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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have fixed one issue with camshaft sensor code P0343 Camshaft position sensor A Circuit High Bank 1 or Single Sensor with buying new camshaft sensor.
I own Mini R56N LCI so there are two sensors - it was Intake sensor.
Car got back power but now i have another code 2B67 - Air-mass flow, plausibility.

As my car does not have Air mass sensor I am a bit crossed, as when connected to OBDII reader have value "Air-mass hot-film air mass meter 1062.00kg/h and this is constant value. Does not change when reving etc.
My Intake silencer looks like this and does not have Air mass sensor
277128



On the other side this engine is equiped with Intake manifold pressure sensor. On picture below it is number 9.

9. Differential pressure sensor113627599905
277127



When used this part number 13627599905 received more options:
  • Bosh part number 0 261 230 254,
  • Meat & Doria Sensor, intake manifold pressure with integrated air temperature sensor EAN 803341943043.
So which one is the one for my car? unless they all are the same only Meat & Doria had some spare room on packaging and decided to confuse me more.

I was trying to rectify this by chating with someone from parts store and using VIN but even he wasn't 100% sure.
Tomorrow i will put my hands on this sensor and take some picture so i can check and get some numbers.
Is anyone has similar issue?
Anyone was replacing this sensor?
Or maybe there is another issue which is causing sensor issues, like ECU, but hopefuly not that.
 

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would also check the rocker cover pcv valve as sometime can fail and dump inlet pressure and cause a plausibility code, also seen throttle body's faults cause a air reading issue, would pull sensor get numbers off back of it needs to be right two types depending on years etc,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have changed sensor, quick 15min job.
Still the same.
Car does not throw codes straight away.
After moderate ride i have noticed, that when idling it kind of sounds rough and revs are fluctuating a bit, but engine is not smooth. When aircon on it settles as revs will automatically go a bit up.
After pluging OBD and checking what is up car does not have active MIL/EML but there is my favorite code - 2b67 air mass flow, plausibility.

In range idle-2500rpm is a bit rough with decrease in power. Over 2500when driving can hear quiet whining noise (a bit like belt but only when over 2500rpm).
i have ordered new throttle body and seal, as when i was replacing timming chain maybe done something to throttle body, but definitely did not changed gasket between throttle and intake manifold. (probably biggest mistake).
I know when i will take throttle body off and if there is oil/gunk there that definitely pcv/ccv failure, so hopefuly tht is not it, as it would be nice to solve this issue.

I already took off PCV/CCV hose and looks ok, no visible oil leaks and cracks visible. Oil level is the same since i have last checked, coolant the same.

Do i need to adapt somehow new throttle body, or this is just plug and play operation?

I will check today positive preassure with baloon and fuel preassure, as below 4bars can be sign of failing fuel pump (crap).
Will let know what is up.
 

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like i said before plausibility tends to be sensor working and sensor reading out of its parameter. if car has a misfire on one cylinder and you get a plausibility fault on inlet could be cracked inlet valve or and i have seen a lot of these valves seats drop out i got two heads in my unit at moment one with valve seats dropped out due to timing chain stretched and motorway high speeds high revs and high heats ,, i also have one wit two crack inlet valves as well form a turbo cooper s ,,,,, think best thong to do is start with basics,, compression test it hot and cold see what you have,,, leak down test would be a good thing,, ie charge the spark plug holes with compressed air and psi gauge see if can hear any air coming through any of the valve ports,, on turbo cars when the inlets carbon up they hold the valves off their seats and will cause same sort of fault and plausibility warnings ,,, also would do a smoke test on inlet pipe work and inlet manifold,,, you really are in whole world of pain with this kind of fault,, if you block the inlet breather pipe off to inlet manifold and run car see if improves if does then you know its that,, if pcv valve is faulty it will cause a plausibility like that,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have noticed, than car uses a bit more fuel.
On motorway it is fine, just on low revs.
Timing chain stretch. I have changed timing chain with vanos gears and tensioner.
I think stretched chain is less likely but i only know from experience on this car. I am more likely someone who don't mind had a go and deal with situation.
Well, we will see.
I will check again for fault codes tomorrow, because i did not had time today after a bit of distance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
mike1967
Do i have to remove intake manifold to replace breather pipe, or is it possible to do this from underneath the car?

Other thing, just bother me.
While ago i have bought coil pack, just one (i know it is stupid) nut when You jumping from R50 to R56 You still think that there is only one coil pack:) Anyway. I bought Bosch from here
277173

and it is rated as 14V.
Every other coils are 12V
Is that makes any difference? as numbers are matching and looks like this is the right part for my Mini.

Hopefully this is not too stupid question.
 

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yes inlet manifold off to remove pipe for breather, there is a 10mm bolt under the car under the inlet manifold i remove the divers side wheel and reach in and up from there its a proper pain in arse to get at,
looks ok the coil pack good brand as long as genuine one,,,there are a lot of Chinese nastys on line that dont to very good job,
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok. Back again. Used some self isolation time as a good excuse to gather parts and fix my Mini.
For very few days ot has been behaving, and apart ruff idle, but nothing spectacular, it was ok.
No codes or MIL light.

I have decided, as i bought some parts i will install them.

So i have replaced throttle body with gasket, breather pipe, 2x Vanos solenoids, 4x gaskets on intake manifold and brake shields as they were badly corroded.

Brake shields are not related to this thread but they are a not that easy to remove. Had to drill screws and remove them with drill. Barbarian but went easier than i thought it would be.

So, going back to engine.
Yes Mike1967 i have learned good lesson. Turns out i can remove breather pipe without taking off inlet manifold, but pushing back or clipping back is even worst job than that 10mm bolt You mentioned. Hour of fiddling and intake was off. After that whole job was easy. You were right. Removing intake is kinda awkward job but far more simple than what i was trying to do by cutting corners.
Well, after replacing everything i had in box started engine and voila. Rev counter was not waving, no rough idle. When i have removed dip stick and pushed back it nearly stalled but this is normal i believe.
Took some pictures of spark plugs s they look a bit strange. Had some misfire but not a lot. Like 1 or 2 on every cylinder, but that might be on that rough idle. Am i right?
Cyl1
277251

Cyl2
277252

Cyl3
277253

277254


They dos not look to bad. Not wet.
Or i am wrong?
Have looked on inlet channels and no oil , just pure aluminium look.

At the moment everything is ok. Have MOT on Wednesday but in current situation God knows whether i will have it done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
like i said before plausibility tends to be sensor working and sensor reading out of its parameter. if car has a misfire on one cylinder and you get a plausibility fault on inlet could be cracked inlet valve or and i have seen a lot of these valves seats drop out i got two heads in my unit at moment one with valve seats dropped out due to timing chain stretched and motorway high speeds high revs and high heats ,, i also have one wit two crack inlet valves as well form a turbo cooper s ,,,,, think best thong to do is start with basics,, compression test it hot and cold see what you have,,, leak down test would be a good thing,, ie charge the spark plug holes with compressed air and psi gauge see if can hear any air coming through any of the valve ports,, on turbo cars when the inlets carbon up they hold the valves off their seats and will cause same sort of fault and plausibility warnings ,,, also would do a smoke test on inlet pipe work and inlet manifold,,, you really are in whole world of pain with this kind of fault,, if you block the inlet breather pipe off to inlet manifold and run car see if improves if does then you know its that,, if pcv valve is faulty it will cause a plausibility like that,


Hi Mike1967.
Not sure whether You read my recent post.
Hopefully You are ok, in this isolation time.

Engine, after replacing vanos solenoids, PCV breather pipe, Throttle body housing and all gaskets on inlet manifold still comming up with same code about plausibility.
I am begin to think, that the only reason of that is this PCV valve (replacing valve cover should cure this) of this bloody GDI issues with, like You mentioned before carbon build up, or of hopefully not cracked valve (or similar).
Car still uses a bit more fuel than should. I do only 33mpg if lucky on average.

This code seems to generate only when my Wife is driving. She is not overreving, just steady driver.

I will order this valve cover and then check timing again. Now i am starting to not being 100% sure of my own work.
Self doubt, i think.
So i think i will do this leakdown test, and now. Can I do this with 120psi/150psi portable comperssor? as i don't have access to any pro tools or garages, as now they pretty much close for non essential work.


Funny thing, as my Wife saud yesterday, that She mises her r50, as apart squeky suspension there was no other issues like now. Cas was more mechanical than electrical and was more pleasure to drive. She might be right.


Stay safe.
PawKul
 

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i use old spark plug and removed the middle bit with hammer and drill and grind off the earth part of electrode etc,, then use a airline connector either drill out the plug body left and tap it or best way weld it on to it then can use a air valve fitted to air feed off compressor,, failing this remove manifolds and leave plugs in and get someone to crank engine over while listening to the ports get spit noises from valves ports then know there is a issue in there, i did see your plugs got some crud on them,, need to run the car hot then as soon as switch off remove the plugs so show colour and or wet etc best way no point removing them then later taking a pic needs to be as soon as pulled out each hole if that makes sense, very hard to see over pics and not in real life,
this lock down life is very boring
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i use old spark plug and removed the middle bit with hammer and drill and grind off the earth part of electrode etc,, then use a airline connector either drill out the plug body left and tap it or best way weld it on to it then can use a air valve fitted to air feed off compressor,, failing this remove manifolds and leave plugs in and get someone to crank engine over while listening to the ports get spit noises from valves ports then know there is a issue in there, i did see your plugs got some crud on them,, need to run the car hot then as soon as switch off remove the plugs so show colour and or wet etc best way no point removing them then later taking a pic needs to be as soon as pulled out each hole if that makes sense, very hard to see over pics and not in real life,
this lock down life is very boring
I am quite happy to buy this leak down test and compression test.
It seems easier than me in my little shed doing what You described:) dont have welding machine. Need get one probably.
What You described with cranking, You meant compression test? i think that is simple test, as long as battery will not die.

You think this compressor would do?


Thanks for quick reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Mike1967, again.
Feels like endless work with my Mini, but i will get to the bottom of that i think.

Today because i have received new valve cover and oil, filters etc. i tought to do this and at the same time check timing.
First flushed engine, as my other half dont warm up engine enough on her 5mile journey to work and back from it.
Drained oil, changed oil filter and removed valve cover with spark plugs.
Spark plugs after about 30min driving and warming up to drain oil looked exactly same as on previous pictures.
A bit like carbon or unburned fuel. Sticky and wet.
Cleaned them, then.
When setting up for locking engine i have followed instruction to see markings on camshafts (facing up) and then went under to insert pin.
Unfortunately locking pin did not slot in. So removed top lock and turn engine clockwise to see when pin will slot into its place.
Well, slotted few times but that was not correct place.
So, searching for that spot took a while. When locket at the bottom i have used big skewers to check position of pistont to find TDC.
I have seen this somewhere on Youtube.
So when locked it is like that. Sticks are same lenght and placed in the same position.
277399


but the markings are not visible on the top.

I have a feeling that something moved itself and probably is the vibration damper as both camshaft looks synced in that move.
277400


Unfortunately i have just received torx bolts for Vanos sprockets so, there was no talking about moving camshafts to correct position.
Maybe tomorrow if weather is ok.

Enough of that essay.

Mike1967, now i have some technical question.
1. Is it normal that TDC is as on that picture that all of sticks are not on the same level?

2. How to correct it?

3. If pistons are gonna be on TDC and locked can I correct everything with camshafts?

4. For issue with air mass plausibility i have ordered fuel tank breather as well, is that have any influence on this no power issue but burning alot more fuel?

I have inserted inspection camera into pistons, sorry but dont know how to record, so no footage.
Pistons were looking carbonated and wet, same as spark plugs.
I think that this is bad timing and fuel is not burned enough and residue on everything. Also noticed smell from front of car like sulphur. Looks like catalyser dont like mixture. And hat is leading me to bad timing again, as if fuel/oil will go onto catalyser these are the symptoms. Am I right?

Sorry for long story but i am trying to give all detailes of this saga.

Thanks
PawKul.
 

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ok this my last post on here i have decided to stop as i put in my signature i have left the forum.. just got fed up with some people who take their cars to garages on here but think they can try and call me out on shit and nitpick etc,, so to be honest dont need the added hassle to my life right now and to be honest i have been doing this since 2017 and every so often get someone who feels they need to make a point and i cant be bothered with it, strangely get more respect form people that pay me than some on here who get it for free go figure, , and also when this virus stops ruining our lives i'm giving up working on any cars as well,,, time for a change.
so your engine, your timing is out you need to turn crankshaft all way around until see the writing on cam shafts and all the equal length poles in the plug holes are same length ie its not tdc, tdc is top dead centre these engine are timed on the chain at 90 degrees before tdc on number 1 ie all 4 piston same height in bores,, also the lock pin in crank can catch a flywheel indent from bolt hole when 180 degrees out as your engine is that,, rotate crank 180 degrees from where you are see if can get pin in crank, the way to tell if lock pin to crankshaft is incorrect is to rotate with force both ways if crank locks only one direction then its wrong should be able to put a 4ft bar on crank bolt and it should not move either way..
 

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Была такая проблема, сопровождалась плавающими оборотами и сбой оборотов двигателя на 2500, также в России появилась ошибка 2b68 2b67, суровые погодные условия и плохое качество топлива из-за чего сильно загрязняется корпус дроссельной заслонки, простая чистка подробнее не раз спасал из кода 2b67 Но бывают и случаи, когда корпус изношен, это легко проверить, сняв дроссель и посветив в него фонариком при свете, видно где износ дроссельная заслонка есть. В моем конкретном случае была проблема с верхним датчиком кислорода и дроссельной заслонкой, пробег 185000 км ОТ вируса, лечимся по старинке Водкой и сигаретами)) Пишу через переводчик об этом, извините за ошибки)

279367
 

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I have fixed one issue with camshaft sensor code P0343 Camshaft position sensor A Circuit High Bank 1 or Single Sensor with buying new camshaft sensor.
I own Mini R56N LCI so there are two sensors - it was Intake sensor.
Car got back power but now i have another code 2B67 - Air-mass flow, plausibility.

As my car does not have Air mass sensor I am a bit crossed, as when connected to OBDII reader have value "Air-mass hot-film air mass meter 1062.00kg/h and this is constant value. Does not change when reving etc.
My Intake silencer looks like this and does not have Air mass sensor
View attachment 277128


On the other side this engine is equiped with Intake manifold pressure sensor. On picture below it is number 9.

9. Differential pressure sensor113627599905
View attachment 277127


When used this part number 13627599905 received more options:
  • Bosh part number 0 261 230 254,
  • Meat & Doria Sensor, intake manifold pressure with integrated air temperature sensor EAN 803341943043.
So which one is the one for my car? unless they all are the same only Meat & Doria had some spare room on packaging and decided to confuse me more.

I was trying to rectify this by chating with someone from parts store and using VIN but even he wasn't 100% sure.
Tomorrow i will put my hands on this sensor and take some picture so i can check and get some numbers.
Is anyone has similar issue?
Anyone was replacing this sensor?
Or maybe there is another issue which is causing sensor issues, like ECU, but hopefuly not that.
Did you get this sorted? I'm experience same. I'm thinking stretched chain causing cam timing to be out and intake valves not closing in time and letting gasses back into manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Did you get this sorted? I'm experience same. I'm thinking stretched chain causing cam timing to be out and intake valves not closing in time and letting gasses back into manifold?
Hi.
I have noticed, that timing was out, so had to set this up correctly. Crankshaft bolt was the cause. Not torqued correctly on 2nd stage. So my fault.
If You take off timing might as well change chain on oil pump as You are there and that fixed my later issue with oil pressure code (but no eml etc).
I have changed battery as well as i had few silly electrical codes.
That is not the end as Start-Stop still does not work.
Vacuum pressure issue, but that is another journey.

Hopefully helped.
Thanks
 
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