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Joshua Peet
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I replaced the engine in my 2007 r56 about 3 months ago - all seemed well until yesterday.

The friction wheel that drives the water pump from the belt has failed. When I say failed, I mean it snapped off.

This in turn jammed the crankshaft pulley, sheering it from its mount on the engine.

Now, I know I've got to replace the friction wheel (that one that moves up and down) as well as the crankshaft pulley... my only concern is that the mount for the crankshaft pulley on the engine is absolutley fucked. (The rim which the pulley sits on is now somewhere on the A617).

Anybody know if i can strip the mount off of my old engine and put it onto the new one?

Will it mess up my timing if I try to swap them?

See images attached to better explain what I mean - andy help would be amazing.
275498
275497
 

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22 Posts
Hi.
I have only done timing chain replacement on my mini, but unfortunately You will have to lock the engine to ba 100% sure that nothing has moved. Of cource You could try but consequences are terrible. I would be sweating like bomb disposal team member
Also You will have to replace crankshaft pulley bolt and as far as i remember seal.


1 x​
Hub
11237537697
£ 54.67​
£ 54.67​
1 x​
Hex Bolt
11217616164
£ 6.25​
£ 6.25​

this is from there https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike-spare-parts/Catalogue_14000.html

Shaft seal check there:

Hope this will help
 

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Joshua Peet
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the help everyone.
Finally got around to taking the cover off it today. I’m setting all of the shafts back into time and then just gonna hope for the best.
I know where I went wrong with the crank bolt - I tightened it to 50nm whereas you are meant to tighten to 50nm + 180deg of rotation. Lol. I’ll let you know how it goes tomorrow!
 

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7,414 Posts
no you still have that wrong i fear,
ok so what you need to do is this,
1, do the bolt up to 50nm,
2 stretch the stretch bolt ie crankshaft still locked i mark the bolt with tipex and add a mark on the engine case 100degress away from that mark clockwise ie direction to tighten the bolt or should say to stretch the bolt, the cam shaft bolts ar sort of the same but are set to 20nm plus 180degress on both bolts.. ie always do them 20nm plus 90 plus 90 as its easier on the bolts
 

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Joshua Peet
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
no you still have that wrong i fear,
ok so what you need to do is this,
1, do the bolt up to 50nm,
2 stretch the stretch bolt ie crankshaft still locked i mark the bolt with tipex and add a mark on the engine case 100degress away from that mark clockwise ie direction to tighten the bolt or should say to stretch the bolt, the cam shaft bolts ar sort of the same but are set to 20nm plus 180degress on both bolts.. ie always do them 20nm plus 90 plus 90 as its easier on the bolts
I'll make sure to do that. Can I double check with you about the flywheel.. Is there only one locking hole on it? And if it's locked in that hole is it 100% in the corrent position (btdc)?
 

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7,414 Posts
yes only one locking hole, its found be all 4 pistons are at same height in the bores and when locked you can not turn crankshaft either way,, there is a possible way to lock it one way only this is not the correct locking place on flyweel, IE MUST WHEN PIN IN PUT SOCKET ON BOTTOM BOLT ON CRANKSHAFT AND TRY AND TURN IT BOTH WAYS WITH PLENTY OF FORCE IF IT WONT MOVE THEN THATS CORRECT
that engine does not lock at tdc it locks at 90 degrees ie all pistons equal travel
 

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I found it tricky to get the lock pin in at first. I was hoping that I could get the flywheel 'nearly there' then keep some pressure on the pin whilst an assistant rotated the crank the last little bit and the pin would push in.

What actually happened is that there appeared to be a tiny collar or somesuch around the hole that the pin would sit against and would stop the crank turning.

At this point I would withdraw the pin a mm or 2, get the assistant to rotate the crank a tiny bit.

By putting the pin in now, putting some pressure on it whilst the crank is turned really slowly, the pin is actually already in the hole or should now slide in after coming past the edge of the collar.

I hope this make sense! It got easier after the 12th or 13th time. :)

Also, my kit was a cheap and cheerful one and the pin needed sanding a little before it fit properly.
 
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