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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My belt is not in good shape and is causing the tensioner to make all sorts of rattling noises. A bit worrying, thought I had the dreaded cam chain rattle of death.

Everything is quiet with a spray of anti squeal, but we all know that will only last a couple of days.

So I need to change the belt. Does anyone have a guide as to how you release the belt tension?

Thanks.
 

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there is a locking pin hole on them and the trick is keep old belt on and get a lever bar in to pull the tensioner with the old belt to the locking pin hole and insert a 5mm pin to lock the tensioner off, or i use a length of rope and pull the belt upwards as far as can while someone puts the pin in if very tight, below link shows a new one with lock pin in it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I managed to do it with a long 10mm spanner and a * bit in the tensioner pulley. You have to remove the engine mount and drop the engine to get access and its all very tight.~

Found this: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r60-cooper-sd-all4-sav/repair-manuals/11-engine/ which was very useful for figuring out how to get access.

Having put it all together again, the noise is still there. Loud at idle, eases off by about 1500rpm. Its definately coming from the belt area, I have a stethoscope for locating engine noises, so I'm now wondering if its water pump bearings, alternator bearings or the tensioner at fault??

You can listen to it here:

Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No it was none of the above. I have a mate who many years ago was a tractor mechanic and he told me the noise was the vibration damper - i.e the crank pulley. On the car, it looked fine, but when removed, there was hairline crank where the rubber met the metal outer part of the pulley that allowed the outer part to move from side to side. Having been raped at Vines BMW to the tune of £330 for a new one, I refitted it and the noise has totally disappeared.

Apparently these are also a failure point off the N47 especially when chipped. Mines been chipped for 50k of its 70k miles as its slower than a soft turd otherwise.
 

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HI Thanks for your post I'm chasing exactly the same problem on the wives 2.0 SD Countryman All4 here in New Zealand. Rattling at idle but goes a way with increase in RPM and like you I thought it was timing chain.Today I pulled the cover off and had a look around I noticed the vibration damper has cracks in the rubber but to be perfectly honest I thought nothing more of it. I can easily rock the pulley radially and the cracks show up so I'll replace this. I believe the manual says if you have this off to replace the crankshaft seals (special tools required) Many thanks Socelt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Its not too hard to do. I would not worry about the crank seals.

You need to undo and remove the engine mount from the pulley end of the engine. Both parts!

This enables you to lower the engine and get a Torx key (T30 I think) in the end of the tensioner. You will need a torx bit from a 10mm set, and ideally weld it to a piece of bar. With a lot of fiddling I used one of thse bits ( https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/6159215?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Lighting_Promotions-_-Cash_Cows|Seasonal-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-296303633664&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!383272960034!!!g!296303633664!&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_absBRD1ARIsAO4_D3sapArxaonBV4lJKL4vVyaG5Fn6IhuIo4ZKlKdEDVlakflqPVYgtdgaAl7cEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds ) and a very long (about 300mm) 10mm spanner. The objective is to make it as thin in terms of standoff as possible. Then you can get in by loosening the fixings for the front wheel arch liner. Use a rattle gun on the 4 bolts on the pulley and it all comes apart easily.

You will need a drip tray as removing the pulley opens the oil system up.
 

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HI Thanks for your help its greatly appreciated. I will have a go at it when the parts come to hand. I will replace the belt at the same time I'll let you know how I get on if its the same result you had, might take a while to get the parts in New Zealand. cheers..... Socelt
 

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Hi,
I have the same issue with the vibration damper pulley. Please can you clarify if i need some sort of support for the engine if i remove the engine mount. A little confused with what happens when the top engine mounts are removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi,
I have the same issue with the vibration damper pulley. Please can you clarify if i need some sort of support for the engine if i remove the engine mount. A little confused with what happens when the top engine mounts are removed.
You need to support the engine on a trolley jack when you undo the top mount. Then you can lower the engine until it will drop no further and its just about possible to do the procedure I described above. Its very tight and fiddly to do the tensioner, but perseverance and a long (like 300mm+) 10mm spanner to hold the torx bit will see you through.
 

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Hi,
I have the same issue with the vibration damper pulley. Please can you clarify if i need some sort of support for the engine if i remove the engine mount. A little confused with what happens when the top engine mounts are removed.
Motor vehicle Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Car

This worked for me there is a lifting eye on the engine you may have to unclip a heavy electrical lead to access the lifting eye
 

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Thank you for replying to my question very much appreciated!
Before you changed the Crankshaft Damper Pulley did you notice it wobbling when the engine was on?
I had a rattling noise coming from it and it was diagnosed from a mini specialist that the pulley needs changing. I had a look over the weekend tried to move it with the belt on to see if there was any movement but there wasn't any. Now the rattling has disappeared. :unsure:
 
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