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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
I’ve recently got a Mini Cooper s 2010 89000 miles n18 and the clutch is acting strange and not sure if it needs replacing or something else.
The clutch pedal is around 1/4 to 1/2 pedal travel to disengage clutch, the pedal resistance feels normal until after 1/2 travel then it goes very light, when letting the pedal back up it has little pressure pushing the pedal back up till 1/2 pedal travel then it the resistance comes back
All this leads to unpleasant feel on the clutch pedal, it changes gears fine but when releasing the clutch after a gear change the clutch is very sharp when re engaging drive and the car lurches, it’s very noticeable in low gears (not my driving, I had a family member try it and it was the same with them)
I have tried bleeding the the clutch slave but it’s free of air,
My question is, is my mini getting ready for a new clutch, it’s not slipping at the moment, or have I got an issue elsewhere
I have had an r56 cooper before this and my mum has a 2007 cooper s n14 and the clutches it them feel normal, my new 2010 cooper s feels totally different.
Any ideas
 

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90k on a n18 clutch is about its limits for a used in town a lot of use, have seen 50k on a lot of them as well
 

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Discussion Starter #3
do you think from what I’ve tried to explain it’s ready for a clutch then,
I’m doing the work myself, just didn’t want to go pulling the gearbox out if it was something else
 

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its one of those me personally i dont replace my clutches on our own cars until they get so bad its a no brainer, but i have access to other cars and recovery truck etc,, one thing will ad is this,, mini like psa group use plastic master and slave cylinders and have seen more around that mileage fail and when do they send debris in to the pipe work ,, for piece of mind i would replace both and clean or replace the pipe work,, to clean i use airline and brake cleaner,, febi do a good made replacement links below for ref, if order anything must check the reg with vendor first
slave cylinder
master
would do these first see what pedal you get back knowing that all the out side parts are all new and working ring
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for reply
Thinking about it with the clutch pedal bite point being 1/4 to 1/2 pedal travel, if I did have a failing master and slave cylinder(No visible fluid leaks) and replaced those it wouldn’t help with making the bite point any lower on the clutch pedal?
I don’t think the clutch is slipping, but I haven’t been anywhere hilly to find out
Would sooner replace it before it goes totally wrong and damages the flywheel I think
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just been out this morning and the resistance on the pedal for the full length of travel has come back, but then the resistance goes again after half pedal travel most of the time so there is some sort of intermittent issue, is this the master or clutch slave?
 

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when a clutch is worn out the bite bite point moves from 1/2 to over near the top of travel if that makes sense,, if there is air in the clutch fluid ie same as brake fluid runs off same brake system, also brake fluid needs changing ever 4/5 years as it attracts water moisture and this will cause air bubbles,, it also gets effected more with heat,, ie as car gets driven under bonnet gets over 100c this heat makes the moisture in the fluid turn to steam or expand and give a different feel to clutch pedal,, this same affect can also be in the brakes ie get brake fade faster if driven really hard,, this all said at 90.000 miles the master and slave are on their last legs,, so get fluid changes would makes sense to do a bit of preventive work ,, ie its right pain when you are in a cue of cars and one of the cylinder fail and can get a gear ets
 
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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for reply
I have ordered a new master and slave, will give an update on wether this sorts my issue, if not it’s time for a clutch.
Car has had a brake fluid change last year in its service
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I have now replaced the master and clutch cylinders, the pedal now has a better feel, same resistance pressed and depressed so that is an improvement, however when changing up the gears 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd and not so bad 3rd to 4th the clutch seams rather sharp/sudden when re engaging drive which makes the car lurch, only way I have found to stop this is to slowly release the clutch pedal around the bite point but it’s not normal, can change up the gears 4th 5th 6th normally when releasing clutch pedal
Is this an actual clutch issue?
 

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if your talking about feathering the clutch on gear changes you might find the flywheel and pressure plate are polished from this and can get sharp,, as a clutch is a like brake discs the more used the more they change their feeling,, have you try'd using the clutch more like a on off switch to drive as dragging the gear changes on the pedal to feather to much will destroy the friction plate and polish the surfaces as well, also the heat gets soaked in to pressure plate and can hurt the spring fingers as well
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Hi,
I tried as you said using the pedal like an on off switch and it’s really it’s even worse for making the car lurch when changing gears, with regards to feathering the clutch, When releasing the pedal if I do it gradually (not letting it slip loads) it changes gear more smoothly but not perfect, if I release the pedal normally, its almost like the pressure plate is slow releasing and then all of a sudden re engages drive, this is what I mean when I say it’s shape and makes the car lurch,
Is it possible that my mini has a self adjusting clutch I’ve read about, And that is causing this?
 

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i would say thrust bearing has worn in to the sleeve it runs on around gearbox input shaft, or clutch pressure plate is worn out sticking maybe flywheel suspect,
90.000 miles is about the life of a clutch, LUK do a fair price clutch kit , would also do the rear crank shaft oil seal and flywheel if keeping it, now you know the outside bits are all new and add the mileage its wells in realms of needing pretty soon gone have the day when clutch would do 200k if driven nice, now its barely 100k
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for reply mike1967
Think I’m going to have to do the clutch/flywheel as I’m definitely keeping the car
The link you sent me is for an n14 I would need a n18 clutch/flywheel or are they the same?
 

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as far as i know yest they are, but give them your reg number before ordering anything,, C & G MOTORSPORTS in uk worth speaking o as well if want a more heavy duty system on it
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi,
Had a look on neo bros with my reg number
Think there is a difference somewhere,
As the flywheel says fits N18 only,
 
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