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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!, we have a 2012 Cooper S Countryman that is not starting sometimes, by that I mean it will turn over and kick but like its running on 2 cylinders for a couple of seconds, then it will stop, start it again and it runs normally, occasionally the check engine light comes on woth half of the engine shape shaded orange, my wife has been driving it to work this week and even did a trip of nearly 300 k's with no problems on Saturday. To go back a couple of weeks the it would sometimes run rough on start up but no other indications of a problem, I thought I felt it hesitate sometimes so I plugged in my basic OBD scanner which came up with misfire code P0300.. changed the plugs and cleared code.. plugs appeared to be originals (car has just clocked 90000ks), it was alright for 2 days then the service lice came on, then went, then the half shaded check engine light.. took it to a professional who scanned and came up with 18 stored fault codes, the ones of concern were centred on fuel supply.. P0087 and 2C01, 2EEO all causing combustion misfires.. also some weird ones relating to voltage being 5E31 control module voltage fault, 5E30 control module fault 931Dsystem voltage, AOBO Brake lights implausible input, 9CB5 battery exhausted
9CB8 Exhaustive - discharge protection of battery deactivation, 9C75 under voltage or over voltage - aircon, 5F31 control module fault. The y checked fuel pressure whilst driving it, ripped the rear seats out and removed fuel tank to clean it out checking everything was okay there, put it back together, new fresh 98 octane fuel, drove it up into the hils loading it up, behaved as it should, handed it back, 2 day it stumbled on start up, next day light came on on her way home but functioned normally, yesterday light came on when starting but went off and we drove 45k home perfectly normal, today driving home orange service light came on and shortly after went into limp mode.. sooooo.. any ideas??.. alrady cost us a LOT this far!
 

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voltage being 5E31 control module voltage fault, 5E30 control module fault 931Dsystem voltage, AOBO Brake lights implausible input, 9CB5 battery exhausted
above would make me suspect battery or charging issue and throwing all those codes ie all ecu's must see min 11.8v anything under will throw random codes related to it, first off get battery checked and charge circuit,
after that if still have the misfires i would suspect high pressure fuel pump if car only does it from cold for a few minutes and clears,, if dont clear them would start with compression and leak don tests check valves seats from leaking, then after that timing chain needs to be checked and pcv valve in rocker cover and the plastic pipe at rear, 9ok on factory timing chain it will need doing without any doubt,, but must also do leak down test as they carbon the valves and leak
 

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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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That's a lot of mileage with the original plugs.(y)In turbo applications it's good to set the sparkplugs around .30 thousandths and some really do suggest to go .25 thousandths(race applications). I know that my ngk plugs show up at the house pre gapped around 40 thousandths.
I would buy one new coil and make sure not to use die electric grease on any of the coils or spark plugs as it will cause mis fire due to the fact that the high energy system for the coils is energy allocated to the coils and spark plugs. And die electric grease does prevent the water and moister from contaminating a spark. BUT! it requires a higher average of electricity to cross a die electric grease path. Like for a car with one coil on a 80's or 90's type distributor application car.
One coil pack(there like double A batteries to me and my mini, just replacing one can keep things going) can stand a chance of resuscitating the coil pack system. As it is new and efficient better at grounding.
Swap that new coil for each(maybe even buy two new coils(I would buy a whole new set if I could afford it.)).
But sometimes one new coils in a bunch don't always work. I find it a better practice to buy about 2 at a time. swap them out one the different cylinders starting the car over and over. observing with the scanner tool. something like
I'll get to my opinion on the battery here in a second but would like to say congratulations on getting your mini to the mileage it has. When I bought my mini cooper back in 2010 it was under warranty sense it had very low mileage and under a extended warranty. If you have a warranty I would take it to the dealership.
Under the practice of a warranty there were things I could have done over the years but some how prided myself off of not wanting to mess with it because of the warranty.
I used to look at the modern marvel under the bonnet of my mini and slightly get overwhelmed it's a good car I dare not mess that up.
I guess what I am trying to say only from personal experience don't get intimated off the big plastic valve cover if it is leaking the gaskets need to be changed or I would at least clean and have o ring silicon grease put on the gasket.
O-Ring Silicone Grease | Super Lube
lightly grease the valve cover gasket for a hermetic seal. Reason why I keep pushing that. Is over the years it was tiny stuff like that. that stage two or to be continued part of changing oil and air filter. for this car. It really depends on no air leaks. Once I figured that out my mini has ran so much better.
You car is throwing all kinds of code possibly due to multiple issues. It's an adaptive program. meaning that actually tries to find a way around things if some module is not performing tip top. but when another module of the power train goes out then the first low performing type thing goes also. It's really what allows the car to safely limp home in most circumstances.
I don't think the ECU is bad at this point. I would think about that as the back wall, Transmission light coming on as the another wall. taking small steps to solve the problem within those guidelines first. If there is electricity and light when you turn the key the ECU YES can still be bad but an optimistic opinion toward that will help. Small engine car and it is not gonna do some super duber full sized car problem or cost as such. In the mechanics,solving the problem as one person, or in it's geometry. It's a small car.
Sounds like you have the IBS battery system in the car that code will need to be erased and reset by a professional or someone with the correct code and scanning software.
if you end up changing the battery.
A fuel filter at 50,000 miles is completely coated in dirt in a mini cooper whether it is the N14 or the N18. An item not a whole lot of people are gonna change if the fuel level sensor is not freaking out. plus it's easier in some sense to just replace the High pressure fuel pump. More than likely no one has changed that fuel filter in your mini cooper unless you did. And that could clear that up!

You should have some sort of variation of this tutorial as yours is not a Diesel. Just get a rough I idea where the fuel tank is under your car. then go into the back of the car. You might need this tool.
Fuel Filter Kit & Lock Ring Tool

combustion chambers all failed........?
that can be resolved but again it would probably cost a bit of money and one of these.
A bore a scope unit. although you can probably get them cheaper if you have a i phone or android. as it will be a attachment and an online app of some sort.
Removing the intake manifold by removing the airbox on top of it and the turbo hose clamp right at the intake manifold. It's easier than it sounds. Just to be careful when removing or setting aside all pvc fuel breather hoses. and careful to remove the intake manifold only after the lower pvc breather pipe that is underneath the manifold is detached from it.
Once that is off lower the scope into the intake ports in the engine and inspect the valve stems that about all your gonna see. If they are coated in soot that means you need a wal nut blasting. and would possibly be the cause for all that. But That really would hinge on the idea that your problem has been building for some time with weird stuff going on vs. "it suddenly happened". If it suddenly happened and your valves look evenly coated nothing too bad. Then I would not race off to have that done. Just a inspection you can do. For a 25 dollar- 125 dollar U.S. bore a scope camera tool. Vs being somehow subjected to a 700 dollar wal nut blasting. Of course if it is that latter than you will be out more because of the camera tool.
Point is there are people on this form that can see that cylinder head clean and redone for 700 dollars. Hence is why were all hear to see if there are other methods and better, cheaper ways to solve some of these problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's a lot of mileage with the original plugs.(y)In turbo applications it's good to set the sparkplugs around .30 thousandths and some really do suggest to go .25 thousandths(race applications). I know that my ngk plugs show up at the house pre gapped around 40 thousandths.
I would buy one new coil and make sure not to use die electric grease on any of the coils or spark plugs as it will cause mis fire due to the fact that the high energy system for the coils is energy allocated to the coils and spark plugs. And die electric grease does prevent the water and moister from contaminating a spark. BUT! it requires a higher average of electricity to cross a die electric grease path. Like for a car with one coil on a 80's or 90's type distributor application car.
One coil pack(there like double A batteries to me and my mini, just replacing one can keep things going) can stand a chance of resuscitating the coil pack system. As it is new and efficient better at grounding.
Swap that new coil for each(maybe even buy two new coils(I would buy a whole new set if I could afford it.)).
But sometimes one new coils in a bunch don't always work. I find it a better practice to buy about 2 at a time. swap them out one the different cylinders starting the car over and over. observing with the scanner tool. something like
I'll get to my opinion on the battery here in a second but would like to say congratulations on getting your mini to the mileage it has. When I bought my mini cooper back in 2010 it was under warranty sense it had very low mileage and under a extended warranty. If you have a warranty I would take it to the dealership.
Under the practice of a warranty there were things I could have done over the years but some how prided myself off of not wanting to mess with it because of the warranty.
I used to look at the modern marvel under the bonnet of my mini and slightly get overwhelmed it's a good car I dare not mess that up.
I guess what I am trying to say only from personal experience don't get intimated off the big plastic valve cover if it is leaking the gaskets need to be changed or I would at least clean and have o ring silicon grease put on the gasket.
O-Ring Silicone Grease | Super Lube
lightly grease the valve cover gasket for a hermetic seal. Reason why I keep pushing that. Is over the years it was tiny stuff like that. that stage two or to be continued part of changing oil and air filter. for this car. It really depends on no air leaks. Once I figured that out my mini has ran so much better.
You car is throwing all kinds of code possibly due to multiple issues. It's an adaptive program. meaning that actually tries to find a way around things if some module is not performing tip top. but when another module of the power train goes out then the first low performing type thing goes also. It's really what allows the car to safely limp home in most circumstances.
I don't think the ECU is bad at this point. I would think about that as the back wall, Transmission light coming on as the another wall. taking small steps to solve the problem within those guidelines first. If there is electricity and light when you turn the key the ECU YES can still be bad but an optimistic opinion toward that will help. Small engine car and it is not gonna do some super duber full sized car problem or cost as such. In the mechanics,solving the problem as one person, or in it's geometry. It's a small car.
Sounds like you have the IBS battery system in the car that code will need to be erased and reset by a professional or someone with the correct code and scanning software.
if you end up changing the battery.
A fuel filter at 50,000 miles is completely coated in dirt in a mini cooper whether it is the N14 or the N18. An item not a whole lot of people are gonna change if the fuel level sensor is not freaking out. plus it's easier in some sense to just replace the High pressure fuel pump. More than likely no one has changed that fuel filter in your mini cooper unless you did. And that could clear that up!

You should have some sort of variation of this tutorial as yours is not a Diesel. Just get a rough I idea where the fuel tank is under your car. then go into the back of the car. You might need this tool.
Fuel Filter Kit & Lock Ring Tool

combustion chambers all failed........?
that can be resolved but again it would probably cost a bit of money and one of these.
A bore a scope unit. although you can probably get them cheaper if you have a i phone or android. as it will be a attachment and an online app of some sort.
Removing the intake manifold by removing the airbox on top of it and the turbo hose clamp right at the intake manifold. It's easier than it sounds. Just to be careful when removing or setting aside all pvc fuel breather hoses. and careful to remove the intake manifold only after the lower pvc breather pipe that is underneath the manifold is detached from it.
Once that is off lower the scope into the intake ports in the engine and inspect the valve stems that about all your gonna see. If they are coated in soot that means you need a wal nut blasting. and would possibly be the cause for all that. But That really would hinge on the idea that your problem has been building for some time with weird stuff going on vs. "it suddenly happened". If it suddenly happened and your valves look evenly coated nothing too bad. Then I would not race off to have that done. Just a inspection you can do. For a 25 dollar- 125 dollar U.S. bore a scope camera tool. Vs being somehow subjected to a 700 dollar wal nut blasting. Of course if it is that latter than you will be out more because of the camera tool.
Point is there are people on this form that can see that cylinder head clean and redone for 700 dollars. Hence is why were all hear to see if there are other methods and better, cheaper ways to solve some of these problems.
Well, the thing is.. intermittent fault finding does my head in.. it only has misfires sometimes on first start of the day, never any other time and that does it for a max of about 5 seconds then cuts out, second start it runs as normal, drives as normal.. accelerates hard when needed but has gone into limp mode twice now, I have cleaned the harness joints to the MAF, cleaned the MAF, unplugged the 3 ECU plugs, cleaned them and reassembled/plugged in, wriggled all the relays and fuses in the box next to the ECU now need to have the codes re cleared and see what happens.. we went into lockdown on Sunday night so that wont happen until Saturday at the soonest.
 

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Well, the thing is.. intermittent fault finding does my head in.. it only has misfires sometimes on first start of the day, never any other time and that does it for a max of about 5 seconds then cuts out, second start it runs as normal, drives as normal.. accelerates hard when needed but has gone into limp mode twice now, I have cleaned the harness joints to the MAF, cleaned the MAF, unplugged the 3 ECU plugs, cleaned them and reassembled/plugged in, wriggled all the relays and fuses in the box next to the ECU now need to have the codes re cleared and see what happens.. we went into lockdown on Sunday night so that wont happen until Saturday at the soonest.
sounds like high pressure fuel pump to me as it cooper s and very common for said pumps to cause misfires on first start up as air gets in to the chamber due to seals failing, all that totally fits in with what high pressure fuel pump does when starts to fail and as time goes by they get worse until throw a code for p2880 or fuel pressure and no start when go totally, might find the other codes are old codes from plat battery at some point perhaps,, i would clear codes see hat comes back over a few days,, would also live data fuel pressure at rail looking around 4.7 normal at idle and 7.6 at 3k revs and above on live data run
 

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will add when these pumps play up like this at first cold starts they thro no codes as the system sees running out of fuel rather than a fault as such until they get really bad
 

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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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1,017 Posts
Well, the thing is.. intermittent fault finding does my head in.. it only has misfires sometimes on first start of the day, never any other time and that does it for a max of about 5 seconds then cuts out, second start it runs as normal, drives as normal.. accelerates hard when needed but has gone into limp mode twice now, I have cleaned the harness joints to the MAF, cleaned the MAF, unplugged the 3 ECU plugs, cleaned them and reassembled/plugged in, wriggled all the relays and fuses in the box next to the ECU now need to have the codes re cleared and see what happens.. we went into lockdown on Sunday night so that wont happen until Saturday at the soonest.
Power is there when you need it. I drove my mini cooper today. It takes a lot after a rebuild 3000 miles ago, and a 116,000 mile car. I am finally finished with my winter re group sense the rebuild from this summer. Working out all the small stuff. But today....today. I drove it about 1 hour away. got what I wanted to get out of the big city then when to a coffee shop. Was leaving on the entry ramp. And saw a green light on the dash was thinking warning(all the stuff...all the stuff I had to go through). It was the cruise control. it was in the on position; I HAD THE FOXWELL SCANNER READY TO GO!
My point I guess I this. It took a a while I would say 1 year total to totally learn the mini cooper. But when it is done by your own hands. You will know..just as you knew when it was a new car when you bought it. NO.....i don't need that scanner in the car anymore. The car let's me know that now from the furthest regions of the car. That my friend is rewarding. Like a new car. The power at highway speed is unbelievable. Better than when I got with 25,000 on the clock.
I may be a prince engine. But it is a absolute RINSER. I really wanted to feel the power like I did years ago found a long straight and did the 110 to 150 shove. It buries the needle. about 4700 rpm hold 150 with about 300more rpm there. It's a 163mph car.
Big thing when it's in the middle of things not really needing the rebuild but it needs a little bit of this and that. Not really going too fast with it but highway speeds 80 miles per hour or so. Just the little things like coils,vanos solenoid, timing chain, Sometimes fuel pump(which is better to get a professional to make that call). It can get pricey Have faith in your fuel injectors with the mileage you have they are more than likely good. Fuel filter is cheap enough.
doing any one of those things help wake up the electricity to the coil pack, speed up the flow of the fuel to the engine. or adjust the intake timing on the fly better.
Any one of those thing and not in that order. Just one thing the Mini Cooper has rewarded me on during my years of ownership. I just broke down a point in time and said no more. That I wanted not only what it was when new. but more of the imagined version of what it could be. Like when a company blue prints a block. Taking all the excess metal from the cast molding process out of the engine block.
And for the most part that is what it is now. took years. I started with the suspension. someone told me years ago. Have a good suspension, that's what hold the engine together when you go over bumps, and down the road!:)
 

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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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What's funny it...is it just me or when everything is running right the stereo does not have static or crackle. That's one way to tell. if all the engine parts are working! wild!!
 

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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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1,017 Posts
Hi!, we have a 2012 Cooper S Countryman that is not starting sometimes, by that I mean it will turn over and kick but like its running on 2 cylinders for a couple of seconds, then it will stop, start it again and it runs normally, occasionally the check engine light comes on woth half of the engine shape shaded orange, my wife has been driving it to work this week and even did a trip of nearly 300 k's with no problems on Saturday. To go back a couple of weeks the it would sometimes run rough on start up but no other indications of a problem, I thought I felt it hesitate sometimes so I plugged in my basic OBD scanner which came up with misfire code P0300.. changed the plugs and cleared code.. plugs appeared to be originals (car has just clocked 90000ks), it was alright for 2 days then the service lice came on, then went, then the half shaded check engine light.. took it to a professional who scanned and came up with 18 stored fault codes, the ones of concern were centred on fuel supply.. P0087 and 2C01, 2EEO all causing combustion misfires.. also some weird ones relating to voltage being 5E31 control module voltage fault, 5E30 control module fault 931Dsystem voltage, AOBO Brake lights implausible input, 9CB5 battery exhausted
9CB8 Exhaustive - discharge protection of battery deactivation, 9C75 under voltage or over voltage - aircon, 5F31 control module fault. The y checked fuel pressure whilst driving it, ripped the rear seats out and removed fuel tank to clean it out checking everything was okay there, put it back together, new fresh 98 octane fuel, drove it up into the hils loading it up, behaved as it should, handed it back, 2 day it stumbled on start up, next day light came on on her way home but functioned normally, yesterday light came on when starting but went off and we drove 45k home perfectly normal, today driving home orange service light came on and shortly after went into limp mode.. sooooo.. any ideas??.. alrady cost us a LOT this far!
Something you said it will jump and kick like it is one 2 cylinders. That sounds a awful lot like a cracked lower fuel vent hose(plastic pipe type hose). Hard kicks right at start.
 
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