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Discussion Starter #1
Over the past few weeks I've had a problem in heavy traffic. If I hold the clutch pedal down for a long time, the clutch slowly engages with the engine and I have to grab neutral to stop the car moving forwards. I then have to lift the pedal back up to its original position manually and then it all works fine again, with the biting point where it should be.

I could deal with this for a while, but now the clutch has decided it doesn't want to play anymore. Pressing the pedal down does not disengage the clutch, and I still have to manually pull it to the "up" position when trying. i.e. I can't drive the car at all unless I start the engine in 1st gear and do clutchless changes, which is not ideal.

I've spent all day bleeding it, but it has made no difference - I can't disengage the clutch.

Any ideas?:confused:

Thanks
 

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A Total Mini Convert
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923 Posts
Faulty master/Slave clutch cylinder? Could be the seals gone and the fluid is leaking by
 

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It certainly sounds like the hydralics. Probably the master cylinder, because if the slave cylinder leaked, the fluid will be lost. The master cylinder can leak back into the reservoir.

Many years ago, on what is now called a classic mini, my wife had this happen several times, although it used to happen suddenly with a clutch that wouldn't disengage at all.

Each time, the dealers replaced the master or slave cylinder that had failed, but they never cleaned out the system, so the debris from the one that had failed had got into the good one, causing it to fail a few months later.......

I thought that cable clutches had become the norm, because they get replaced so can't be fitted wrong and still work. Maybe manufacturers have more faith in their dealers than I have.
 

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MINI defector
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Call out MINI emergency services. Why try fixing something yourselves when you've effectively paid somebody else ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. It's a 2001 Cooper Works racecar (road-legal), so no help from dealers unfortunately. And it's Sunday.

Well, here's what I did after my first post, just hoping that a really good bleed might help:

Remove strutbrace, air intake, battery, battery box, cut-off box. Now I could access the bleed nipple properly. It was not leaking, so I removed the bleed nipple entirely and got the other half to sit in the car while I covered/uncovered the bleed nipple hole with my finger, whilst I topped the reservoir up to the brim and we played "up/down" for half an hour with only air coming through. Then, after another 10 minutes, all of a sudden a spurt of fluid came out! Woohoo!. Plain sailing from there!

So, it's fine now, thank God, as it has been blocking my other car in my garage!

If you ever want to bleed your clutch - remove the bleed nipple and use your finger.

Cheers
:cool:
 
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