Autel makes really good scan tools and some for only $499 U.S.
here is a more affordable one:
The other thread I just commented on sounds like something you might need to consider. That is raising the adjustment on the turbocharger actuator by one thread.
I just made the comment concerning B.O.V. or diverter valve. High mileage cars can benefit from raising the boost by 2psi. There are small you can do in the meantime aside of raising the boost. Which makes a lot of sense considering as the N18 get higher mileage the composite plastic, P.O.M. material,Teflon, etc whatever the material that the oil wiper rings are made out of wears away. Leaving soot in the combustion chambers, and blow by gasses into the crankcase.
The way in which I interpret this is that, the whether may play a part in all of this. Meaning your outside air temperature sensor on the inside of your front bumper. It may not be secured or just gone bad. That temp you see on the console behind the steering wheel lets you know what temp it is outside. Well that is two fold. It also lets the computer know how to set the air, fuel,timing,etc. along with a number of other things. So that may be your culprit. Sense you have no warning lights or apparent problems. Checking or replacing the the Vanos solenoid is also a option at that mileage if you have not already. As the old Solenoids can get clogged up: due to not having any screens built into them. A vanos does trigger a codes of sorts though So I would not suspect that.
Checking for air,and vacuum leaks on a turbo system is a good practice all along the intake hot and cold side of the turbo piping. Today was frigid where I live. I drove my Mini Cooper to Wal-Mart. And sense it is a new rebuilt engine it did not tick at all. Is your Mini Cooper Ticking real bad or just the standard ticking?
here is a more affordable one:
The other thread I just commented on sounds like something you might need to consider. That is raising the adjustment on the turbocharger actuator by one thread.
I just made the comment concerning B.O.V. or diverter valve. High mileage cars can benefit from raising the boost by 2psi. There are small you can do in the meantime aside of raising the boost. Which makes a lot of sense considering as the N18 get higher mileage the composite plastic, P.O.M. material,Teflon, etc whatever the material that the oil wiper rings are made out of wears away. Leaving soot in the combustion chambers, and blow by gasses into the crankcase.
The way in which I interpret this is that, the whether may play a part in all of this. Meaning your outside air temperature sensor on the inside of your front bumper. It may not be secured or just gone bad. That temp you see on the console behind the steering wheel lets you know what temp it is outside. Well that is two fold. It also lets the computer know how to set the air, fuel,timing,etc. along with a number of other things. So that may be your culprit. Sense you have no warning lights or apparent problems. Checking or replacing the the Vanos solenoid is also a option at that mileage if you have not already. As the old Solenoids can get clogged up: due to not having any screens built into them. A vanos does trigger a codes of sorts though So I would not suspect that.
Checking for air,and vacuum leaks on a turbo system is a good practice all along the intake hot and cold side of the turbo piping. Today was frigid where I live. I drove my Mini Cooper to Wal-Mart. And sense it is a new rebuilt engine it did not tick at all. Is your Mini Cooper Ticking real bad or just the standard ticking?
