ABS, Tyre Pressure and handbrake light on

(Chassis TG44681)

now when i took it to the BWM specialist to see what the problem was - he told me the ABS is no good, so i brought another one from ebay - and that did not work either " no communication" on the scanner (hes got all bmw tools)

now when he checked the wiring diagram for this vehicle (which he got from BMW) it did not match to the car - eventually after looking around he managed to find the correct MAP for the Wiring and realised this is ASC + T - and gave me another part number - when i brought him another ABS unit it turned out that it is not a 47 pin connector - (waste of money)

he has checked all the wiring all the relay etc.. but still cannot program the ABS to the car

parts i have used so far

34 51 6 765 324 - which is actually 34 51 6 765 325 - not 47pin connector
34 51 6 765 283 - which is actually 34 51 6 765 284 -

both are showing "no communication" but he said i dont understand its showing me everything but its not communicating

car has been with him for 3 months and getting no where -

kindly someone help
 

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Ok in my experience there are two different ABS units one has ASC/DSC and an ABS system and the other has an ABS but no ASC function. The ASC plus ABS has a much larger plug/connector because it uses more sensors. What happened to your original ABS? I have found that the main fault with the ABS is the pump. The electronic system is very reliable. The ABS unit consists of two parts, the pump and the electronic section. These are held together by a couple of bolts. The two halves can be easily separated. So see if you can locate your original ABS. The electronic section is programmed to your vehicle. It doesn't care which pump it's connected to. Most likely your original ABS pump has seized hence the lights. It's easy to see. Pull the pump motor off the aluminium block and you can see the pump. It has two pistons either side held together by a metal C ring. The pump motor drives an eccentric cam which pushes the pistons alternately. The pistons can seize and stop the pump motor. So fit the original electronic box to the replacement ABS aluminium block. The old block must match the new one you bought from Ebay. It may be that the one you bought from Ebay has a seized piston so if that's the case it's no use fitting it unless you get the pump pistons freed up. The pump motor usually comes out easily complete with cam so you can check the pistons are free. I usually fill the cavity where the cam sits with some grease to prevent the pistons seizing again. You may be able to do this with your original pump. When reassembling the motor/cam into the pump cavity you will need to move the pistons to match the position of the cam otherwise they wont go together. Put the whole lot back in the vehicle ie. old electronics/replacement pump. The system must be bled until the brakes are not spongy which may require the BMW computer to activate the pistons in the ABS to allow full beed to happen. The lights will not go out with the replacement unit for at least 2 or 3 substantial trips of at least 4 or 5 K. If you don't understand this show it to your mechanic.
 
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