MINI Cooper Forum banner

Cooper d 2009 turbo issues

9305 Views 64 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  mike1967
Hi all. Ive just bought a 2009 cooper d 2009 with 120000 miles on the clock. the engine sounded ok but was in limp mode. On investigation the turbo has failed. i have never seen as much play before. i can probably move the impeller shaft about 10mm up and down. i am not joking.
how big a job is fitting a new turbo and can anyone recommend a supplier. I will probably need more help and advice so keep your eye on me. thanks chaps and chapesses.
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
need to replace or delete dpf filter at same time , also will new oil feed pipe as well, also on block end of oil feed pipe there is a gauze filter common for this to block up and take the turbo out,, so need to remove this gauze from the banjo bolt and leave it out,, also need to remove sump clean it out and replace oil pick strainer from oil pump also common these to clog take out turbo,,, also pull the plastic cover off top of engine and look at the injectors and check all 4 are tight and have no carbon black crud around them,, if do needs new seals and prob take rocker cover off and clean out around them,, reason behind this is that crud is rock hard and blocks up oil pick u[p in sump and that gauze filter and do what its done,,,
best bet turbo is find a genuine garret one for sale,,, heads up if you just replace the turbo and dont do the rest within a few miles will be buying another turbo for it is the norm,
need to replace or delete dpf filter at same time , also will new oil feed pipe as well, also on block end of oil feed pipe there is a gauze filter common for this to block up and take the turbo out,, so need to remove this gauze from the banjo bolt and leave it out,, also need to remove sump clean it out and replace oil pick strainer from oil pump also common these to clog take out turbo,,, also pull the plastic cover off top of engine and look at the injectors and check all 4 are tight and have no carbon black crud around them,, if do needs new seals and prob take rocker cover off and clean out around them,, reason behind this is that crud is rock hard and blocks up oil pick u[p in sump and that gauze filter and do what its done,,,
best bet turbo is find a genuine garret one for sale,,, heads up if you just replace the turbo and dont do the rest within a few miles will be buying another turbo for it is the norm,
Hi MIke cheers for the quick response. do i have to take the front bumper off and grill and rads off. how easy is the dpf delete. have you done it yourself or has someone remapped it for u.
I wanted a project i think i have one.
not many how to vids on youtube either.
check this out, same engine
Cheers Paul will have a watch.
Hi MIke cheers for the quick response. do i have to take the front bumper off and grill and rads off. how easy is the dpf delete. have you done it yourself or has someone remapped it for u.
I wanted a project i think i have one.
not many how to vids on youtube either.
yes need to pull the front away so bumper and crash cell, its easier to remove that by undoing the 4 16mm long bolts under the square box sections and then lever or use hammer to tap it off, there is also small torx screws to remove as well from the metal to plastic front end bit, little tip before letting it run the first time pull the plug off the fuel pump so car wont start and crank it over a good 5 times gets oil to turbo before spinning it up protects it from first start dry as such,
as for dpf its in two parts top part is the cat bottom part will come off single 13mm bolt on the pressure band you remove this and use a drip and make loads of holes to weaken it then use hammer and chisel for the rest,, yes must have ecu mapped for delete for best results have it mapped stage 1 with dpf and egr deleted they go well then will give a stock cooper s a run for its money off the lights,,, i have contact now who can do the ecu work mail order really good guy called dale its automotive tech repairs ecu's and body control modules ,,,dale 07807222262 just say mike off mini forum from devon pointed you,, not many people can do this like this and i have done many like it over the years,,, most places want to see the car as well, he can eprom ecu's and knows what files need to changing ,, when i get stuck he's the guy i use not found anyone better,,,
See less See more
yes need to pull the front away so bumper and crash cell, its easier to remove that by undoing the 4 16mm long bolts under the square box sections and then lever or use hammer to tap it off, there is also small torx screws to remove as well from the metal to plastic front end bit, little tip before letting it run the first time pull the plug off the fuel pump so car wont start and crank it over a good 5 times gets oil to turbo before spinning it up protects it from first start dry as such,
as for dpf its in two parts top part is the cat bottom part will come off single 13mm bolt on the pressure band you remove this and use a drip and make loads of holes to weaken it then use hammer and chisel for the rest,, yes must have ecu mapped for delete for best results have it mapped stage 1 with dpf and egr deleted they go well then will give a stock cooper s a run for its money off the lights,,, i have contact now who can do the ecu work mail order really good guy called dale its automotive tech repairs ecu's and body control modules ,,,dale 07807222262 just say mike off mini forum from devon pointed you,, not many people can do this like this and i have done many like it over the years,,, most places want to see the car as well, he can eprom ecu's and knows what files need to changing ,, when i get stuck he's the guy i use not found anyone better,,,
cheers Mike will hopefully get it off tomorrow and im definitely going to do the dpf egr delete map. cheers
for your help. i will definitely need more help so keep watching this thread. will probs get a few pictures on as well.
i've done hundreds of them same engine used in all psa and volvo and ford cars ,, stage 1 map makes them pull like a train in first 4 gears and can trundle in top at 40mph if want to and still get good mpg,, also going forward do oil and filter changes 8k max ,,, if you do need to pull the rocker cover off would be worth doing timing belt and water pump and the small link chain between the camshafts under rocker cover,
i've done hundreds of them same engine used in all psa and volvo and ford cars ,, stage 1 map makes them pull like a train in first 4 gears and can trundle in top at 40mph if want to and still get good mpg,, also going forward do oil and filter changes 8k max ,,, if you do need to pull the rocker cover off would be worth doing timing belt and water pump and the small link chain between the camshafts under rocker cover,
i was thinking about doing timing belt because even though the service book is stamped upto 115k i cant find any info on cambelt being done.
you will need to do the water pump as well, see the belt will do 150k or more but the water pump bearing dont tend to last much past 80k from seeing way to many failed over the years ,, gates do a timing belt and water pump kit and really good brand , ink below for idea

febi kit
gates
link chain kit with tensioner
as for turbo's its a mine field genuine garret one best but not cheap, could just fit a cartridge cheapest ,, buy from a uk made turbo refurb guy best option other than genuine garret ,,, the vac neg pressure for bump stop is 14psi to set controller on vnt if fit a cart
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
This is where I bought my turbocharger last year.
It is a real borg warner. It works perfect.
You can find stuff much cheaper I am sure. Biggest thing about the installation is draining the coolant. And a lot of coolant is in the heater core area. Meaning I would drain that also. and have to purchase one of these kits.
For 2007-2015 Mini Cooper Heater Core O-Ring Kit 22916BJ 2008 2009 2010 2011 | eBay
That way I could fill up on coolant and have a better chance at having some heat this winter. removing the idea of air bubbles on install of that new or re used coolant which every I would choose.
3
This is my old turbo.
Space Metal Grey Composite material Circle

Metal Machine Steel Silver

Brown Tan Metal Beige Brass


I myself am amazed it is still in very good working order. My problem with it was the Actuator. The rod bent over the course of 100,000 miles. slightly bent it would get hung up on the iron hot side bracket that holds it.
I actually bent it back straight again and tested the action of the actuator. If I ever ran it again I would buy a new actuator for it. Because there is zero play in the turbine at all any direction. solid in there like new. robust and from the factory at mini cooper installed. It's old, but....I at the time I thought the turbocharger was shot and replaced it then found out what the issue was. I bent it back out with a crowbar using my foot to hold it on the concrete floor. I imagine if I had to I could bend a actuator back out on the car the same way from underneath the car.
The more I look at the turbocharger. The more confident I feel about the idea I could possibly rebuild one provided the waste gate door is in respectable condition. considering the actuator can be removed without a cutting torch.
separated and have a new turbine module installed in the center of again.
So yea this old thing is good to go. I still have the blow off unit out in the garage. As well as the original spring for it.
I rendered the Alta spring from this unit and installed in my new turbo.
See less See more
My bad. Not a cast iron bracket that was a little iron weight of sort. The actuator was bent and for some reason probably because the distance being shorter from the rod being bent. Keeping in mind that just one thread on the actuator rod is equal to 2 pounds of boost. That because the rod was shorter, the diaphragm inside the actuator housing could not go it's full range of motion. Unbending it unfroze not the pitch or angle it was taking at the wastegate door level that it connects to on the outside, but allowing the very robust diaphragm inside to do it's thing it usually does. It happens over time.
And I caught it at the perfect time the time it started surging not the time it was sticking! discovering the bend rod.
My bad. Not a cast iron bracket that was a little iron weight of sort. The actuator was bent and for some reason probably because the distance being shorter from the rod being bent. Keeping in mind that just one thread on the actuator rod is equal to 2 pounds of boost. That because the rod was shorter, the diaphragm inside the actuator housing could not go it's full range of motion. Unbending it unfroze not the pitch or angle it was taking at the wastegate door level that it connects to on the outside, but allowing the very robust diaphragm inside to do it's thing it usually does. It happens over time.
And I caught it at the perfect time the time it started surging not the time it was sticking! discovering the bend rod.
the cooper d is diesel engine and has a very different turbo set up the petrols have a kkk type turbo with diverter valve those diesels are pone to failing badly and do tend to diesel runaway when do fail,, ie engine runs on its own engine oil until it destroys it self cant switch it off rev 8k plus for a few minutes big clouds of smoke etc,
This is where I bought my turbocharger last year.
It is a real borg warner. It works perfect.
You can find stuff much cheaper I am sure. Biggest thing about the installation is draining the coolant. And a lot of coolant is in the heater core area. Meaning I would drain that also. and have to purchase one of these kits.
For 2007-2015 Mini Cooper Heater Core O-Ring Kit 22916BJ 2008 2009 2010 2011 | eBay
That way I could fill up on coolant and have a better chance at having some heat this winter. removing the idea of air bubbles on install of that new or re used coolant which every I would choose.
You do know the op is talking about his diesel turbo. Very different.
a lot of info there chaps. thanks for your help and i will keep u updated on the project.
Right, ive got the new turbo on, the dpf/cat has been removed, the egr valve has been blanked off,replaced oil pick up pipe in sump, replaced turbo oil feed pipe and i was going to replace timing belt and water pump. But i can not find the flywheel locking pin location to remove the crank pulley bolt. any one any ideas .
9
its on the front timing ring for crank position sensor 5mm hole in the ring gear that locates to a raised hole in front alloy casing below screen shot is autodata for it,
Line Font Colorfulness Circle Parallel
Text Line Font Colorfulness Circle
Blue Text Colorfulness Line Font
Blue Text Colorfulness Line Font
Blue Text Colorfulness Line Font
Text Colorfulness Line Font Azure
Text White Colorfulness Line Font
Blue Text Colorfulness Line Font
Text Line Colorfulness Font Azure
See less See more
3nd ie shows crank pin can use a drill bit think top pulley was 7mm
cheers mike. had to remove a tiny plastic cover. near the drive shaft then fit the locking device to the teeth on the fly wheel.
i was planning on doing the chain after the cambelt. is it possible to do the chain without removing the cambelt again.
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top