Okay time to give an update on this.
I re-timed the engine over the bank holiday weekend.
I used a cheap timing kit from eBay. Yes, I had to reduce the main body of the crank pin to fit the flywheel housing bore. I just stuck it in a drill and used a small file to work it down.
Also yes, the timing lock fixtures needed a little work. The exhaust lock needed a small section cut off because it interfered with the turbo (I think an extra screw hole for mating with another engine) the angle-grinder took swift care of that. AND yes, the locking fixtures needed some shimming to get a really snug tolerance fit on the cams. In my case the exhaust fixture needed 0.14mm shim and the intake needed 0.1mm shim.
Once I put the crank pin in, the exhaust locking fixture slotted dead-nuts on. Nice. The intake fixture on the other hand would not even go on more than half way because the intake cam was angled backwards towards the engine bay bulkhead. So yeah, it was out of time. I don't think it is chain wear because that would be spread across the chain evenly and appear on the exhaust and intake cams. In this case it was only the intake cam and I think it was probably not installed carefully since I found the valve springs wanted to push it off time just like I found it here.
I removed the timing chain tensioner and replaced with the manual tool done finger tight. I'm not really sure why I shouldn't just leave the automatic tensioner in there (except if you are replacing the chain).
In order to loosen off the vanos intake sprocket bolt I needed to remove the top brace / radiator mount and also remove the intercooler to intake manifold pipe. Using a swivel socket to avoid the engine mount I was then able to release the stretch bolt and adjust the intake cam relative to the sprocket / timing chain.
I installed the new stretch bolt (20nm) and did a few test rotations, then reinstalled the timing tool. Then I did it again to be sure before I torqued the bolt 180 degrees for final tightness and did a final third test rotation and locking kit install. Everything was perfect!
Oh, I will warn you that the tensioner hole is fed with oil. So I got a nice pool down the back of the engine when I did my test rotations with only the manual tesnioner tool in there.
The result? Well at first it seemed to run smoother. Then it didn't, then it did. I think this has helped, I mean it can't not help getting the engine timed right. However first I think I will need to have the adaptions all cleared so the ECU can learn the new timing. Second I have a suspicion I need to check the sensors and wiring. Yesterday I gave my MAP sensor a blast of alcohol to clean it and now the car actually runs worse than before, so I suspect a poor MAP sensor or weak wiring too. I battle onwards!