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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I have a Mini Cooper 2nd gen purchased 2week ago 100k fsh first week run spot on into 2 week problem first amber temp light on then red but still coolant in tank left over night , drive next day approx 10 miles red temp light on no coolant in tank refilled got home , next day let it idle for 30 mins drive 8 mile checked tank no coolant loss or temp light on , next drive 15 mile drive same as previous drive , today drive 16 mile then amber light on , check coolant level good drove about a mile after the last stop amber then red no coolant as it was all over the engine bay , refill after cool down and drove the 6 mile to home no problem no lights please help feed up driving with bottles of water , no mayo on filler or dip stick , no white smoke, no misfire or bad start,heaters work fine , no leaks as I can see but have noticed expansion tank gets hot as well as top hose but bottom hose is cold even after a 30 minute idle but no coolant loss tonight what do you think ?
 

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DO NOT keep using the car. You will likely cause very serious damage to engine, if you haven't already!
 

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here is a list of things it could be.
Prone to cracked reservoir plastic.
Water pump leaking.
Water pump to thermostat housing tube cracked.
Thermostat housing cracked and or faulty thermostat (very common) will throw a code so get ECU read.
Not likely to be head gasket from what you have said.
Good luck. As said, stop driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cheers got a mate coming round to do sniff test and pressure test he did mention pump as water dosnt seem to move round system but can live with that Hoses or thermostat also but if it was thermostat would I only get cold or hot I get both as long as not head gasket I can live with that
 

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Discussion Starter #6
here is a list of things it could be.
Prone to cracked reservoir plastic.
Water pump leaking.
Water pump to thermostat housing tube cracked.
Thermostat housing cracked and or faulty thermostat (very common) will throw a code so get ECU read.
Not likely to be head gasket from what you have said.
Good luck. As said, stop driving it.
Changed expansion tank cap currently running with code 7 on the dash for temp reading did pressure test all good did 3 sniff tests all good but have noticed that temp goes up slowly did main fan comes on at 108 and I have a coolant leak at the water pump side but is hard to see where it’s coming from that’s the reason I think that’s the reason I’m getting a high temp? Anyo info back would be appreciated
 

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common for plastic link pipe from water pump to thermostat housing also water pumps tend to leak with age and miles,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
common for plastic link pipe from water pump to thermostat housing also water pumps tend to leak with age and miles,
Hi mike got a mechanic to look it over water pump looks bad enough to do but the plastic pipe looks a nightmare to do just get him to do a homer on it
 

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i pull inlet manifold off best way for access ,, there is a clip on thermo end the water pump ends just pushes in the ye should be a single 10mm bolt for link pipe under the manifold, also under manifold a single 10 mm bolt under it needs to come out and its right under hidden away
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i pull inlet manifold off best way for access ,, there is a clip on thermo end the water pump ends just pushes in the ye should be a single 10mm bolt for link pipe under the manifold, also under manifold a single 10 mm bolt under it needs to come out and its right under hidden away
Like I said mechanic looking at it Tomorrow and take it from there if you do it your way your way would you still need to remove the thermostat and would you need a new gasket for the manifold
 

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yes need to remove thermostat housing to get link pipe out, need to remove the inlet manifold to gain access to the 10mm bolt that holds link pipe to rear of engine block not just my way its the only way
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yes need to remove thermostat housing to get link pipe out, need to remove the inlet manifold to gain access to the 10mm bolt that holds link pipe to rear of engine block not just my way its the only way
Found leak water pump would you change serptine belt and pulley at the same time
 

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Discussion Starter #14
might a well ie do it all and forget about it
Ok mike did the water pump change no leaks put on code 7 did a 20 mile drive temp went up to 115 when I stopped temp went down as I was on idle no temp lights engine not overheating no boiling coolantOr loss where to next it should not be hitting 115 diving on a open road
 

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thermo housing or rad blocked maybe,, when car moving at 40mph on flat it should go down around 100c-112c on old thermo housings , 105c on new ones, might fond past owners could of had water leak and used rad weld or head gasket repair gunk in water and all that will do is clog radiator up, also have replaces many radiators on them over 10 years old,
i would use a diagnostics tool to live data the coolant temps and get someone to drive it while you monitor the temps,,
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thermo housing or rad blocked maybe,, when car moving at 40mph on flat it should go down around 100c-112c on old thermo housings , 105c on new ones, might fond past owners could of had water leak and used rad weld or head gasket repair gunk in water and all that will do is clog radiator up, also have replaces many radiators on them over 10 years old,
i would use a diagnostics tool to live data the coolant temps and get someone to drive it while you monitor the temps,,
Don’t know about rad as had no problems until water pump started leaking And I’m getting coolant return if it was blocked would I get nothing back stat seems to work as I get hot air when open and cold when closed And main fan comes on at 108 Pyle temp sensor be done or maybe a false reading off of the on board computer where would you start first can you disconnect the rad hoses and flag the system
 

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as thermostat housing is a known problem with them that would be first job and most likely to be the issue,, these engine must have the latest spec housing fitted ie runs cooler for a start its a must do update,, link below
 

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Discussion Starter #18
as thermostat housing is a known problem with them that would be first job and most likely to be the issue,, these engine must have the latest spec housing fitted ie runs cooler for a start its a must do update,, link below
Hi mike been offered a febi thermostat n14 r56 Cooper s brand new at a fraction cost of new one will this fit my Cooper it has a n12 one
 

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febi is good i use those, just make sure its a genuine febi one as there are fake Chinese ones around that are rubbish
 
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