Engine rebuild
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i'm a fan of shorted belt less drag, also fit one that is so tight it only just goes on the pulleys or could loosen the alternator to fit the belt of that makes sense so the tensioner will have max pressure on it as such thats what i done on the last one i done that had a fast road cam and 233bhp at wheels map on it,, the owner told me the other day he's scared of it in the wet and thinking of selling it funny old world lol
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Hahaha your car only goes as fast as you want it too. Why be scared lol.
I'm just getting fed up now of the engine still being on the stand. I've been ill and had 7 operations since I started this.
I've got to take the charger to get the pulley taken off as I don't have a puller, but once I've done that and the new water pump turns up, there is no reason why I can't fit it back in the car.
I have gone with the single mass flywheel but now want the plate upgrading and CG clutch company isn't far from me and I'm gonna get them to put better material on the clutch plate I've just got.
Then when the engine is back in I can start on the upgrading of the inter cooler, plugs and air flow.
CG clutch compay are good they do a dual plate clutch for honda 2,2cdti engines lets you put a lot of torque through and never fails they do part kevlar plate material its a lot better can put more stress through it,, i etc primed the last ss and inlet stuff and then used hammerite smooth satin black paint on ot iall as black deals with heat better and it looks good and not boy racer like
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not long now the moment of truth,, god i hate that feeling just before i fire any thing for the first time,,, i know i always do them right but always get that feeling dread... once it running just let it idle dont rev it just let it sit there for a good hour or 2 let it bed in and relax as such longer the better before driving it and reving it, jut done mine again as rings were rubbish,, i let it sit for 3 hours on idle before being rev'd then i drove around no more than 2000 revs for 100 miles the 2500 for another 100 miles, i changed the oil at 100 miles get rid of any metal from hone etc,, i'm at 300 miles now and 4500 revs has been seen a few times it goes like hell now,, will give it north of 700 miles then might give a full fat run
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Hey Mike. Thanks for that info. I was gonna ask you how you delt with the first start up. Not sure I would have left running for 2 hours but if it's worked for you then that's what I will do.
Do you use running in oil or just normal 5/30?
i do that on all of them as the way i see it is this,, if any engine wont sit and idle for a couple of hours without getting upset then its not really fixed its still got a issue somewhere that o would rather find on a good long soak test where i can control it ie have diagnostics plugged in live data coolant temp being number on thing to watch, also as little a load on any new parts when running in is a must hence why on turbo cars they say run for a hour before reving it,, it all the little details that most people over look that in long run make things last better,, they researched engine wear and they came back with the most wear on any engine is in first few moments of first start up and how bedded in in first place when new
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Ok so now I've connected everything up and gone to connect the battery but before I did I did a resistance check and found I have a short on the positive. I have two main wires on the starter. Is that right? Should I only have one? There is a thick black wire that comes out of the big block near the thurmastate housing and I've put that to the starter but now I'm not sure if that should be on the starter. I've disconnected it from the starter and now I'm all good but I did a continuity test on that wire to ground and nothing lol. I'm lost. Anyone help.
Mike if your about that would be good
Mike if your about that would be good
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Ok another update.
I've started the car for the first time today and all is good. Didn't even hesitate and sounds really good.
Rain has stopped play now so will do more tomorrow. Rockers did tap a little untill the oil built up pressure in them again.
I'm using run in oil for the first part of the start up and for the first hour then will drop that and refill with fresh oil and another new oil filter. I will cut open the filter and look for signs of self destruction.
Once I've got water in and ready to run for the first hour I will plug in the diagnostic and run a live data to see how things are going.
I hope to have it on the road on the 1st of April. Yaaaaa.
I've started the car for the first time today and all is good. Didn't even hesitate and sounds really good.
Rain has stopped play now so will do more tomorrow. Rockers did tap a little untill the oil built up pressure in them again.
I'm using run in oil for the first part of the start up and for the first hour then will drop that and refill with fresh oil and another new oil filter. I will cut open the filter and look for signs of self destruction.
Once I've got water in and ready to run for the first hour I will plug in the diagnostic and run a live data to see how things are going.
I hope to have it on the road on the 1st of April. Yaaaaa.
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So what I found is that there is a black wire that goes from the altanator round to the starter on the same side of the starter as the live wire. Once I had figgered that out I turned the key and hey Presto it started and run well.
mine r56 has done 690 miles now going back on rolling road soon for another session i've already given it a few good kickings and just sounds perfect and the best bit in 500 miles it has used 2mm of oil on dipstick uses next to zero even on the run in time span,, the trick is the new piston rings i always push them in bores after the hone and feel gauge the gap on the piston rings and file them accordingly as i ordered slightly over size and made them fit with 0.10mm gaps so by time run in should be 0.15mm then when add power the heat range should closed it again as such,, on nos fed cars they gap them 0.30mm -0.40mm as rings expand with heat and if to tight will not allow the rings to move in the slots,,, ie piston rings must be allowed to rotate after fitting, also the gap need to be 180 degrees from each other on two compression rings i set them 11 oclock to 5 oclock and then set the oil rings the same way on a 40 degree off set,, i also use grease and oil for bearings and valve stem seals when installing them gives it all chance to get oil before running out of lubrication,, nothing worst than building something to start it to get a sticky valve or crank bearing spin,, mine sounds like a new engine now no rattles even when i cant the idle is that stable that after cant feel it running its proper good,,,
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Today I have fitted the polly bush for the bottom arms and new inner ball joints. I've also put the front end back on including the front bumper.
I rigged up a tool to fit the polly Bush's, a bit of threaded bar and two old front sprockets of my motorbikes lol. Worked a treat so I've added a picture so you can see how I've done it. Maybe it will help others with out a tool and need to fit while still on the car.
I rigged up a tool to fit the polly Bush's, a bit of threaded bar and two old front sprockets of my motorbikes lol. Worked a treat so I've added a picture so you can see how I've done it. Maybe it will help others with out a tool and need to fit while still on the car.
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below link is arm bush tool i tend to use big sockets and threaded bar on most and a impact gun
above tool will do more that what it says on the box
Bmw Mini Cooper R50 R53 Front Control Arm Bush Tool | eBay
Suitable for the BMW Mini One, Cooper, Cooper S (2001 on) R50, R53. Chassis. W10, W11, W17. Tool can be used in situ.
www.ebay.co.uk
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I've seen that kit. It's ok but it's not hardened. When you try to rake out the old bush it has stripped the thread. I used a rasipricating saw to remove the old bush and my home made tool to refit. Easy.below link is arm bush tool i tend to use big sockets and threaded bar on most and a impact gun
above tool will do more that what it says on the boxBmw Mini Cooper R50 R53 Front Control Arm Bush Tool | eBay
Suitable for the BMW Mini One, Cooper, Cooper S (2001 on) R50, R53. Chassis. W10, W11, W17. Tool can be used in situ.www.ebay.co.uk
your not meant to remove the bush with it its only to press it in,, ie use a drill bit with cutting edges on it or hole cutter to cut away the rubber part then use a saw blade or a air chisel to remove the out parts that left then lightly grease the new bush and the arm and threads on the tool and pull the new bush in,
7Pc HOLESAW SET 26mm - 63mm Round/Circle Drill Bit Cutter Cut Plastic/Wood/Alloy | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 7Pc HOLESAW SET 26mm - 63mm Round/Circle Drill Bit Cutter Cut Plastic/Wood/Alloy at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
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Ok, I've never uses one and only going on what other people have said.your not meant to remove the bush with it its only to press it in,, ie use a drill bit with cutting edges on it or hole cutter to cut away the rubber part then use a saw blade or a air chisel to remove the out parts that left then lightly grease the new bush and the arm and threads on the tool and pull the new bush in,
7Pc HOLESAW SET 26mm - 63mm Round/Circle Drill Bit Cutter Cut Plastic/Wood/Alloy | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 7Pc HOLESAW SET 26mm - 63mm Round/Circle Drill Bit Cutter Cut Plastic/Wood/Alloy at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!www.ebay.co.uk
I've done loads and never struggled really cos I normally take them off the car and put in the vice. A lot easier when it's there. Lol
the plastic outer case ones are easy to remove but the metal out cage type are are hard work if dont cut the out metal part,, i've done a lot of the psa rear trailing arm bushes and getting the whole rear trailing beam to of car and to vice is not the done thing normally hence why a bush tool wit threaded bar is used years a i thought the bush tools with threaded bar were for removal as well i also nailed a lot of threaded bars removing the bushes gets expensive when your doing a over 4 a week say,, just better practice to only use them to pull the bush inwards and not much stress on them
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