I'd quickly swap the sensors around and see if the fault moves to exhaust....
Camshaft sensor
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
That would depend on how often you get those codes. Where they there when you first diagnosed it?
Did you erase the codes and see if they appear again. The Camshaft sensor is pretty accurate. And does not really need to be changed out. you may have a problem with the intake camshaft timing. Or some type of debris covering over the sensor.
I would pull the valve cover off. Then at that point put a flywheel pin in and the camlocks over the camshafts and check that the timing is dead nuts on first.
flywheel pin and camlocks only take about twenty minutes at most. 10mm wrench and some...
Puts the valve cover gasket back on without any leaks.
Did you erase the codes and see if they appear again. The Camshaft sensor is pretty accurate. And does not really need to be changed out. you may have a problem with the intake camshaft timing. Or some type of debris covering over the sensor.
I would pull the valve cover off. Then at that point put a flywheel pin in and the camlocks over the camshafts and check that the timing is dead nuts on first.
flywheel pin and camlocks only take about twenty minutes at most. 10mm wrench and some...
Puts the valve cover gasket back on without any leaks.
That would depend on how often you get those codes. Where they there when you first diagnosed it?
Did you erase the codes and see if they appear again. The Camshaft sensor is pretty accurate. And does not really need to be changed out. you may have a problem with the intake camshaft timing. Or some type of debris covering over the sensor.
I would pull the valve cover off. Then at that point put a flywheel pin in and the camlocks over the camshafts and check that the timing is dead nuts on first.
flywheel pin and camlocks only take about twenty minutes at most. 10mm wrench and some...
Puts the valve cover gasket back on without any leaks.
thank you. I tried to scan again with another OBD 2 scanner again. It revealed as follow. Then I replaced camshaft sensor and cleared the codes. The pending one is off and current one remains. The engine light is still on. Why can’t I clear all codes and make engine light off? Plz give me some suggestion.That would depend on how often you get those codes. Where they there when you first diagnosed it?
Did you erase the codes and see if they appear again. The Camshaft sensor is pretty accurate. And does not really need to be changed out. you may have a problem with the intake camshaft timing. Or some type of debris covering over the sensor.
I would pull the valve cover off. Then at that point put a flywheel pin in and the camlocks over the camshafts and check that the timing is dead nuts on first.
flywheel pin and camlocks only take about twenty minutes at most. 10mm wrench and some...
Puts the valve cover gasket back on without any leaks.
the code wont clear until fixed the problem , the code points at a circuit problem wiring or sensor or ecu problem is where would be looking, the code will not reset until fault is cured as self check on car ecu is seeing a permanent problem.thank you. I tried to scan again with another OBD 2 scanner again. It revealed as follow. Then I replaced camshaft sensor and cleared the codes. The pending one is off and current one remains. The engine light is still on. Why can’t I clear all codes and make engine light off? Plz give me some suggestion.
View attachment 279619
yea that is right right. follow the code read the problem that the code gives. Like that brake light I had one. on the gauge cluster it just says brake and in read no less not brake in orange which is he lesser offense light; not very specific. Where as something like camshaft sensor. You follow it exactly as stated on the code. Simple circuit problem. without divination from that makes the problem easier to find.
Was your timing alright! Hope you figured it out that engine sure does look clean. Wonder if it is the 120 horsepower version. They are all upgradable.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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