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Discussion Starter · #281 ·
I couldn't say for sure Mike,but while it was fitted the rings did seem apart like pistons rings are done,as I turned each by hand so I could see the gaps together at the top,and 2nd ring took longer than first to show.
So you suggest new Ex vanos sprocket and could I take the cap surface down to make rings tight again. Only thing is how much do I need to take off that cap and I suppose I will not know until car is running again.
If not what would you suggest.
Cheers
 

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its possible to buy the new rings from main dealers the latest spec ones are plastic sound like bmw and psa worked out a lot of failures from them or maybe down to cost savings only they know the true reasons, i would be inclined to fit new vanos and new oil rings to camshaft ,,, would only fit genuine ones truscots Peugeot are cheapest i have found and same parts,, ie like for like year and engine,, so n12 16b is same as psa 1.6vti in 207 and 308 same years,,, they always ask for a reg number so i find a random car on ebays and use that reg number to order such parts,, worth trying both see which is cheapest
 

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Discussion Starter · #283 · (Edited)
Am I fine in just fitting a ex vanos sprocket and the rings to that cam.
What about cap cover,leave as it is and fit the new rings.
A quick check on the locked cams was showing about 8 thou/0.15-0.20mm off from edge to edge of not being completely flat.
Think I have seen rings from BMW £13 each🥴
Also NeoBrothers have vanos sprocket which I guess is oem.
They do list 2 solenoids tho, one cheaper than the other. Seems like one is genuine mini,other own brand maybe.
Just highlighting they may not do just genuine BMW parts?
 

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anything neo sell is good , as for cam locks all you can di is get them where you think looks even and go with it, the ecu will trim some if not all that out when engine runs and vanos do what they do as such , Peugeot dealers sell genuine vanos for £58 tend to have in stock , once again neo are good, as for solonoids genuine better in my book at east them when back together you know its all as its meant to be etc,,
 

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prob have same wear in head think its a try and see moment ,, like said before no someone who used 1200mm wet and dry on a piece of glass and wd40 and gently rubbed the area that goes to head and reduced the wear by that and seem to have worked one of those worth a punt as last resort as such,
 

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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
So mystery still goes on. Replaced ex vanos sprocket with a new item,new plastic type oil rings but still have error p0014/P0015. Camshaft B advance and retarded error codes.
I tried running the cam cap on Emery polishing paper but maybe not enough was taken off,as it's very fine.
Anywhere else to look at that can cause these codes. ???
If I was to pull camshaft position sensor from each cam in turn,should the car start to run rough,to rule out a faulty sensor.
What would be the next port of call for this bloody engine?
What would happen if I just left it as is and drive it,as it seems to run ok.

Cheers all,very dejected now 😒
 

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So mystery still goes on. Replaced ex vanos sprocket with a new item,new plastic type oil rings but still have error p0014/P0015. Camshaft B advance and retarded error codes.
I tried running the cam cap on Emery polishing paper but maybe not enough was taken off,as it's very fine.
Anywhere else to look at that can cause these codes. ???
If I was to pull camshaft position sensor from each cam in turn,should the car start to run rough,to rule out a faulty sensor.
What would be the next port of call for this bloody engine?
What would happen if I just left it as is and drive it,as it seems to run ok.

Cheers all,very dejected now 😒
What causes the P0014 code?
  • The exhaust camshaft has advanced too much when the ECM has commanded the camshaft to retard to a lower timing level.
  • The oil viscosity is excessive causing the passages to become clogged, causing oil flow to and from the camshaft phasers to be restrictive.
  • The camshaft phaser is seized in the advanced position.
  • The oil control solenoid to the bank 1 camshaft may be shorted in the open position.
was crankcase very dirty before rebuild poss restricted oil way in head maybe , oil solonoids do fail as do ecu's think next thing would be to see if the feeds to solonoids are present ie are then swap solonoids inlet to exhaust see if fault moves with the change if does solonoid faulty
 

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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
Hi Mike ,not really dirty in the sump,I imagined it would be and nothing really in the case of metal particles either.
That was my last thought to swap over the solenoids. Will try that.
How much oil should pool below the cam sprocket down onto the valves. I thought I had quite a bit from just turning it over with starter and valve cover off.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #290 ·
So no difference after giving the solenoids a good clean again and swapping them around. At a loss now as to the next phase of repairing these errors.
How could I tell if ECU is not working correctly then.
Cheers
 

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So no difference after giving the solenoids a good clean again and swapping them around. At a loss now as to the next phase of repairing these errors.
How could I tell if ECU is not working correctly then.
Cheers
Screenshot (272).png
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above screen shot of ecu pin outs and what you should get and when as such
Screenshot (272).png
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Screenshot (268).png
 

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Discussion Starter · #292 ·
I am not the best with testing electrics, but where would I start and how can my multimeter see e.g. (2v50ms).
Where do the test leads go for each test of on/off etc. Is this all done with the cables fitted to ecu and they need to be probed??
I might just have to throw the towel in at this rate😤. An ex-mini technician seems to think it might be the timing still out as they really need to be bang on as you say Mike.
 

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I am not the best with testing electrics, but where would I start and how can my multimeter see e.g. (2v50ms).
Where do the test leads go for each test of on/off etc. Is this all done with the cables fitted to ecu and they need to be probed??
I might just have to throw the towel in at this rate😤. An ex-mini technician seems to think it might be the timing still out as they really need to be bang on as you say Mike.
yes need to probe the wire connectors at the component and at the ecu plug if find a open circuit as such this will rule out harness or prove it at fault, you will have voltage changes at the oil solonoids when engine is rev'd if have no voltages then you will know its a wiring issue if have the voltages in that screen shots then its a mechanical issue ie they must be timed correctly
 

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will add if i had just rebuilt a engine and had this fault that never had before i would know something has gone wrong,
 

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a few years ago bought a peugeot 308gti ie same engines off this muppet who was selling it do to timing issues i asked him about oil use and has it ever been run low on oil i even explained i can tell once i pull it apart so might as well tell me the truth etc... he was adamant no it just started running rough etc,,, hmmm turned out car had been run out of oil all the bearing on big ends were dull and turning cooper colour hmmm not a good sign as if big ends are that bad worn the mains tend to be worse,,, i ended up pull engine out and had crank reground etc,,, as when car warmed up the oil pressure would drop to under 10psi and cause vanos and timing fault codes as not enough oil pressure to push against the vanos sprockets and chain tensioner,
i looked is paperwork for car and found a diagnostics invoice for that car 6 months before i had bought it,, so i phoned the garage and spoke to them on trade terms ie got car in trying to piece things together,, and yep they had diagnosed major engine damage due to and his words customer only adding oil when the red warning light on dash came on every 6 months or 2k it did seem about right for these engines then,
hence why i always tell people do the basics check oil pressure a must do job, trouble with the mains they are all parts of a single piece carriage and a engine out to do them ,,, hence engine refreshes work on engine with no lack of oil damage or over heated damage can also do same trick ,,, i rebuilt a engine last week on a vt t6 transporter after the owner keep driving when had low coolant warning on dash,, it got so hot it thinned the oil down so much it grabbed 3 main bearings and spun them in the block,,, damage was so bad needed new crankshaft and cylinder block,, but were lucky not to have done the head,, still think final bill was over 6k as turbo was destroyed ,,, engine oil dont like hot running ,,,
shame your not closer i would of popped over and had a look,,, below screen shot shows oil pressure what it should be,, ie 1.5bar at idle to 3bar at 3000 revs ,,, 14.7psi to 1 bar for ref,,,,
Screenshot (274).png
Screenshot (274).png

i got loads going on in my life at present so my time on here is not as much as i have been just seems since all the lock downs are off everyone needs cars fixing
 

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Discussion Starter · #298 ·
Hi Mike, no oil pressure test before stripdown. I have roughly those recommend oil pressures tho.
I have replaced water pump,belts, cam chain,tensioner,oil pump chain and sprocket,head gasket,piston rings,conrod bearings to crank. Also just replaced the ex cam sprocket and new plastic type oil rings on ex cam only.
I did use some very fine wet/dry on cam caps as some were scored and smoothed a couple of rough lines on them also.

Where should I see oil flowing from with valve cover removed and cranking. Noticeable I had a fair amount of oil coming from just inside on valve side next to sprockets. When it was cranking I was surprised oil did not go everywhere with cover removed.
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i would suspect the camshaft be worn perhaps if got a lot of oil being pushed out of first journal, as the sealing edges are more to do with camshaft surface than outer surface,,, that would be my best guess at this point and would sit with what someone else on here had same issue and he replaced the head complete. after doing everything you have done , way to tell is camshafts out and push the end cap into the rings while pushing the other side of ring flush with the camshaft grooves as such if rings do in so far that you can see a lip on where rings sit then shaft is worn out common on oil starved engines ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #300 · (Edited)
Do you think another ex camshaft and end cap will maybe sort the problem.
The car when I purchased it was having an overheating issue when driven for about 20mins,and the previous owner had also fitted a new oil filter housing so maybe it was starved of oil at some point.
 
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