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Hi I'm Tom, I've read loads but never posted. I am aware I will get some abuse for this because I know its a common question that gets asked but I never seem to find a resolution at the ends of threads.
I have a 56 MCS, 80k miles with the Red Oil Light problem. It only comes on after about 30mins of driving or a motorway blast and only then does it come on when coming to a stop when the revs drop.
First time this happened I obviously panicked, got it straight into a garage who changed oil and filters. On the drive home the light came back on again, so it went back in. The garage couldn't find any errors coming up on diagnostics so I took the decision to This time to get them to change the Oil Pump. Problem solved! For the next two weeks it was fine, even tested it from London to Weymouth and back no issues at all. A few days after though, the light came back on again while pulling up at traffic lights.
Im really preying there is some sort of grand wizard mini cooper s expert reading this who is going to point me towards a fix, or even a cause. It doesn't change how it drives or how it feels its just that awful bonging noise and red light that pops up on the dash. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated, and abuse will be accepted as I know this has been asked before.
Thanks,
Tom
 

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no abuse bud dont do abuse . i would first off do live data run on it ie to view the coolant temps when it does it, have seen thermostat housing go wonky and lets engine get to hot and oil cant cope with it, early housing would throw fan on 112c the later ones 104c just rebuilt my cooper s and was part of fixing the reasons why it went bang as such, fully synthetic oil best, i've switched to 5/40w on mine as gives a better upper temps viscosity i just let it warm up on cold starts for a minute or two ,
or it might be worn out engine ie crankshaft and camshaft bearings maybe worn out, or oil pump failling or just electrical fault the pressure switch is on side of head by vac pump, also cheap oil filters are a no no
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers pal thanks for the reply. The Oil pump was changed a few weeks ago so I can tick that off. I think the next plan of attack will be thermostat housing, will report back afterwords (y),
Thanks
 

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Right I havnt been able to look at the car for a while been so damn busy. I tested the car today, I drove it hard to the point where the light would usually come on but the whole time I was driving I had the air con on full meaning the fan would be going non stop. The Oil light didn't come on once so am i right in thinking this points towards the culprit being the thermostat housing?
 

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i've just rebuilt my cooper s and i run that on 5/40w fully synthetic oil i also have put the latest spec thermo housing on it but did use a genuine febi bilsteen one from a auto factors who dont sell cheap Chinese crap,, before car was running 112c now runs 104c and clearly open and closes well,
i also run nearly neat antifreeze as this also help keep temp more stable towards lower level, also water turns to steam after easier than antifreeze so this also helps deal with heat,
the thicker oil when hot is the 5/40w helps to deal with oil burning and oil breaking down as all engine oils are rated to 100c where the prince engines run 104c to 112c with limited air flow through the engine bay,,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info, I'm going to get the thermostat changed, do you possibly have a link to the one that you used?
Thanks,
Tom
 

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no
Thanks for the info, I'm going to get the thermostat changed, do you possibly have a link to the one that you used?
Thanks,
Tom
i bought mine over trade counter as have trade accounts i can use, ebay seller really good neo brothers link below for latest spec housing but give them your reg number before order make sure
 

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just a word of warning about the cheap housing that are being sold have seen more fail than survive and when they do they tend to over heat the engine and have seen many heads with all the valve seats out of head in fact i done a citreon not so long ago had to replace the head lucky the bottom end survived but still its got running issues where it killed off the cat and 02 sensors when a 02 sensor is £80 a pop x 2 and cat is around the £160 mark on top of the £400 head plus all the labour and other parts just because of a saving of £60 on a component that needs to be as good as it can be
 

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Boom this one? I ran it through my number plate and apparently it fits so I think I'm going to order this one.
yep thats the link i sent they are really good company for mini parts on line i only stopped using them as much because the auto factors where i live really want my business and have really given me good prices on stuff, i also run a eobd temperature monitor on mine just incase this gives me a gauge where can keep eye on temps seen so many of these cars with no gauges boil over and hurt them selves and its really not funny its disgraceful by the makers to think a warning light that comes on when its to late is a good thing to do
i know its from china bit its cheap and is within a degree of temps and runs off cars eobd socket as a scan tool would
 
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