MINI Cooper Forum banner

Advise needed on a 2008 Cooper S

870 Views 47 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  ExclusiveWorkshops
Good morning Ladies and Gents,

I have posted this also in the new members area as i am completely new to this forum so Hello 馃榿.

So i am new to the mini world and as per the the title i am in need of a little help. So i have now just bought a mini through Copart as a project to put on my YouTube channel. So as you can imagine i currently don't know to much about the car as it is coming tomorrow but all i know is the reason it was them on a auction was due to mechanical that is all the sheet said. So i was hoping you amazing people could give me some info on the common problems of what i could be looking at. It is a 2008 Cooper S which does run and drive. But i am thinking it has to be something a bit big to be not repaired and instead sent to Copart so as much information on the types of problems would be amazing.

My friend who used to be in the mini world said that it could be valves due to them being clogged with carbon. I believe he said about a cylinder issue also.

Thank you very much for taking the time to give me some advise of what to look for prior to the car coming and if you want to see the mini projects journey stay tuned to my YouTube channel as i will be doing lots to it :).


Thanks very much Ladies and Gents.

P.S i am in the UK and not Spain like my profile says 馃槀馃ぃ. I have no idea why it has done that or how i can change it so that is also another question 馃榿.

Sparrow
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Hello Guys and Girls,

So i now have the Mini. She had a flat battery so we managed to jump start her and she ran like a bag of spanners. To me it sounds like she is running on 3 cylinders so spark plugs will be on order as regardless i will do a full service. I will read the codes when i have charged the battery or got a new one but i couldn't hear any chain rattle which was lovely to know but when i took of the oil cap it did have some gunk in there but it seems the car has sat for a long time.

Any thoughts on the rough running problem?

Sparrow
ho cooper s bought from a car breaker and running on 3 cylinders , would do compression test on that first off the bat, also brake man jump starting one of these with a dead battery seen so many with spiked ecu's due to that, best practice is fit a good new battery if battery is older than around 5 years its on going to be on last legs, cooper s has a habit of breaking pistons next to gearbox end of motor as seen a fair few with the skirt blown out that sort of look ok from the top, misfuelling and lean running kills them off only takes a coil pack or plug or injector to break down can cause such issues so can running to hot as well ,, deffo compression test , then a smoke test inlet pipes and pcv valve and pipe ,, can send smoke direct to the rocker cover oil filler pap hole check for any smoke leaks anywhere,, it should be sealed
how have you isolated chain noise from the general description of 'bag of spanners'?

a car out of a salvage yard that you don't know, or any spares/repairs car, maybe leak test it and at the very least get the cam timing tools on it as well as scanning, saving and clearing codes before a re-scan to see what you're left with, and I'd check the coolant is at a level and bled fwiw
And here the box of chocalates have arrived be interesting to find out what is wrong all together,but sorry it dont sound cheap hope you are lucky.I was very lucky with mine ask mike but still cost a small fortune to get it to work better lol
Hey guys,

Thanks very much for the messages. So I have purchased a new battery as advised and read the codes. Which I got a PO300 which is a multiple misfire a PO301 cylinder 1 misfire and lastly a PO302 Cylinder 2. So I did try the and swapping the coils over but after clearing the codes at first the engine light is now off, still misfiring and it hasn't kicked up any codes so I can't see if the code has moved to Cylinder 3 and 4.

I am going to put a compression tester on order tonight for delivery tomorrow.
Does it smoke when ideling after anout 20 mins may be piston tings timing chain cat o2 sensors etc the other guys on here will advise better than me as i was one who bought one then had to take it mike to sort out had loads of issues on mine due to previous owners neglect or garage covering up some serious shit l assume you bought it cheaply from copart :)
Hey guys,



Thanks very much for the messages. So I have purchased a new battery as advised and read the codes. Which I got a PO300 which is a multiple misfire a PO301 cylinder 1 misfire and lastly a PO302 Cylinder 2. So I did try the and swapping the coils over but after clearing the codes at first the engine light is now off, still misfiring and it hasn't kicked up any codes so I can't see if the code has moved to Cylinder 3 and 4.

I am going to put a compression tester on order tonight for delivery tomorrow.

I'm not to worried with this as I wanted a project for my YouTube channel. So let's get this car fixed lol.
Does it smoke when ideling after anout 20 mins may be piston tings timing chain cat o2 sensors etc the other guys on here will advise better than me as i was one who bought one then had to take it mike to sort out had loads of issues on mine due to previous owners neglect or garage covering up some serious shit l assume you bought it cheaply from copart :)
Yeah so wanted to buy a project so bought it cheap from Copart as a U and for the reason it has that was described as mechanical.
Hey Guys,

So i have done a compression test and all cylinders are running 210 pressure so the engine is good. I have pulled out a spark plug and checked all coils to see if i am getting a spark which i am. So now all i can think is that it must be fuel. So i can only think that Injector 1 and 2 are down?
Maybe check the timing is also correct before chucking actul parts at it :unsure:
Maybe check the timing is also correct before chucking actul parts at it :unsure:
Thanks for the message how can i do this?
as suggested in post #4

timing tools required, turn motor to position, lock crank, set tools on to see how they lay, should be like this

Motor vehicle Auto part Automotive air manifold Automotive exterior Automotive super charger part
See less See more
So all i need to get in the crank tool below to check to see if the timing is correct.

Its a start to see what is wrong to see if there is any wear on the chain
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Its a start to see what is wrong to see if there is any wear on the chain
OK I will get that on order. From looking at it you don't have to do much more to change the chain so might as well do that also.
Also i think most recomend doing lower chain for oil pump too and if your that far in maybe psiton rings and bearings to future proof it also valve stems but your choice if you search on here throgh mike1967 and some of excluisive works stuff they both have the same knowledge on these issues (y)
  • Like
Reactions: 1
From looking at it you don't have to do much more to change the chain so might as well do that also.
you have to also remove the top engine bracket, the second bracket to head, the friction wheel, vibration damper, three guide bolts, support the enigne etc, remove sump, clear oil pick up, and should be changing the pump chain also, and the front main seal, then the Vanos also if inclined, personally I don't usually but depends on existing symptoms and fault codes/history etc

there are better tools than those but for the money they're better than nothing

you also need a 27mm spanner, and socket, torx sockets male and female, and torque wrenches as well as suitable breaker bar

if aiming to remove and split/check the oil pump I'd encourage loosening the pump's sprocket bolt before the main crank bolt, note that all sprocket bolts 'must' be renewed

also the front main seal must remain dry, new or old, it is ptfe with no support spring behind it, so also needs time to reform is misshapen during work, better renewed

to get a better go at the tensioner it is better to remove the Vanos solenoid

and when doing this work it it better to check and clean the solenoid anyway, also the non return/oil control valve, as well as check cam journals and rectangrings
See less See more
dont forget the devil is in the detail when doing these,, when doing everything up I have my own process been using it for many years now and since i have not had any slip out of time when doing the stretch part of the bolts,,
ie i set the timing all spockets loose to rotate, either use preload tool for tensioner or its possible to set timing without the preload tool and just use the tensioner,, so with tensioner in or chain preloaded,, i will do crank bolt first ,, ie 50nm plus 180 degrees, i then do up the exhaust camshaft 20nm plus 180 degrees while holding it with 27mm spanner on end of camshaft,,,DO NOT USE CAM LOCKS TO HOLD CAMSHAFT WHILE DOING THEM UP ,, WILL DAMGE LOCKS AND EFFECT TIMING,,, I then repeat this on inlet camshaft,, I always put new oil seal for crank in before offering the hub to it and fitting chain etc, this all said if keeping car for a long while I would just do all they need and not just chain, sort out stem seals and rings then go enjoy it for a number of years,
See less See more
Thank you so much everyone for all the comments.

So from what you have all said to replace the chain and bits from what i have seen i need to follow this video am i right?

But you also recommend to drop the sump and clean the oil pick up?
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top