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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. I’m new to this forum and very happy to have found it.
I am doing my very first timing chain ever.
2008 N12 R56
My kit didn’t come with a new crankshaft hub bolt. My question is, can I buy the same bolt at a hardware store?
I’ve tried the local auto parts here in Dallas, Tx to no avail.
Thanks in advance
 

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below link , 40nm plus 120 degrees stretch use once,
or
cam bolts,,,, 20nm plus 90 degrees plus 90 degrees to tighten them as stretch bolts, use once only
 

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locking kit below as cheap ones go not bad , laser tools and draper do the best ones,, do your home work on fitting and setting the timing up as all sprockets free wheel and must be set correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I bought the blue cam locking kit.
I bought a new timing chain kit but it didn’t come with a new crankshaft hub bolt.
my question is since it is Sunday here in Texas, can I use the same size bolt if I bought one from a local hardware store? As long as it is the exact same dimensions?
 

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it must be a stretch bolt otherwise over time with heat and cold and loads can lose its tension and when it does thats end of your valves head off job add another £300 in parts o repair to timing chain job and a two days of stress etc, just not worth the risk
 

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As Mike says, definite no on using anything other than the torque to yield bolt. Best place to get one in USA is a MINI dealership if one close or by mail order. Do not be tempted to re-use the old one either as it is already stretched and may snap. The bottom crank/oil sprockets are dry to dry surfaces so clean all oil off them before assembly and put a bit of oil in the crank end female threaded hole aspect before inserting your new bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I’m 58 years old and this is my first timing chain ever so I’ve been doing tons of reading, except of course what all is in the kit I ordered. Doh!
Live and learn. I was sure just hoping to get this thing on the road today.
I love this little car!! Can’t wait to drive it.
Thank you very much for your help.
 

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below link might be useful to you
also must mimic the preload on the timing chain tensioner with the dummy tensioner when setting the free wheeling sprockets on cams and crank then ni them up 20nm on cams 40nm on crank then rotate engine 4 times relock the locks if timing correctly will just fall back on if dont lose off inlet cam bolt and reset and retry,, also recheck with spring tensioner in if still in time put dummy tensioner tool back in and then do the stretch process on the cam bolts and crank bolts,, ie do crankshaft bolt first ie its already set at 40nm then add 120 degrees, ie 4ft bar will be needed,, can leave crank pin in and level on that to hold the crankshaft,,, BUT DO NOT USE THE CAM LOCKS TO WRENCH AGAINST WHEN ADDING THE PLUS 180 DEGREES,,,
ALSO WARNING USE A THIN 27MM SPANNER TO HOLD CAMSHAFTS WITH SO NO PRESSURE ON LOCK TOOLS AS THEY BEND,, check and double check its all a process that must be checked at each part with setting the sprockets to cams and crank,, and only when 100% sure do you move on to the stretch part,, little tip do crankshaft bolt first as you can change timing off the camshafts at any point before doing the stretch part on bolts
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you Mike. Very helpful.
Just a note, I have been installing auto glass for 40 years.
if anyone ever needs any help with glass, I would be most happy to help.
 

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always handy but i'm lazy these days got glass cover on all my cars, i work in the trade and gone are the days of tubes of tiger seal and wire saw blades lol. if you get stuck just ask nothing is taken as a silly question costs nothing to ask something, i've been doing these chains for years and years now i even get garages phone me up and ask if i will go do them from time to time,, the main thing you do when doing it is check and recheck it cost nothing to unlock and relock and rotate the engine as many times as to when you feel happy its timed correctly,, IF ENGINE WONT TURN EASY AND SUDDENLY STOPS TURNING THEN DONT FORCE IT TIMING MIGHT BE OUT AND VALVE DO GET BENT IF FORCED IT SHOULD WITH ALL SPARK PLUGS OUT ROTATE EASY WITH A SOCKET WRETCH ON CRANK BOLT,
another tip get two metal rods same length that will fit is number 1 and number 2 spark plug holes ie drop them in holes and rotate the engine until both are even height and the writing on camshafts are pointing upwards,, this will put the hole that is for locating locking pin on flywheel as close as can be,, then use 18mm socket on crankshaft bolt to nudge the crank each way until the pin goes in and looks the crankshaft,,,,,, WARNING ITS POSSIBLE TO LOCK THE CRANK ONE WAY ONLY AND THATS WRONG WHEN CORRECTLY LOCKED IT WILL NOT ROTATE NO MATTER HOW MUCH FORCE YOU PUT ON THE BOLT,, also you must lock the engine before removing chain or undoing the bolts to ensure no damage to valves etc,,
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Mike for all of your help and knowledge.
Before I put the valve cover back on, would it be ok to flush/wash with degreaser or something similar the top engine inside to get all junk out?
Of course I’ll be doing an oil change rather quickly following this.
 

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I'll jump in. I do not recommend washing/flushing the engine. Modern oils already have detergents in them and regular oil changes are enough to remove suspended 'junk' as you call it. By all means clean the underside of the cover but leave the cams and internals well alone. If you have a lot of gunge in there then you may have other problems that need investigating. Washing or flushing can release junk into areas you don't want it, i.e. the small oil galleries, VVT solenoids, etc. I would do a simple oil/filter change and leave it at that.
 

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i have a different view on it i have always used a engine flush at oil change times the brand i believe in is seafoam it just melts it all turns it back in to a liquid, i've rebuilt many engines over the years and what kills them is crud build up, ie have had cars that left a blue smoke screen behind them and after a cleaner and run it clears it, also add on top the design of all these new emissions cars is to collect as much carbon in the oil and prevent it leaving the tail pipe so wont be counted on its tail pipe foot print, as for crud entering the vvt system wont hurt that,, as for the vanos sprockets that rotate the variable timing these are protected by the main filter, and the gauze filters on the solenoid valves 10 minute job to clean off once and a while, that said on all cars i service with these systems and always check after 40k then stay clean due to the crankcase being so clean from seafoam flushes and also 10.000 mile oil changes once a year,
would i stick a can of it in a engine that had done 100.000 miles and had done 20.000 miles since last oil change,, no what i would do is change the oil add half a can then run it for 100 miles, then dump the oil then wait for next service and do a full can run it 20 miles then change oil,
as for oils having cleaners already in them there are many oils dont clean very well and nothing cleans like seafoam does, reality is that carbon build up in any engines hurts them, with the prince engines and honestly it is this way i have rebuilt a lot of them is that they run so hot ie 109c where oil is only tested to 100c and thats expensive oils maybe cheaper ones are not and dont have as much as a cleaning effect,, liquid boils at 100c any liquid from breather systems will get cooked on to the internals of the engine as oil runs a lot hotter than coolant temps this effects old oil etc and shorts trips where engine never gets hot enough all take a toll on it ,
this all said you are correct its always a maybe ie some hard crud might block up something i've been doing it for 35 years now and to be honest the engines that get effected are already buggered anyway and trying to clean them was a last resort before a engine rebuild ,, ie the crud is the only thing that seals worn out piston rings,, best way is change oil every 6k and always drive it until it ht running temps before switching off again, 15 20k 24 months service times destroy engines
added point you can buy 20 litres of low saps fully synthetic oil at europarts for around £40 thats 4 oil changes for just over a tenner
 

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Hi, new to the forum and have been reading with interest, particularly the words of wisdom from Mike1967 which are invaluable to a novice amateur as myself. I have a 2007 Cooper, N12, timing appears to be out loads…

Getting together all the bits & tools etc with a view to repairing this weekend.
One thing that I don’t think I’ve read on here is differing torque specs for the crank bolt. As this is pretty critical in the set up I thought I’d share. In summary it looks like the bolt was shortened from 74mm to 70mm and soon after the torque increased from 40Nm to 50Nm.
Sorry, first post so it won't let me do links...See:- minideathrattle.weebly.com/uploads/2/8/0/6/28063917/bulletin_si_m11_02_07.pdf
And this
workshop-manuals.com/mini/cooper_s_(r56)/l4-1.6l_turbo_(n14)/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/cylinder_block_assembly/harmonic_balancer_crankshaft_pulley/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/engine_incorrect_crankshaft_central_bolt_torque_change/
According to realoem.com/ this bolt history is
2006-2008 11217548156 M14X74
2008-2011 11217585184 M14X74
From 2011 11217616164 M14X70 (shorter fixing)
The current shorter fixing was issued Jan 11 and the service bulletin changed increased the torque in Apr 2011.
I believe the current Peugeot fixing is 1606466680 which is M14X74. Don’t know their torque spec.
I’m thinking I might go for the Peugeot bolt (cheaper?) and torque to 50Nm.
Also, I think the cam shaft Peugeot bolts are 080677
Lastly, the bit that is bothering me is undoing & tightening said bolt without the special holding tool. I’ve considered 2 slave bolts in the sprocket hub & ring spanner around one, lever against another…. Making a tool from some bar or angle… or putting it in 6th and a mate pushing on the brakes and going for it. Any advice on this would be appreciated
 
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