Today was the day I Re torque my cylinder head. The products I will be using today are Arp bolt lube and bolt Security check paint which is optional of course.
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On to it I used my 1/2 drive with a extension and adapter to 3/8th with a 16mm socket for my ARP Cylinder head studs with bolts. It has been roughly over a 1000 miles probably closer to 2000 miles. The interval for this is pretty loosely based on how the one doing wants to do it. You can go for 1000 days then Re torque you can wait 24 hours then re torque. Or in my case about 1000 miles.
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I started by using just a drop of ARP lube in between the seam of the bolt and thread; with the 1st bolt in the ARP sequence I loosen the bolt 1/4 turn then I grab my torque wrench ; that is set at
72 pounds and torque the head, at this point this is the first stage of the re torque; as the final ARP torque spec is 75 pounds. At the 72 pound torque I dicovered that bolt 4 was loose and that bolt 6 was under tension.
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After I go through the entire sequence of 10 bolts. I double back in my case I want to use both torque wrenches I have to Cross examine the bolts. Setting the torque wrenches at 75 ft. pounds.
Now that I am finished I want to use security check paint for bolts. It can be sloppy so I spent about 20 minutes lightly dabbing the paint until I was just a faded mark.
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Now that I am complete with this part of the job I will move on to assembling the rest of what I have to sense I installed my new mishimoto radiator hose kit. That being said I felt confident in my re torque as I had completely drained the coolant of the system using a air hose on each item in the system as I was removing hoses. Engine block and long heater hoses holding the most coolant. I also removed my heater core and drained that also due to me using the radiator fill tool which requires zero coolant in the system. I.E. so a new heater core hardware kit was installed when re installing the heater core.
On to it I used my 1/2 drive with a extension and adapter to 3/8th with a 16mm socket for my ARP Cylinder head studs with bolts. It has been roughly over a 1000 miles probably closer to 2000 miles. The interval for this is pretty loosely based on how the one doing wants to do it. You can go for 1000 days then Re torque you can wait 24 hours then re torque. Or in my case about 1000 miles.
I started by using just a drop of ARP lube in between the seam of the bolt and thread; with the 1st bolt in the ARP sequence I loosen the bolt 1/4 turn then I grab my torque wrench ; that is set at
72 pounds and torque the head, at this point this is the first stage of the re torque; as the final ARP torque spec is 75 pounds. At the 72 pound torque I dicovered that bolt 4 was loose and that bolt 6 was under tension.
After I go through the entire sequence of 10 bolts. I double back in my case I want to use both torque wrenches I have to Cross examine the bolts. Setting the torque wrenches at 75 ft. pounds.
Now that I am finished I want to use security check paint for bolts. It can be sloppy so I spent about 20 minutes lightly dabbing the paint until I was just a faded mark.
Now that I am complete with this part of the job I will move on to assembling the rest of what I have to sense I installed my new mishimoto radiator hose kit. That being said I felt confident in my re torque as I had completely drained the coolant of the system using a air hose on each item in the system as I was removing hoses. Engine block and long heater hoses holding the most coolant. I also removed my heater core and drained that also due to me using the radiator fill tool which requires zero coolant in the system. I.E. so a new heater core hardware kit was installed when re installing the heater core.
