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On the Tappen Zee daily
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am putting my deposit on a MINI Cooper S Convertible next week, with delivery due in February.

I have $30,000 to spend on it before tax. I am thinking of going with:

Black paint with black roof: $0
Premium Package: $1350
Sports Package: $1350
Cold Weather Package: $300
Chrome line exterior: $250
Cordoba Beige leather seats: $1300
Cordoba mats, brake cover, and shift knob: $234
Driving Lamps: $600

Should I add anything else? Remove anything? Black is a rare color in NJ - lots of reds and silvers. Will the Beige leather get really dirty? I know black shows dirty, but my dealership in NJ offers free car washes. Thanks alot for your feedback, and I'll post a ton of pics in February.

Petey
 

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Sounds awesome! I thought the driving lights were $400 (or is it $200 to install?). I'd also recommend the Whalen shift knob for $130 - $150 depending on whether you get custom engraving. It will look stunning in the car.

-- eagerly awaiting our CB MCSC in December :)
 

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its all good
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thats about it

i have the hot orange m/c with just about the same equipment, i added the zenons, chrono pkg and ended up at 26770. i had a 2004 ly/ly 'S', but dont miss it, getting 30mpg is more important, along with the 16" performance tires. i'm sure the zenons come with the 'S' and skip the chrono pkg, enjoy that bad boy!!!! i have had zero problems!!!!
 

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Sounds good. Make sure you get the Universal Garage Opener. A bit pricey but not having remotes is well worth it. Are you getting the 17 inch Bullets? I love the look of mine. I hope you have an indentured servant to keep that black spotless.

Mike
 

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fun fun fun!
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hey
first off that sorta stinks that you ahev to wait till feb to get the car.
arent the prices raised?
Where did you order the car? Mawha? (i tihnk i spelt that wrong)
and also.. is the garage opener a dealer thing? can i get it after the car comes? and will it work with " Rolling code garage door openers?"
Thanks
 

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Garage door opener is built into the rear view mirror (w/ auto dim feature). Yes, it will work with rolling code openers.
 

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Be aware that MSRP increases soon for cars deliverd after Jan. '01 ($500 or so). Plus, I think some of the options are slightly more expensive. Driving lights are $400, but apparently are a real PITA to install (up to 4 hours) with some people paying close to $1000 for a set of dealer-installed driving lights (yes, honestly; do a search).
 

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How depressing...

Well, first off, congrats on your MCS Convertible!!

The depressing part is that I made my deposit for an MCS (hard-top) on May 22nd. That's 160 days ago. (But who's counting?) I have yet to get to the top of the queue, just to place my order. Estimated wait for delivery was quoted as 9 to 11 months, so I'm only half way there.

And on top of that, now I hear that prices are going up after Jan 1. Grrrrrrrr....
 

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On the Tappen Zee daily
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The lights are like $300 to install. Tell me more about the Whalen knob - the chrome knob is so cold! I didn't think the 17" tires (I'm think ing of ordering the 17" S-lite all seasons) rode to harshly - but if there is no perceivable difference in performance I'll go with the 16" because they are less expensive to replace. I'm ordering the car at Prestige Mini in Mahwah (they offer free car washes for life - so no fear of dirty black - I can go every day, I live 10 minutes away) - I also drove the Acura RSX, Audi TT, and three Mazdas - Mazda3 hatch, Mazdaspeed Miate, and RX-8. I liked the mini, and their sales crew and show room better than any of these (though if the TT was the same price and a bit larger it would be close!)
Prestige has a 2 to 3 month wait on convertibles (1 to 2 months on tin tops) with no mark up save a $200 doc fee and the stupid new $1.50 NJ tire tax. I didn't know the price was being jacked up in January - I figured 05 model is 05 model is 05 model.
 

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You can check out the Whalen at their site. or do a search in the forums. As a shift replacement it is much better weighted to improve the feel of the shift plus it looks very good. There are a couple of threads where people have shown off their designs. To a person, there's been nothing but rave reviews for Whalen. (Also if you order by end of the month, er, tomorrow) he's providing shipping and engraving at no cost. I ordered a shift knob for my new MCSC coming this Dec.

I don't think you can get 16" w/ sports package from the factory. Your dealer might be willing to trade wheels however. I had planned on going 16" myself, but after testing the 17"s ended up ordering the sports pkg because I like the bullit wheel style. I went with performance vs. all season tires because the reviews of the Eagle RS-A are not very good. The Dunlop Sport 9000's seem to be a much better tire. My only concern is that I end up with the Pirelli's. If that's the case I will beg and plead w/ my MA to swap with Dunlops before I pick up the car.

Price is going up $500 Jan 1 was what my MA told me. The price increase is even for people who ordered in 04 -- if you complete the purchase starting 1/1/05 you will pay $500 more.
 

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I've got the driving lights on my list of accessories for the dealer to add to my baby, but after hearing the install cost factor I'm thinking twice. Any other recommendations for aftermarket, along with costs and ease of install? Would love to hear some feedback and see some pics!

And back to the post at hand... Petey, the cordoba beige will look exceptional with the black! If I could get myself to do another black car, I would definitely go with that combo.
 

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05HB said:
Well, first off, congrats on your MCS Convertible!!

The depressing part is that I made my deposit for an MCS (hard-top) on May 22nd. That's 160 days ago. (But who's counting?) I have yet to get to the top of the queue, just to place my order. Estimated wait for delivery was quoted as 9 to 11 months, so I'm only half way there.

And on top of that, now I hear that prices are going up after Jan 1. Grrrrrrrr....
Dude,

Get your deposit back and check out a few out of state dealers and you will be driving your Mini in no time. I used Moritz in Texas for my Cabrio and had NO wait list - just production time. Classic Mini is another dealer that gets rave reviews. Patience is not a virtue when it comes to Motorin' time! :D

Mike
 

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Welcome to MINI2!

If you clean the leather often, it probably won't get too dirty, depends on how much dirt you collect yourself I suppose. Personally, I think $1300 is overpriced for the leather, but many people like it, so if you want leather go for it. I also think $600 is overpriced for driving lamps, given that if you live somewhere populated like NJ, and have Xenons, the high beams are pretty bright unless you're somewhere, really, really dark. Though most people seem to get them for looks, not performance.

You might want to check out the Chrome interior, its very nice, in my view.

The best showcase of Whalens is: http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42882

If you have a garage door, I agree, the opener is nice, albeit a bit pricey, but you'll use it every day.

I also like the auto dimming mirror/rain sensing wipers, which will become the convience pack by the time you get to order. Not very expensive, certainly a gadget, but then you don't worry about glare from SUVs and when it rains the wipers always wipe perfectly.
 

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2phun said:
I've got the driving lights on my list of accessories for the dealer to add to my baby, but after hearing the install cost factor I'm thinking twice. Any other recommendations for aftermarket, along with costs and ease of install? Would love to hear some feedback and see some pics!

And back to the post at hand... Petey, the cordoba beige will look exceptional with the black! If I could get myself to do another black car, I would definitely go with that combo.
IMHO the driving lights are expensive, and don't work very well, at least on the dealer model I test drove. Save yourself some money, for about $400 and a Saturday afternoon, and evening (the fun part) you can have exceptional driving lights. It will also give your MINI a really aggressive look.

Get a light bar kit from someplace like Moss Motors .... $150 www.mossmotors.com

A set of Cibie Driving lights for above the lightbar, I would suggest the TANGO or OSCAR (these are classic rally lights) ... $90 ea from Daniel Stern Lighting www.danielsternlighting.com/...s/products.html

Also from Daniel Stern Lighting a relay harness ... $45

Radio shack for some 12 gauge twisted wire in black and red & a few crimp on connectors and tie wraps if you don't have any, I would also look at the plastic loom (a split sheath to run wires through will make the installation really nice ... about $20 or so

The Cibie (Pronounced C-B-A) lights are some of the best quality lights you can get, along with HELLA. They beat the crap out of the junk you usually find in automotive departments, and serious rallyists use this quality of lighting. If you get the Fogs, mount them below the bar to keep the light and cutoff area as low as possible.

Then comes the fun Saturday night part. Drive your little baby out into the country and find a long straight dark road. Ideally you would like to have a reflectorized stop signs on the road at 1 mile away. This is a snap in the Midwest where everything is on land grant 1 mile squares. Disconnect power from one light, and aim the other light so it makes the stop sign glow. This will keep your lights aimed slightly right to be nice to oncoming traffic, but you are still going to tear their retinas out! When that light is set, lock it down, disconnect power, and power up the other light. Aim it in the same manner. Now you have some driving lights. I like to wire them so that I can have them full on at any time or switch with the high-beams.
It is a simple wiring set up.

So I would save the $600 and for about $400 make your MINI Shine :cool:
 

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Leather, Wheels, Etc.

I have the beige leather seats in my 02 Cooper and have really liked them. My car is Indi Blue and the beige goes well with it and with Black, IMO. I did have to have the driver's seat back replaced due to unusual wear but it was covered by the warranty. I am going to sell my 17" Bullet wheels as soon as my car is delivered only because I want a different look and lighter weight. I agree that the driving lights are overpriced. UGDO is an option I selected on my Cabrio along with the rain sensing wipers and auto dimming mirror. Also went with the leather heated seats for those cold top down days. Black/tan is one of my favorite combos but I went with Red/Black interior as a favor to my better half. She loves red!
 

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Thanks for the lights input, phoggberg. Think I'll definitely take your advice on them. Any chance you might have plans for the wiring you did? I'm a bit of a novice with that kind of stuff, but usually am pretty quick to get it if I have some guidelines.
 

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Fog/Driving Light Hookup (long)

2phun said:
Thanks for the lights input, phoggberg. Think I'll definitely take your advice on them. Any chance you might have plans for the wiring you did? I'm a bit of a novice with that kind of stuff, but usually am pretty quick to get it if I have some guidelines.
Well, It might be a bit different in the MCC, seeing the switches really run through the ECU but with normal switching it is pretty easy. This is kind of difficult to do without a schematic, but I'll try. You will need to locate 4 circuits in the car, a voltmeter, or circuit tester (just a 12V light bulb with a and a sharp end, and alligator clip on a wire lead is all that it is) will make this easier. Note: these circuits can be low current sources, as you should be switching a relay (300 mA), and not the lights directly( 10 Amps). You will need a good ground, +12V (I prefer switched with the ignition so when it is off the Lights kill too), +12V from the Parking Light Circuit, and +12V from the High-beam Circuit (in previous installs I have used the wire going to the hi-beam indicator. Next you want a single pole double pole center off switch (SPDT) for each major circuit (one for driving lights, one for fogs). These switches have three terminals, and you wire them as follows: ( I tried drawing a schematic of sorts but on preview it didn't work so please excuse this text only explanation)

If you look at the back of a SPDT Center off toggle switch, you will see that it has three lugs. Connect the center lug to the input side of the relay controlling the lights (more about this later) I usually connect the High-beam driven circuit to the bottom lug, so that when the switch is in the up position the driving lights are switched with the dip switch. Connect the parking light or switched 12V circuit to the top lug. its that simple. You will note that you are hooking the switch up backwards from conventional use -- it won't hurt anything, its just these switches are generally used to power one of two item from a common power source, and we are powering one thing from one of two power sources. Use parking light as the source for foglights, not switched ignition, if you are going to use fog lights properly you should have the running lights on as well at the fogs for safety reasons.

A comment on the Driving light circuit:
If you use ignition switched circuit then you can run them with just the ignition on the accessory circuit, so when you take the keys out, the lights go off. If you use the parking light circuit, when you turn your lights off the driving lights kill, but some cars allow you to leave the parking lights on with the ignition off, and these can really drain the battery if you forget to turn them off.

A Comment on the Fog light circuit:
Modern cars that have fog lights usually require you to have the headlights on. I think that good fog lights, properly aimed work better in fog, torrential rain, and heavy snow without the headlights on, because with the sharp cutoff they are more effective in just lighting the roadway. I wire them so I can turn off the main headlamps and still leave the fogs on with my running lights for driving in these conditions.

The high-beam side of the circuit allows you to control the light with your dip switch, and is convenient when killing the lights for on-coming traffic, or going into a control. Even though the circuits are only powering relays, i still fuse the circuits with a 0.5 or 1Amp fuse, this circuit usually draws only about 300mA.

When wiring the driving/fog lights, each light should be on its own contact and fused for 10 or 15 Amps and driven directly from the battery. Use 10A for up to 90W lights and 15A for over 90 W lights. Use 12 ga multi-strand hook up wires and run a ground wire from the light to a good ground point inside the car away from the elements (under the bonnet you should find several goo grounding points) Normally the lights use their attachment to the car as their ground point, but this can corrode over time due to the elements, so I always run a separate grounding wire to a solid ground.

Do not run the lights directly off the switches, but through the relays So assuming you are driving only two fogs or two driving lights (a relay for each type) you want a DPST 12VDC relay. Wire the output from the switch to one side of the coil, and the other side to ground. Hook a separate fused line to one side of the switched contacts, and the power to the light on the other side. Then when the relay is pulled in the lights go on.

On the MINI I haven't learned the right place to mount the switches, on other cars they usually give you a blank for some switched function, and so I buy a DPST switch from the parts dept, or fabricate one from another source, to try and make it look built in. In one extreme case I built my own switch panel, but I was controlling 5 separate light circuits. Perhaps others on this site might help with this, or when I get my MCC I'll have a better idea.

Hope this helps
 
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