[Banditman]

Hi everyone I'm new to the forum but not to minis. I've got 4 minis from ones to a cooper s.
I'm going to rebuild my cooper s engine as it's spun a big end because it had oil starvation from timing guides breaking up and blocking the pick up pipe.
My question to you all is, what mains would you use? I've seen some cheap ones and some mid range that are made by a company called ET, has anyone used these mains and are they any good?
Also, what about the big ends? What do you all recommend I use for these?
Ok what about the flywheel, do I go single mass or stick to duel mass?
My other problem is, when I opened the engine I found that one of my con rods is a different colour to the other 3. Has anyone got any ideas on why this is? What colour is the std cooper s rods?
Oh and by the way, yes I am using another crank as mine is toast.

Thanks for your reply.
Tony.

 

[Banditman]

Hi and thank you for your reply. I will make sure the engine is cleaned. I will be plastigauging the journals to make sure all is ok. I've got another good crank which hasn't had any problems so that should be good. The hole engine is already stripped and will everything will be cleaned. I have also changed the oil pump, stripped and cleaned the con rods piston that I'm going to use. New rings will be fitted. The head will be sent for a skim if needed and a good clean.
If I have missed anything please let me know.

 

[Banditman]

Yep I have a full chain kit to go in as that was the main cause of all the problems. Who ever had it before me m7st have just drove it when the chain had started to rattle and drove like an idiot till it just stopped. Crazy.
I will also be fitting all new seals and gaskets. Fitting with lube and break in oil.
Thanks again for your input. I will keep in mind the hone advice. I have a hone tool that is fairly new but the bores are really good so think a scotch bright may do what I need.

Cheers.

 

[Banditman]

Ok so I've been collecting parts for a couple of weeks and now have all the bearings hepolite rings oil pump timing chain kit new RMS and front oil seal. Also clutch and new solid mass f/wheel.
The hole engine is stripped and the block and head are going for professional clean and the surfaces will be checked and skimmed if needed. Head will be skimmed regardless. Valves are going to be lapped in and bores will be honed.
Once I start to rebuild I will post some pictures. I've posted a picture of the head before it's trip to the engineers.

 

[Banditman]

Ok so picked the block and head up from the engineers and they look sweet.
I'm going to start putting it back together now slowly. I do need to find the torque setting for the piston oil injectors if anyone knows it.
I have painted the block but that's it, nothing else to be painted.

 

[Banditman]

So today I've put the pistons back in with new big ends and all snug.
I've also rebuilt the cylinder head so just a few things to do then I can bolt them both together.

 

[Banditman]

looks nice job, dont forget when all back together before first start without spark plugs in better way crank engine over untill got oil coming up to the head and camshaft etc

Oh yes oil pressure is a good thing. I will be spinning it over till light hoes out.
I've built with plenty of build up oil, wow it's sticky but very important for the first turn over.
Only thing I've had trouble with is the oil injectors as number 4 was just touching the piston skirt so had to undo again and move as to clear the piston skirt.
Turning the big end cap bolts a further 90 degree was so scary hahahaha but all is good.
Can't wait to get it done but have always said I will take my time.
Only thing I would like to ask people is, duel mass or solid conversion?

 

[Banditman]

trouble is the car was designed to have dmf so all was designed around this cushion within the drive train, most single mass flywheels tend to vibrate unless lathe produced and balanced,, C&G MOTORSPORTS do the best flywheels but dont know of they do one for the mini, safe option dmf it should last 70-120k in a petrol car,

Ok i will call at c& g as they are not far from my work.
I was thinking about getting it lightened and balanced before fitting anyway just to try help it spin up faster.

 

[Banditman]

I will keep this in mind.
The company I use for all the work builds race cars for a few friends so will see what they have to say too.
Would you say it's best to just balance it and leave the weight? I'm not building a race engine but an engine that will work very well on the road.

 

[Banditman]

So a little more work done today. Head on and chain installed. New sprockets and tensioner all fitted.
I now need to order new oil pump seals and an oil pick up pipe seal.

 

[Banditman]

I will be interested to see what power you get with just a cam.
Oil in the water could be because the head wasn't bolted down right if the bolts are not tight. I found I had to do mine twice to make sure they were all 40nm after the first stage then I was safe to go the further 90deg. I then turned up the torque wrench to about 80ftlb and made sure the wrench clicked on them all and felt the same.
If the engine has had no antifreeze in for a while, then that is crazy as it can cause all sorts of problems. I would want to take the sump off to check the crank but it depends how far the customer wants to go with it.
Do you think the engine will be ok once you put it back together?

 

[Banditman]

My injectors are standard grey.
I'm going to get it running first before I change anything else.
I've got a spare block and crank now so may just build a monster motor and see if I can get it over 400bhp haha

 

[Banditman]

Well you will have to keep me posted on your progress.

 

[Banditman]

Ok so now I'm so close to befitting my engine. I've decided to put a solid mass fw on and upgraded clutch plate.
My next question is........ I don't have AC so has anyone with out gone down the idler delete route?
Have you gained anything or does it just wear out belts faster?
I am going to put a 17% reducer on the now serviced super charger, but wanted to know your thoughts on the idler delete.

Thanks.

 

[Banditman]

we dyno'd that r53 made 233bhp at wheels we think was more in it as that cam on a 100k bottom end guy that owns it told me he;s borderline scare of it in the wet lol below pic screen shot of dyno chart

What do you think to the idler delete idea?

 

[Banditman]

below will sort the 450bhp maybe really fast lol

NOS Nitrous Oxide Systems | Wizards of NOS | WON

NOS Nitrous Oxide Systems specialists offering nitrous kits for both cars and motorcycles. NOS Wizards - the Nitrous Kit specialists.

www.noswizard.com

Nos is an idea for once I have the motor running lol. Bloody good idea though.

 

[Banditman]

big problem with reduced pulley is need to have a good tight belt to fit it then we found with a cam and at point of where the cam picks up found was getting some slip so end up putting a smaller belt on by undoing the alternator to get belt on as was not enough travel in tensioner for pulley ,, i think would be better if made a tensioner that can be adjusted via crew threads and not sprung tensioner as such then could avoid belt slip,, the less the bottom pulley must turn it always going to better also using a good new belt helps things,

I will keep this in mind.
Have you ever made a screw tensioner?
Is there a company that makes them and would you put in place of where the idler pully goes? It would be pushing up on the belt to keep tight.

 

[Banditman]

One of these holes is for the idler pully but which one and what goes in the other lol. Been a long time since I've taken it apart.

 

[Banditman]

top outer hole special shaped torx bolt locates the front plate, the lower is idler hole , below link can enlarge pic of front of engine

Mini Cooper S R53 2002 Supercharged Bare Engine | eBay

<p>I’m breaking a Mini Cooper S r53 loads of parts available.</p><br><p>Mini Cooper S R53 2002 engine without auxiliaries.</p><br><p>Covered 94,000</p><br><p>Was running well when removed..</p><br><p>With the mileage we would recommend the timing chain to be changed, although there are no issues...

www.ebay.co.uk

Nice one thanks.

 

[Banditman]

Well looks like either it was missing when I took the engine out or I've misplaced it.
Has anyone got one of these bolts and 8f not where could I get one from?