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My injectors are standard grey.
I'm going to get it running first before I change anything else.
I've got a spare block and crank now so may just build a monster motor and see if I can get it over 400bhp haha
two shots of NOS might get it over 400bhp for a few feet lol, super charger is fairly limited ie for every 100bhp it prob steals 25bhp to produce it, hence why turbo cars make more gains on rolling road, that said there is a 3rd way 12volt battery fed super chargers stick a extra battery in car and a high rate alternator and this would only steal under 10bhp to run but the pressure gains would be massive, hence why pro chargers in the states are the in thing with 3000bhp v8 drag cars, as anything that runs off the crankshaft costs drag and bhp loss
 

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ironically me and john had this chat about direct of his rolling road and ideas and electronic super chargers are on the list of research by early days as only just moved in to his new workshops so work in progress
 

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i will once we have done a few and worked out any bugs etc,
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok so now I'm so close to befitting my engine. I've decided to put a solid mass fw on and upgraded clutch plate.
My next question is........ I don't have AC so has anyone with out gone down the idler delete route?
Have you gained anything or does it just wear out belts faster?
I am going to put a 17% reducer on the now serviced super charger, but wanted to know your thoughts on the idler delete.

Thanks.
 

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we dyno'd that r53 made 233bhp at wheels we think was more in it as that cam on a 100k bottom end guy that owns it told me he;s borderline scare of it in the wet lol below pic screen shot of dyno chart
 

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below will sort the 450bhp maybe really fast lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·

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What do you think to the idler delete idea?
big problem with reduced pulley is need to have a good tight belt to fit it then we found with a cam and at point of where the cam picks up found was getting some slip so end up putting a smaller belt on by undoing the alternator to get belt on as was not enough travel in tensioner for pulley ,, i think would be better if made a tensioner that can be adjusted via crew threads and not sprung tensioner as such then could avoid belt slip,, the less the bottom pulley must turn it always going to better also using a good new belt helps things,
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
big problem with reduced pulley is need to have a good tight belt to fit it then we found with a cam and at point of where the cam picks up found was getting some slip so end up putting a smaller belt on by undoing the alternator to get belt on as was not enough travel in tensioner for pulley ,, i think would be better if made a tensioner that can be adjusted via crew threads and not sprung tensioner as such then could avoid belt slip,, the less the bottom pulley must turn it always going to better also using a good new belt helps things,
I will keep this in mind.
Have you ever made a screw tensioner?
Is there a company that makes them and would you put in place of where the idler pully goes? It would be pushing up on the belt to keep tight.
 

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I will keep this in mind.
Have you ever made a screw tensioner?
Is there a company that makes them and would you put in place of where the idler pully goes? It would be pushing up on the belt to keep tight.
not on mini have not would a easy to make up and weld frame with adjustable idler maybe set where aircon pump would normal sit so could mimic the bolt holes the pump has for the bracket then a canter level with screw thread adjuster with pulley wheel for belt on it as such , need welder and angle grinder some 5mm 30mmx30mm angle steel threaded bar maybe and some nuts and bolts etc, anything can be made its just the time to do it,, over the years i've stuck all kinds in to all kinds of cars, even worked for a kit car maker years ago,,
 

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top outer hole special shaped torx bolt locates the front plate, the lower is idler hole , below link can enlarge pic of front of engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
top outer hole special shaped torx bolt locates the front plate, the lower is idler hole , below link can enlarge pic of front of engine
Nice one thanks.
 

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there is two of those special bolts one at top corner of front cover as well they leave it flush as such
 

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i've done that before and found a big headed screw that fitted and swapped the top one with the missing bottom one as it needs to miss the pulley, prob find genuine part of they still stock them,
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
i've done that before and found a big headed screw that fitted and swapped the top one with the missing bottom one as it needs to miss the pulley, prob find genuine part of they still stock them,
The top bolt is a different size so I've come up with another solution.
25mm m8 bolt fits just fine and tightens up fine and does not affect the idler pully. Again I may not even fit the pully as I don't have AC and could get rid of the idler and the extra pully that takes the place of the AC pump. Only thing is I would be using a short belt and am worried about slippage on the charger.
I will fit with and with out pulleys and post a pic.
 
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