[mike1967]

you could be rebuilding a can of pain, as when bearings get spun and are spun for a while all the metal ends up all over in the insides of motor thats first concern ie rebuild and in oil ways somewhere there is a lump of metal and carbon that releases it self down the road killing another set of bearings, so strip down to engine block and cleaning is a must, ie engine builder have special cleaning machines, also the crankshaft its by far the best way when have crankshaft reground get engine builders to surplie the new bearings as they will need to grin journals to match them as such, i only ever order new bearing on standard sizes and use uk based machine shops who advertise on line or ebay as they seem to care enough to get things right more than a chinese seller would.
would also think about a second motor and refresh it , ie re rind and bearing and oil pump and timing chain and lap valves and do stem seals and all other seals, at least you know for sure its going to be fine,, when they spin a journal always have that thought was it due to internal crack somewhere or carbon dirt build up somewhere you cant see,, i know i have seen this happen to many times over the years

 

[mike1967]

would deffo do valve oil stems seals and reseat the valves lap them in, would also do chain while in there, you will need to lightly hone the bores helps bed rings in, on gen 2 r56 prince engines i use course scotch brite pads glued on to the hone tool stones as the bores are low friction tech and deep scratches will hurt them, the scotch brite just gives it enough to clean and leave very slight scratches, i.ve been doing that for years and not had any issue with blow past after, also change oil and filter after 500 miles max make sure get any bits out etc, also check filter when change it for metal parts in it, i also when first start up form rebuild run on idle get warm let it it cool and do it it few times before putting loads on it like driving it etc, ie rather find a leak or a issue when its sat there in front of you where out on a run it could cause big issues say, you can buy special engine builders paste wurth using also crank engine over with coil pack off until oil gets around the motor just avoids risk of picking up a bearing surface when dry

 

[mike1967]

looks nice job, dont forget when all back together before first start without spark plugs in better way crank engine over untill got oil coming up to the head and camshaft etc

 

[mike1967]

trouble is the car was designed to have dmf so all was designed around this cushion within the drive train, most single mass flywheels tend to vibrate unless lathe produced and balanced,, C&G MOTORSPORTS do the best flywheels but dont know of they do one for the mini, safe option dmf it should last 70-120k in a petrol car,

 

[mike1967]

i have done this to a few cars there is a sweet spot where you lose momentum in high gears on hills ie you end up with a engine that just wants to scream with not much torque as such flywheel is a rotary storage item, to light terrible of main roads good on a flat track,

 

[mike1967]

i've not done one on cooper s before but have on other stuff finding a balance between how fast it picks up to how easy can drive down the road without for ever changing down the and up the gearbox

 

[mike1967]

i got a cooper s r53 works in at present with oil in the water have stripped it down and found the normal head bolts to be not very tight etc and evidence of rad weld etc and running with no aniti freeze in it as well so some rust, so will coat the internal on the block with rust cure that should sort the rust out, this car has 100k on it and all bores have no wear ridge and all 4 seal ie fluid test leave seafoam on the bores to soak in, the camshaft was very pitted and worn so told the guy gave him a option of factory camshaft or a stage two road came link below anyway he's having the fast road cam, also found the super charger had new rollers in it ie think has been recon unit not long ago, fitting new camchain as well when all done will be put on rolling road and see what we can get out of it, the camshaft seller says the idle stays normal but the 4000 rev onward become more

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[mike1967]

fairly sure its one of those has he knows it a repair and if i find other stuff then it gets done, the car ran really nice thats the mad thing idle was ok and pulled like a train, the oil issue was only slightly ie got a 5 mm or oil residue on head tank i've also got a new oil cooler on the way no water in the oil did not even biol in anyway just slight oil in the water, once i got all fitted back together it will be stuck on rolling road and run up see what it making, what colour are your injectors

 

[mike1967]

My injectors are standard grey.
I'm going to get it running first before I change anything else.
I've got a spare block and crank now so may just build a monster motor and see if I can get it over 400bhp haha

two shots of NOS might get it over 400bhp for a few feet lol, super charger is fairly limited ie for every 100bhp it prob steals 25bhp to produce it, hence why turbo cars make more gains on rolling road, that said there is a 3rd way 12volt battery fed super chargers stick a extra battery in car and a high rate alternator and this would only steal under 10bhp to run but the pressure gains would be massive, hence why pro chargers in the states are the in thing with 3000bhp v8 drag cars, as anything that runs off the crankshaft costs drag and bhp loss

 

[mike1967]

ironically me and john had this chat about direct of his rolling road and ideas and electronic super chargers are on the list of research by early days as only just moved in to his new workshops so work in progress

 

[mike1967]

i will once we have done a few and worked out any bugs etc,

 

[mike1967]

we dyno'd that r53 made 233bhp at wheels we think was more in it as that cam on a 100k bottom end guy that owns it told me he;s borderline scare of it in the wet lol below pic screen shot of dyno chart

 

[mike1967]

below will sort the 450bhp maybe really fast lol

NOS Nitrous Oxide Systems | Wizards of NOS | WON

NOS Nitrous Oxide Systems specialists offering nitrous kits for both cars and motorcycles. NOS Wizards - the Nitrous Kit specialists.

www.noswizard.com

 

[mike1967]

What do you think to the idler delete idea?

big problem with reduced pulley is need to have a good tight belt to fit it then we found with a cam and at point of where the cam picks up found was getting some slip so end up putting a smaller belt on by undoing the alternator to get belt on as was not enough travel in tensioner for pulley ,, i think would be better if made a tensioner that can be adjusted via crew threads and not sprung tensioner as such then could avoid belt slip,, the less the bottom pulley must turn it always going to better also using a good new belt helps things,

 

[mike1967]

Nos is an idea for once I have the motor running lol. Bloody good idea though.

cant beat blue flames out the exhaust lol

 

[mike1967]

I will keep this in mind.
Have you ever made a screw tensioner?
Is there a company that makes them and would you put in place of where the idler pully goes? It would be pushing up on the belt to keep tight.

not on mini have not would a easy to make up and weld frame with adjustable idler maybe set where aircon pump would normal sit so could mimic the bolt holes the pump has for the bracket then a canter level with screw thread adjuster with pulley wheel for belt on it as such , need welder and angle grinder some 5mm 30mmx30mm angle steel threaded bar maybe and some nuts and bolts etc, anything can be made its just the time to do it,, over the years i've stuck all kinds in to all kinds of cars, even worked for a kit car maker years ago,,

 

[mike1967]

top outer hole special shaped torx bolt locates the front plate, the lower is idler hole , below link can enlarge pic of front of engine

Mini Cooper S R53 2002 Supercharged Bare Engine | eBay

<p>I’m breaking a Mini Cooper S r53 loads of parts available.</p><br><p>Mini Cooper S R53 2002 engine without auxiliaries.</p><br><p>Covered 94,000</p><br><p>Was running well when removed..</p><br><p>With the mileage we would recommend the timing chain to be changed, although there are no issues...

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[mike1967]

there is two of those special bolts one at top corner of front cover as well they leave it flush as such

 

[mike1967]

i've done that before and found a big headed screw that fitted and swapped the top one with the missing bottom one as it needs to miss the pulley, prob find genuine part of they still stock them,

 

[mike1967]

i'm a fan of shorted belt less drag, also fit one that is so tight it only just goes on the pulleys or could loosen the alternator to fit the belt of that makes sense so the tensioner will have max pressure on it as such thats what i done on the last one i done that had a fast road cam and 233bhp at wheels map on it,, the owner told me the other day he's scared of it in the wet and thinking of selling it funny old world lol