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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
Thanks Mike, I guess I need to setup all the lock tools again and see if the cam tool fits straight on. If it does I make sure both cams are vertically straight.
Will I have to undo both sprocket bolts only to reset with tool to correct timing or do I need to release cam chain tensioner too.
Once tickover has settled down,its approx 750rpm
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i would buy new cam bolts again leave crank bolt , undo both camshafts replace the bolts and leave tensioner in,,, CAUTION TO DO IT THIS WAY MUST NOT KNOCK THE VANOS SPROCKETS AND DO ONE AT A TIME ,,, IE GET BOLT IN FAST TO FINGER TIGHT THEN DO NEXT ONE,, ALSO MUST HOLD THE CAMSHAFTS WHEN DOING THEM UP AGAIN ,
pays to do the exhaust sprocket first, then inlet when do them up and do the plus 90 plus 90 degrees stretch part
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 · (Edited)
Undo nothing just yet,but refitted the tool. It fits on easy after locking it all off,but I can slide a 20 thou feeler gauge in three quarters of the way down between tool. Can you tell me what side I should fit the gauge if Its currently retartded on the side nearest front of car or nearer intake side. That being said do I put a 0.20mm/ .008 thou gauge in or less?
Is it also Best to completely tighten exhaust sprocket plus 90 plus 90 then move onto inlet?
Both bolts in at once finger tight to start off with.
Thanks Mike👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #264 ·
Just some pics of the cams set and the DTC error on my scanner,with a snapshot of the specifics while running if it helps I'm not sure!.
PXL_20210521_150249912.jpg PXL_20210521_150605054.jpg PXL_20210521_141200874.jpg PXL_20210521_140929692.jpg
 

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you need to look at the tool gaps to the head for ex cam and tool gap to tool for in cam I would say, does this correlate to the lash in the tool in any way? If so it may be some clue as to the feeler size you use to bias the cams clockwise in the tool, ex first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
Didn't think of that.I will get the micrometer on each width between the flats of the cams and then measure the tool width and try it. I guess I can leave the In cam as it's not showing an error.
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exclusive said what i would of said bang on, need to live data the vanos sprocket position when engine running see what you get , ie if timing is advancing and retarding when engine under load
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
After reading a similar issue on here with fault codes P0014 and P0015 same as what I now have,the guy sorted his with a refurb head. He also mentions it can be fixed,as the exhaust cam bearing nearest the vanos sprocket was spilling more oil out that the others,so the oil was not operating the ex vanos sprocket correctly. I think he mentioned a new cam bearing and the upgraded rectangrings to a one piece from the metal open ended ones. The upgrade stops the wear into the bearing from the old style metal rings,and the vanos sprocket works properly.

Could this be my issue Mike,you commented on that thread also?
I only got the P0014 error after driving the car a short distance.

Cheers again,I am beginning to dislike this complex engine
 

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After reading a similar issue on here with fault codes P0014 and P0015 same as what I now have,the guy sorted his with a refurb head. He also mentions it can be fixed,as the exhaust cam bearing nearest the vanos sprocket was spilling more oil out that the others,so the oil was not operating the ex vanos sprocket correctly. I think he mentioned a new cam bearing and the upgraded rectangrings to a one piece from the metal open ended ones. The upgrade stops the wear into the bearing from the old style metal rings,and the vanos sprocket works properly.

Could this be my issue Mike,you commented on that thread also?
I only got the P0014 error after driving the car a short distance.

Cheers again,I am beginning to dislike this complex engine
ha ha penny dropped what i been point you at lol, and yep these engines are a mine field of chocolate in fact some times think chocolate would of been a better material to what they have used at times, you can see just how there is no one answer to most questions and most are a check list etc,,
think first off you need to fit oil pressure gauge, see what the pressure is, then run car see at what oil pressure it throws the code,, ie might be oil pump issue,, if is oil pressure issue then chances are not the camshaft maybe,, once know oil pressure is still giving 40psi to 80psi when hot and at 3k revs and over ie when the vanos starts to really work is higher revs,, once know you have pressure then its a back to camshafts,,, i think i have two N12 16b camshafts from a psa car that are known good,, they came off a cracked head and the car had 70k on it they lock like new to be honest think i have the journal caps as well if you get stuck can have them £40 each plus postage ,, but before you did replace them you must check the head surface where the oil rings sit i use a my nail see if have a lip or not, its the camshaft them selves that wear on inner surfaces where oil rings sit,, its possible to use 1200mm wet and dry on a piece of glass to remove a few thou off the surface of journal ends caps this will make up for any ridges in the head and journal surfaces so can be used again and not need to replace the head as such,, i've done a few like this to date and cars are still running well 3 years later ,, as the ring is gripped in the head and journal cap surfaces and should not rotate but when wear they rotate hence the ridges..
even i buy something from time to time and catch myself out,, bought honda crv a little while ago with oil pump chain gone, all the engines from a crv were over £1000 for a low miles,, so bought a 78k civic engine,,, ho turns out everything except the block is not the same,, only found this little cherry when i had dropped engine back in ,, and exhaust would not match up,,, so its now back out on floor and going to strip it to bare block swap it over,, thought i was doing well when i found that engine ie plug and play had wiring harness starter alternator everything on it,, now a good days work swapping it over,,, private message me if want them bits or any others i got most things might have a rocker cover and pcv pipe somewhere even have inlet manifolds,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
Cheers Mike, I certainly will if I need those parts will come in handy. I do the check of oil pressure once I source a gauge out. Just hope I can save the head as I do not want to go that route.
👍👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
Will a cheap £20 oil pressure tester be ok Mike like us pro or a China made one. Some state they do oil and compression in one gauge but I'm not sure on this as one is air other liquid.
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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
So the us pro oil pressure tester arrived but no adapters fit my head. Can anyone tell me the actual diameter and thread pitch I need to source, to fit the mini head and any big stores I could probably get one local over the weekend.
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Discussion Starter · #275 · (Edited)
In China Mike going to take a while and don't fancy waiting that long.just seen one on Amazon delivery for tomorrow. I'm wondering if a plumbers store might have one too.
Is the 1/8 npt the same as 9mm/10mm to fit gauge pipe
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Next day delivery from Amazon exactly the same part Mike. I tested oil pressure once engine warmed up and had around 50 psi at about 3- 3.5 rev range. 20 psi on idle.
Can the cam sensor play up even tho it's getting power to cause p0015
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cam shaft rings next port of call and would do the vanos sprocket at same time then its al ruled out future proof would be my direction if were in front of me,
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
Got the ex cam off and I have a lip on the cam cap cover,just the 1 side tho,other ring on outer edge no lip.Nothing really on the head.
The cam itself doesn't look worn from what I could see where the rings sat from the photos I took attached below. PXL_20210531_145944084~2.jpg PXL_20210531_144933984~2.jpg
 

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that inner wear could do it dont take much to let oil pressure bleed away , also the two rings were they set 180 degrees a apart like would do with piston rings it forces the oil to go long way around on any leak past as such
 
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