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Engine Timing? N14

15224 Views 24 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Scudder
Hi Eveyone,

Despite having a new fuel pump and some other parts (which helped it run smoother on power) my R56 with N14 engine still has a rough idle. That is not to say I get rev fluctuations, only that the engine vibrates more than I think it should giving slight hickups here and there. Better when warm but never 100% gone. It bugs me!

After reading about Vanos problems and finding a description that matches my symptoms I changed the Vanos solenoid to no effect. Now I want to check engine timing / chain.

Today I put the cams in upright position (TDC, or it could be crank at 180°) and placed a ruler on each of the the square sections where the locking tool usually goes. I took a photo with camera on a static tripod so I can compare intake and exhaust angles. I seem to have about 2.9° difference. See photo. I'm unsure if this is advance or retard?

Anyway, I wanted to confirm that this is not normal, is it? The resting position should have both cams with the square sections exactly aligned, correct?

Just counted the Vanos gear to have 40 teeth, so 9°/tooth. It's not slipped a tooth. Simply a worn chain or lack of tension?

I also checked the Vanos seals that feed oil from cam to Vanos. I read they are rubber on some BMWs and can wear out but mine seem to be steel.

Also I put a spanner on the intake cam and found I was able to move it slightly against the spring of the Vanos gear. It wasn't 'easy' but it was possible with one hand. Video below. Is this normal? I read somewhere it should not be possible to rotate the cam... but the Vanos is a sprung gear.

Insight appreciated!

Vanos cam spring:
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But this contradicts the process, ignition on disconnect then ignition off is impossible
the car ecu's are all switched on from when you unlock the door with key fob the body control module switches it all to life it stays alive for 3 minutes before shutting off so whether it has a button or a key is neither here nor there, the point of discharging the circuits by the process are all the same,
So are you saying that 3 minutes regardless of ignition off makes no odds? I still don't get it? With my key in it will never be ignition off when the positive is reconnected
you put fob into dash press start button as to turn on ignition ie all fuel gauge comes to life etc,, at this point the ignition is definitely on, then press the button once ie this switches off the ignition leave fob in dash then disconnect battery and cross them,, thats the beginning of it thought that would be fairly straight forward to work out on a car with a start button and not a key you turn, the fact the button does away with the rotary movement of a key but still does the same thing,
No mike that is not how it was described in original post but will do that next. You need to clarify that anywhere else it is posted to keep it right, thanks again
21 - 25 of 25 Posts
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