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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a MCS 2010, with N18 engine a couple of weeks ago.

Its run perfectly for a couple of hundred miles (notwithstanding cracked intake pipe, which I replaced).

Yesterday the Check Engine Light and Reduced Power Light lit up, so I got a Diagnostic Scan this morning.

Its a long list, including a couple of bulbs that I'm not going to worry about at this stage.

Code (all prefixed "00") Description
A128 JBE: Hardware Fault, Rain Sensor
A129 JBE: No Adaptation to Window Glass (RLS)
A12D JBE: Hardware Fault, Light Sensor
9C48 IHKA: Mixing-flap motor
9C4D IHKA: Air-distribution-flap motor

E72F No message (status driving light) receiver integrated automatic heating / air conditioning system / IHKS / HIS, transmitter JBE
E735 No message (RLS wiper speed) receiver integrated automatic heating / air conditioning system / IHKS / HIS, transmitter JBE
335B Brake vacuum sensor, plausability: Differential pressure too low
2FA9 Ignition, cylinder 2: Combustion period too short
2EE0 Combustion misfiring, several cylinders: Fuel injection deactivation
2EE7 Combustion misfiring, cylinder 2: Fuel injection deactivation
2D5B VANOS intake: Control fault, position not reached
2C58 Charging pressure control: Switch off as consequence

A11F ELV_M_Stempunkt_Fehler

I want to address the eight in bold as a priority and will do further research and put anything that I learn on here in case it can help others.

Obviously any knowledge shared by others will be appreciated.
 

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JBE is part of the body control module in front foot well, might just be down to flat battery or fault with battery cables ,, the rest of it could also be that as well,,, if voltages drop below 12v on cranking the ecu's will not talk to each other and will shut down,, need a known good battery ie most AGM lasts 5-8 years tops and must also be coded to car ecu as well,, then reset the codes see whats left if any,, or could put battery charger on it over night leave it on the car while running resets and diagnostics so has stable voltage,,, need to do this reset it and then try to restart it see what comes back
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
First priority for me is to check the battery, but for anybody with the same fault codes, a bit of digging around the internet suggests the following culprits:

Vanos solenoids seem to be associated with codes 9C48 2D58 2C58. Removal, checking, cleaning, swapping, and/or replacing would seem prudent.

Coil packs crop up sometimes with code 2EE7

@mike1967 makes the point elsewhere on here that it makes sense to change the Brake Vacuum Pump as well.

A minor aside, but this website provides useful and concise info: BMW Fault Code Lookup - BMWFaultCodes
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@mike1967 I just tried to send you a private message using the conversation function, but was unsuccessful. Could you send me a message via conversation with a contact number/email please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did a bit of research, and testing an AGM battery involves a bit more than a quick check with a voltmeter, so its booked into Halfords on Tuesday for a battery condition check which is free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A bit frustrating but I can't read (or reset) codes from the car.

Neither of:
my old code reader (MemoscanU581), or
ELM327 v1.5 bluetooth dongles
ELM327 v.2.1 bluetooth dongle
will connect with the car via the OBD socket.

I've tried Torque and BimmerCode apps but neither will connect to either dongle. Both dongles have red power lights.

The garage that did the diagnostic check were obviously able to connect so the car side is working.

Presumably Mike's recommendation of Autocom CDP from AliExpress, connects via Bluetooth to a laptop(?), but I'm hesitant to buy it if that won't connect either.

Any thoughts would be welcomed.
 

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A bit frustrating but I can't read (or reset) codes from the car.

Neither of:
my old code reader (MemoscanU581), or
ELM327 v1.5 bluetooth dongles
ELM327 v.2.1 bluetooth dongle
will connect with the car via the OBD socket.

I've tried Torque and BimmerCode apps but neither will connect to either dongle. Both dongles have red power lights.

The garage that did the diagnostic check were obviously able to connect so the car side is working.

Presumably Mike's recommendation of Autocom CDP from AliExpress, connects via Bluetooth to a laptop(?), but I'm hesitant to buy it if that won't connect either.

Any thoughts would be welcomed.
it will connect below is live data to mine
black miniwf57dwu..png
cooper s 2007 live data running right 2.png
cooper s 2007 live data running right.png

i would not sudgest anything that i have not already used and know it works with everything up to 2016 on autocom and 2020 on latest wurth snooper on a scan level scans all ecus's and most code as well ie acn code a battery in etc, i've scanned many n18 cars with both does work without any doubt,, ELM wont work thats a older platform, newer stuff kpw2000 and canbus network etc they both work with ,, put it this way i have access to the latest spec snap on diagnostics tool ,, and both these cheapo diagnostics tools do some stuff the snap on wont like program bcm etc on a lot of stuff,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did a bit of research, and testing an AGM battery involves a bit more than a quick check with a voltmeter, so its booked into Halfords on Tuesday for a battery condition check which is free.
Battery is fine, so spent some of the money saved by not buying a new one, on Mike's recommended diagnostic kit. :)

Over the past few days, the car drives normally the vast majority of times, but the check engine light pops up every few journeys.

Somebody who knows more about Minis than me confirmed (by listening to the engine) that there is nothing wrong with the timing chain, so its likely that I'll check coil packs and plugs and VANOS solenoids and replace as necessary.
 

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that diagnostics will allow you to run live data on it like above,, if you get a unknown fault code this sometimes can be a mechanical issue,, ie very common inlet and even exhaust valves seats leaking due to carbon built and/oe valve stem seals dripping oil through over time, below pics out of a n14 turbo car ie n18 does same thing of the inlet valves
IMG_20191204_122053.jpg
 

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Holy PHACK!....I thought my life sucked.....I'm not trying to be a dick....you have not had it long and Ill bet the miles is low......my best advice,,,ins fraud! many / most of these cars are nightmares with an occasional success story I got my o7 \S w85,000 km 18 mon ago..I have 20,000$ in repair invoice and yes I'm a slow learner.....good luck Bro
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Holy PHACK!....I thought my life sucked.....I'm not trying to be a dick....you have not had it long and Ill bet the miles is low......my best advice,,,ins fraud! many / most of these cars are nightmares with an occasional success story I got my o7 \S w85,000 km 18 mon ago..I have 20,000$ in repair invoice and yes I'm a slow learner.....good luck Bro
Sorry to hear of your woes. CAD20k is probably considerably more that the car would be worth in UK! Mine is on 98,000m (c.156000km) Hope that you get everything sorted and get to enjoy your car...

...on that subject, covered 350 miles in mine on Friday including rural roads, Motorways and through central London and it continues to run perfectly! Really enjoying driving it and I'm getting around as fast as my other car with more than twice the power, and only using half the fuel! :)

Started it up today and got the engine warning light (and reduced power) after half a mile. Switched off, then back on again a few minutes later and it ran perfectly for 20 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Given that Minis seem to have thermostat / thermostat housing issues, and don't seem to have a temp guage, I bought a great little gadget, to display coolant temp, oil temp etc.

I know you can get quite a lot of the info using Torque on your phone, but as the in-built SatNav is awful, I tend to use Waze/Google Maps on the phone.

Instant peace of mind as it shows temperature staying in 102-106C range most of the time, so GBP42 well spent.

 

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Given that Minis seem to have thermostat / thermostat housing issues, and don't seem to have a temp guage, I bought a great little gadget, to display coolant temp, oil temp etc.

I know you can get quite a lot of the info using Torque on your phone, but as the in-built SatNav is awful, I tend to use Waze/Google Maps on the phone.

Instant peace of mind as it shows temperature staying in 102-106C range most of the time, so GBP42 well spent.

you are a wise man i got a cheapy china one had it for years plug in to eobd socket works on everything i through at it,, just handy when do first drives after a engine rebuild to know what something is doing with out plugging in the laptop and live data,, and believe me the amount of cars i see that end up being scrapped because owner never knew the rad hose had failed or water pump is shockingly high,, i done about 150 miles now on mine after putting a new piston in it, gave it a good hiding today see if its all playing nice again and no warning lights or issues so far,, but i do miss the map that was on it as i have put it back to standard again,, when get eml on and off does tend to be a cat or 02 sensor from past dealings
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The car will frequently be parked outside unused for a couple of weeks.

An AGM battery costs GBP185 coded and fitted at Halfords (cheaper online, but still need coding) so I bought a solar charger that connects via the OBD socket to trickle charge it. Feels like money well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
...when get eml on and off does tend to be a cat or 02 sensor from past dealings
Mine runs fine most of the time, then pops on the EML, so I won't be surprised if its one or more sensors rather than components, but I'll learn more when the diagnostic software arrives.
 

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that software is a god send when it comes to working thing out as if cant read it you really do struggle to find some faults without,, i'm old school know ay around a meter and how electrical stuff works and why it works,, but sometimes i get a fault that makes me struggle to get head around it,, and these are normally the cars with a number of faults causing stuff that makes you look at it with the WTF is going now with it lol
 

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My Cooper S also randomly throws a limp light. If i stop the car and restart it clears and doesnt come back on. Happens once every few months or so but no error codes
 

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need to scan it if throws limp modes will have hidden P-codes stored that will give you a clue as to what is going on,, ignore it at your peril if its a fuel issue and its washing bores or something, and as above that scan tool with read all P-codes
 
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