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After replacing the clutch, the garage cannot seem to get the air out of the clutch hydraulics. It's been back 4 times for bleeding but still the clutch is spongy and doesn't work until pressed to the floor, even then it sometimes grates when changing gear. They now tell me that it needs a dual master cylinder. I can't find any mention of this online - anyone heard of this? If it's a problem getting the air out then how can separating the brakes and clutch help?
 

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what i do is use a long length of clear bleed off pipe from clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple, long enough to reach on top of engine where i have a container to collect it, ( this pulls the air away from the slave) I then use a ezi bleed pressurised system link below for one , i will always change all the fluid so 1/2 bottle of fluid through it ,,DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL CLUCTH PEDAL WITH PRESSURE BLEEDER ATTACHED CAN FLIP THE SEALS ,, after i do this i pump pedal up then keep pedal to floor while releasing the bleed nipple might need to repeat this a few times gets any air out the slave,
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58 FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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just usually needs bleeding right really,

actually, weird as it sounds, it helps to leave the reservoir cap off overnight with the filter removed too when they're like this, seems odd but you'll only know when you try it ;O)

it also helps to use a pedal jack on them sometimes,

most of all the slave cylinder has to be completely compressed when bleeding,

and when removing or refitting the cylinder, one has to remember as it extends, the piston will draw air in via the point of least resistance, which means if the fluid cap is on, it can draw it in from the seal end if it isn't released very gradually, so always have the cap off during cylinder removal, then the chances are the clutch won't need bleeding in the first place.
 

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Engine and box has been out of my car more times than I care to think about each time the clutch has felt soft afterwards with the bite point right at the floor, each time it has come back after a few days without extra bleeding.
 

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Engine and box has been out of my car more times than I care to think about each time the clutch has felt soft afterwards with the bite point right at the floor, each time it has come back after a few days without extra bleeding.
thats fairly common on them, also leaving a piece of wood on clutch pedal over night so its depressed can help get air to settle more up the pipe then come in and re-bleed it i've found works well, everyone has a different method, I got set on mine by wasting time trying all the other ways , now it takes 20 minutes and tend to 100% from the off ,, think hardest one i ever done was on a honda diesel its got a special valve half way down pipe ,, I ended up back pressure filling system made up a tool to do it with ie air always goes to top so by back pressure it very gentle to master cylinder works a treat do same on bikes as well ,
 

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I had to use this link below to help me get the clutch bled properly.
Read the 3rd. set of comments, about removing the 2 bolts holding on the slave cylinder and rotating 45degrees.
 

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After replacing the clutch, the garage cannot seem to get the air out of the clutch hydraulics. It's been back 4 times for bleeding but still the clutch is spongy and doesn't work until pressed to the floor, even then it sometimes grates when changing gear. They now tell me that it needs a dual master cylinder. I can't find any mention of this online - anyone heard of this? If it's a problem getting the air out then how can separating the brakes and clutch help?
 
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