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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
been a lurker and long time reader on here for a long time now, i have had a few mini's petrol and diesel and have done full engine rebuilds timing chains etc and now seeking a bit of advice on doing a full chain replacement kit [FAI] on my wife's mini countryman 2.0 sd that has covered over a 150,000 miles that has just started to make the chain rattle on start up for a few seconds apart from that it drives great so my question is can i get away with just removing the gearbox to do the job leaving the engine in.
thanks rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hi guys,
been a lurker and long time reader on here for a long time now, i have had a few mini's petrol and diesel and have done full engine rebuilds timing chains etc and now seeking a bit of advice on doing a full chain replacement kit [FAI] on my wife's mini countryman 2.0 sd that has covered over a 150,000 miles that has just started to make the chain rattle on start up for a few seconds apart from that it drives great so my question is can i get away with just removing the gearbox to do the job leaving the engine in.
thanks rob
Sorry don't want to get a week ban and a bollocking from the powers that be,i have a 2012 mini countryman cooper 2.0sd and live in whaley bridge in the high peak.
 

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pull the front off pull engine and gearbox out split gearbox off and flywheel, with 150k only a fool would not do the dmf and clutch at same time, would also while out do away with the dmf filter in exhaust or fit new one,, would also think about putting a cartridge in the turbo for piece of mind as well , thats all the main things that will destroy that engine anytime soon, and so much easier while the engine and gearbox are out,
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
cheers mike i thought that was the way to go...... well here we go again another mini front end off and engine out job.
rob
 

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cheers mike i thought that was the way to go...... well here we go again another mini front end off and engine out job.
rob
story of my life reckon could blind fold me and would be able to strip on down lol, its best to undo the aircon condenser and put it somewhere safe and regas it when your all done and car all runs right again, would only use febi or genuine chain kits and with the latest tensioners for sure, to be honest best to go genuine from the off its one of those jobs really only what to do it once so best to fit good parts as redoing it will make your swear a lot i know i have done this before used customers bought parts to find something was not right etc,
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah i know where your coming from...... full engine rebuild on a cooper D that had spun a rod bearing a petrol cooper r56 that the timing chain had gone same again full engine rebuild,i seem to spend most of my time under them than rather than in the bloody things.
 

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Yeah i know where your coming from...... full engine rebuild on a cooper D that had spun a rod bearing a petrol cooper r56 that the timing chain had gone same again full engine rebuild,i seem to spend most of my time under them than rather than in the bloody things.
trouble is not many other cars on the road are much better or worse it would seem these days, at least it keeps us busy
 

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while the motor is out I'd use the opportunity to remove the sump and wash any crap out, check or renew shells, and from around the top end etc, layout is simpler than the other motors so a no brainer,

also this close to having the head accessible and at 150k knowing these coke up like the petrol motors and pit the exhaust seats as well as have stem seal wear I'd be inclined to deal with that tbh,

WP_20200910_035.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When i rebuilt the mini cooper clubman D[not the bmw engine] i did all as mentioned above and spent a week decoking the head and inlet manifold and could not believe the amount of sludge and crap that was blocking everything up and it had only done 86000 miles i am surprised it ran at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
And another thing i have used the FAI timing kits on the other french engined mini rebuilds so do you think there ok to use on these bmw engines.
 

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this whilst not choking it as much as a petrol might at the same mileage, has only 58k, and notably is compacted at the valve guide which can lead to poor seating,

I'd also wash out the complete inlet and EGR cooler, or valve also, the swirl system in the plastic manifold will work a lot better clean, they can jam up,

personally on this I chose the OEM chain parts, just using an Elring head gasket of the correct notch markings, a bit dearer but knew I was getting the latest parts, it was only to sell the car anyway but wanted it a bit nicer etc.

on your model being before end of 2013 the crank is the old style which is said to be a contributor towards lower (main) chain wear due to the tooth profile, something I'd look at feeding the new chain over the teeth just to see what it's doing, I think they blunted the profile later maybe, not much you can do about it but worth observing,

I also changed the pump chain, often people don't on any of them, daft imo.
WP_20200917_041.jpg
 

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this whilst not choking it as much as a petrol might at the same mileage, has only 58k, and notably is compacted at the valve guide which can lead to poor seating,

I'd also wash out the complete inlet and EGR cooler, or valve also, the swirl system in the plastic manifold will work a lot better clean, they can jam up,

personally on this I chose the OEM chain parts, just using an Elring head gasket of the correct notch markings, a bit dearer but knew I was getting the latest parts, it was only to sell the car anyway but wanted it a bit nicer etc.

on your model being before end of 2013 the crank is the old style which is said to be a contributor towards lower (main) chain wear due to the tooth profile, something I'd look at feeding the new chain over the teeth just to see what it's doing, I think they blunted the profile later maybe, not much you can do about it but worth observing,

I also changed the pump chain, often people don't on any of them, daft imo.
View attachment 281934
i also totally agree with you on these N47 diesels engines genuine parts a must , also better when come to sell it again with proof of parts
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Has anybody got the timing locking tool set that they would like to sell for this engine.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Btw got all the febi chains and tensioners just on the look out for cam sprocket and high pressure fuel pump sprocket if anybody can advise.
Rob
 

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