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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58 FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
not😂

(13) Mini R58 N14 FJCW with an interesting fault it doesn't know it has ;O) - YouTube

cam timing is good enough

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history of this car is it had chains, head strip, clean. seals, valves lapped, pistons out, cleaned, honed, rings, end shells, ARP rod bolts

then it had a major overheat while in use as a courtesy car which appears to be down to the aux coolant pump body splitting on the motorway, this melted the thermostat housing, rocker cover, and partial inlet manifold, adding a 0.014" warp to the head:mad: hey ho, moving on....

new OEM stat housing and updated harness, crossover pipe (again), aftermarket rocker cover, substitute inlet manifold, since replaced with original for testing, and also a used throttle housing due to a spring test fault recurring sporadically, and this time the head has ARP studs added, as it had also been remapped.

before the overheat it drove lovely, and immediately after the head repair it also went like stink, then started hunting and became erratic with some stalling after 15 miles, no stored faults since the original motorway overheat other than the throttle housing which was intermittent and now clear. The oil pump was a bit noisier on rerun and it did bring on the oil pressure light at junctions on initial road test which a switch didn't solve so have just swapped the scored pump and that's no longer a thing.

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adaptions have been reset after various bits swapped, just because.

bank 1 lambda also substituted for testing, diverter valve intact and spring good, PCV pipe intact and crankcase vac is good, vac pump vac present, wastegate holds vac and functions as does diverter in active tests.

the downstream lambda says 'not ready' I can see in live data in another clip, also smooth running data isn't populated where it is on a similar non JCW car here but that has other stuff going on, yet both are showing the same as this car on another JCW 'tuning kit' car here which runs great, HPFP actual/target are close, motor has no knock, no misfire count etc.

posting as am curious if people have had a car doing similar?
 

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I got one in at mo that just loves my company lol, this had a oil light on when engine gets hot 105c to 112c on idle and on a wet test oil pressure gauge could watch the oil pressure dump its self to zero, cause was cylinder head journals worn and inlet camshaft vanos oil control rings and the camshaft ,, stuck another head on it oil pressure came back right away to 40psi with fan on 112c on idle after 2 hours running etc, cure that problem, then for the next one was running ok then went for mot suddenly started misfiring and running rich big time, scanned it found codes for inlet pressure codes due to ecu failure no codes on ecu this car has been messed with before the owner bought it b some rip off prat and very sure he had ecu cleared of all trouble codes off self check, i put a factory file back in ecu and all the codes came up
  • No start
  • No communication with DME / engine ECU
  • Misfire
  • Limp mode


Common fault codes:

  • 2BD3 – Monitoring Power Supply 2 CY230 / Power Supply For Sensor 2 Power Supply Not Within Range
  • 2BD4 – Monitoring Power Supply 3 CY320 / Power Supply For Sensor 3 Power Supply Not Within Range
  • 2BD0 – DME Internal Failure
  • 2B0B - Throttle Valve Position Sensor 1/2 Faulty
  • 2B02 - Throttle Valve Position Sensor 1 Faulty
  • 2B06 - Throttle Valve Position Sensor 2 Faulty
  • 2848 - Fuel Pressure Sensor Faulty
  • P0641 – Sensor A Open Circuit
i'll send ecu off to below link cheapest way forward
thats the 15th one this year with ecu problems, i also get them where flag 6volts at oil control solonoid for vanos a lot or intermittant so car flags timing issues and when does it also causes a inlet pressure plausibility code from mis timed
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58 FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got one in at mo that just loves my company lol, this had a oil light on when engine gets hot 105c to 112c on idle and on a wet test oil pressure gauge could watch the oil pressure dump its self to zero, cause was cylinder head journals worn and inlet camshaft vanos oil control rings and the camshaft ,, stuck another head on it oil pressure came back right away to 40psi with fan on 112c on idle after 2 hours running etc, cure that problem, then for the next one was running ok then went for mot suddenly started misfiring and running rich big time, scanned it found codes for inlet pressure codes due to ecu failure no codes on ecu this car has been messed with before the owner bought it b some rip off prat and very sure he had ecu cleared of all trouble codes off self check, i put a factory file back in ecu and all the codes came up
  • No start
  • No communication with DME / engine ECU
  • Misfire
  • Limp mode


Common fault codes:

  • 2BD3 – Monitoring Power Supply 2 CY230 / Power Supply For Sensor 2 Power Supply Not Within Range
  • 2BD4 – Monitoring Power Supply 3 CY320 / Power Supply For Sensor 3 Power Supply Not Within Range
  • 2BD0 – DME Internal Failure
  • 2B0B - Throttle Valve Position Sensor 1/2 Faulty
  • 2B02 - Throttle Valve Position Sensor 1 Faulty
  • 2B06 - Throttle Valve Position Sensor 2 Faulty
  • 2848 - Fuel Pressure Sensor Faulty
  • P0641 – Sensor A Open Circuit
i'll send ecu off to below link cheapest way forward
thats the 15th one this year with ecu problems, i also get them where flag 6volts at oil control solonoid for vanos a lot or intermittant so car flags timing issues and when does it also causes a inlet pressure plausibility code from mis timed
I did wonder if there'd be more to the oil light on this one but when the head came off again I had a look over the journals and whilst there was some slight scoring I felt it was no worse than on some other cars I've had through here with no sign of the problem so tidied the marks up a little and carried on, I'd already heard the oil pump and knew it wasn't the same as before the overheat so stripped it and the scoring was pretty obvious

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I had another pump of a low mile motor so stripped that also to check it's state and it was near perfect so that went on instead

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hoping that issue has left the arena now

I have another one doing the oil light thing, and that's different, that one has a full bottom end, new over size pistons, ends and mains, had a used pump off the motor that came out of the car which only had a burnt valve, had an ebay head, rectangrings good, head stripped and cleaned as with the one above, and that car has had a consistent camshaft adjuster issue since put together, 287d and 287e, 2885 boost pressure also but that was vac hoses, and the oil light hot at idle,

this recently came apart and cams were checked, swapped for slightly better ones, scoring is on the journals which I just tidied a bit, cleaned out the solenoid and control valve, and fitted the later plastic rectangrings in the hope they might improve the seal being fresh etc. No such luck. I fitted a new oil pump as well and still the same, changed the oil and OEM filter today also checking the drain back and still the same, so save for the housing having an issue below the valve it's got to be the head,

so this car, the original motor was to be kept as a spare/donor but instead now has been honed, new rings, rod bolts, same bearings, and is waiting for the head to be cleaned and built just changing the burnt valve, and the original oil pump has been put back on. New chains etc. That will go together later next week perhaps and be in the car soon after and I hope it then behaves, just how it is but it does have an ebay head which is where the risk always was, like the car above, original C motor but an ebay head, it's original head destined for a forged build that was perhaps going to go in it later on with some development cams and gearbox with revised final drive for testing.

the feature car here is just annoying having nothing on offer code wise, only thing it did have was throttle housing, and a sporadic reverse light which is a cap-less bulb thing,

the car is driveable just under powered, erratic, no smoke, no miss, just won't fire until third go typically,

actually here is a better clip of it:

(15) Mini N14 FJCW that doesn't know it has an issue - YouTube

I note in lambda control the downstream sensor says not ready, where the second car mentioned in a similar clip shows its is, but then a third car here running fine after rebuild is a JCW tuning kit car that also says not ready, another similarity with car three is that in smooth running control no data is populated where it is in car two. Interesting, yet because of the third car running nicely it deters from investigating these two differences, barking up the wrong tree etc.

I figured if there's one person across the two forums I seem to live on that would be likely to have seen car one's type of behaviour it'd be our Mike haha.

I've also swapped the solenoid on car one with new OEM, and donated it's displaced unit to car two, no difference so these will be reinstated respectively as I don't like leaving trial parts on generally, just the parts that prove to resolve, likewise for swapping stuff like cam sensors or solenoids in/ex, they always go back to original locations ideally.

hope none of this confuses when other cars get introduced, I will post up a similar clip of car two and actually of car three for comparisons sake, but those don't show the motor running like these, they're just in car clips with the kit.
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58 FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sounds like mine !!!!! runs bad with no codes then after a few days runs good and then throws up random codes ?????
I get that with some where stuff like cam adjustment or boost pressure might not show on a local sedate run but opened up a bit then might, some just seem to need to exist as a fault for a period to register, others come up at start up, it is frustrating when they don't reappear right away because those cars always have to be built back up to a driving state and time invested on the road just to get them to ping, then back in, cool off and so it goes on....
 

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I get some right stinkers were car has been to a number of garages or techs and they just get lost in it, and some time i get one like, like said got one in at present just to add a cherry on a cake i find now all mechanicals are all correct, ecu intermittent fault is the cause , lamda not ready when it should be can be sign of ecu faulty or even a wiring harness is possible, its also possible where a 02 sensors fails its shorts across from high amp heater circuit to 5v signal rail and fries it, same as heater in thermostat housing can drag a ecu down, another trick some people wrongly do is ignition on or even battery connected when pulling plugs and pushing back on again this can also spike a ecu , i always bare all this mind with them and find after i know mechanicals are correct then ecu likely issue,, another bad trick past dealers might do is have a fault code pulled from ecu to sell a car and con a new buyer,
i fond those new spec vanos rec rings to be a bit strange when installed I lag in thick oil and find on some on first heat cycles can give vanos mis times until seal,, my theory is the plastic need heat to shape them selves to the surfaces, also find some hot water or better still hot oil heat them before hand and I use a pick tool to edge them over the high spots try and limit the force and maintain the shape as such, I also find on oil starved engines that the camshafts wear on the seal seats,
 

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will add I have had many cars not just mini or prince engines have intermittent faults within the ECU that flag codes and random eml etc , and very much a very likely fault area , sometimes it takes getting the mechanicals correct before realising the ecu or harness is at fault ,, hence why I fit the parts I fit , as in early days I would fit based on price parts and then now be sure what I have fitted is ok , nothing worse than bring new part and it has a fault of its own added to things end up going around in circles
 
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