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Discussion Starter #1
2014 cooper diesel.
Hi, I'm in the process of removing the cylinder head and wonder how best to get access to removing the exhaust manifold and turbo.
I also need to find out how to lock the engine and cams prior to removing the head, I have purchased the locking kit but it hasn't arrived yet, I cant see anything on you-tube on the subject.
I have the cam cover off already.
Many thanks.(y)
 

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i would set piston at same height then cant hit anything and leave the locking it until ready to fit head back on,, would ,deffo do timing chain if north of 60-70k as they have a habit to stretch, ie engine and gearbox out as chain at rear of car,
as for acces to manifold nuts i remove the driverside engine mount and drop engine down and ratchet strap it forward,, ie put towing eye in to pull off
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Yes I did wonder about the timing chain as the car is on the wrong side of 70k. Not sure what I'm going to find when I pull the head so I wont be too surprised if I have to pull the engine. I think the turbo must be totally knackered as I've never seen so much muck in the inlet manifold the swirl flaps are totally bogging. The engine was supposed to have water ingress damage but I think it may be a turbo problem .
I bought the car as a non runner although it did start and run really rough but wouldn't run for and length of time so I wouldn't be surprised and not too disappointed if I do need to replace the engine.
Can't say I'm looking forward to trying to remove the exhaust manifold/turbo assembly as it looks almost inaccessible. I'll do as you suggest though, many thanks.
279212
 

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its common for bent rods if sucked in water. if turbo failed and cart done a diesel runaway ie it eats its own engine oil and runs on it 10,000 revs for as long as takes to run out of engine oil,, by that time it would of destroyed a fair bit, dpf filter will also be nailed as well,, having a lot of oil out exhaust a sign of it, the timing chains are a disgrace on them,, i refuse to buy bmw diesels these days just to much to go wrong and it dose.. would save your self a load of doing the job twice and just do the lot to be honest
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So far I see an awful mess of oil on the inlet manifold side, the swirl flaps are absolutely bogging.
I'll certainly go along with you that removing the engine is really the correct way to go. I do know of a bare engine for sale that's supposedly has only done 18K miles for £1440. I know deep down that this is probably the best option go with however just for the learning curve I'll still go ahead and remove the head with the engine in place.
No doubt the clutch centre plate will also be well worn so there is another reason to pull the engine.
Do they have dual mass flywheels? and if so are they prone to failure? like many other cars these days.
Bent con rods would be difficult to detect I guess without removing them.
I noticed that the oil is really black and stinks of diesel so not sure what's happened, there possibly just neglect?

I know timing chain failure is a common thing these days especially on BM's. Bad news! I also have a 40k mile Peugeot 308 1600cc petrol that the wife uses, I've already bought a cam locking kit for it as not doubt I'll be into that soon too for a timing chain replacement.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I should have asked.
If I can disconnect the exhaust from underneath car???? (I haven't looked)
Can I pull the head complete with exhaust manifold and turbo assembly? Thanks again
 

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I should have asked.
If I can disconnect the exhaust from underneath car???? (I haven't looked)
Can I pull the head complete with exhaust manifold and turbo assembly? Thanks again
yes you can undo exhaust from under car single torx bolt just after the bend between the engine and subframe
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can see now that I can access the exhaust clamp at the turbo from the underside of the car. The turbo oil drain will be a challenge to disconnect though , as will the EGR cooler flange. What a horrible motor to work on!:confused:
 

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I can see now that I can access the exhaust clamp at the turbo from the underside of the car. The turbo oil drain will be a challenge to disconnect though , as will the EGR cooler flange. What a horrible motor to work on!:confused:
yes they are these days i pick and choose my repair jobs for people and do my best to use one word when it comes to that engine NO! being the word, really not designed to work on, or should i say not in a mini as that engine was designed for 3 series bmw in beginning, they replaced the psa 1.6hdi engine as they really do think its better,, reality is the older engines will do a easy 100k without to many issues as long as service is 10k and 12 months and dpf filter changed at 75k, where the n47 own engine see a lot around 70-80k chain issues,
pull the front off it mini call this service mode , hmmm i call it two hours of rusty bolts for headlights very common, then you can take driverside engine mount off then can pull engine forward from bulk head,
 

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yes they are these days i pick and choose my repair jobs for people and do my best to use one word when it comes to that engine NO! being the word, really not designed to work on, or should i say not in a mini as that engine was designed for 3 series bmw in beginning, they replaced the psa 1.6hdi engine as they really do think its better,, reality is the older engines will do a easy 100k without to many issues as long as service is 10k and 12 months and dpf filter changed at 75k, where the n47 own engine see a lot around 70-80k chain issues,
pull the front off it mini call this service mode , hmmm i call it two hours of rusty bolts for headlights very common, then you can take driverside engine mount off then can pull engine forward from bulk head,
yes they are these days i pick and choose my repair jobs for people and do my best to use one word when it comes to that engine NO! being the word, really not designed to work on, or should i say not in a mini as that engine was designed for 3 series bmw in beginning, they replaced the psa 1.6hdi engine as they really do think its better,, reality is the older engines will do a easy 100k without to many issues as long as service is 10k and 12 months and dpf filter changed at 75k, where the n47 own engine see a lot around 70-80k chain issues,
pull the front off it mini call this service mode , hmmm i call it two hours of rusty bolts for headlights very common, then you can take driverside engine mount off then can pull engine forward from bulk head,
Yes I should have done a bit more research before buying it as a noon runner winter project.
Oh well I'm committed now so need to get on with it. I'm definitely going to pull the engine now and will very likely fit a replacement engine I know of a 18K mile engine so this would likely be the most sensible route to take.
If however I don't need go the replacement engine route then I'll renew all the drive chains and tensioner.
Would you happen to know if its possible to pull the engine without pulling the gearbox?
I haven't looked too close yet but thought there may be a chance as there seems to be a fair bit of space between the drivers side inner wing and the engine when the top mounting is removed. Wishful thinking probably I guess. :rolleyes:

For sure there will be plenty of these cars landing up for scrap as I can fully understand no one wanting to get involved with them when engine issues arise.
Thanks, Jim L
 

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honestly bud pull both out as one unit drain all oils first, the wiring just pull the multi plugs off the ecu and remove battery to alternator cable so easy, i always put ecu in car on the seat where its safe, another little tip when putting geabox on engine by yourself ie balance engine on its front pulley with a few wood blocks and then really easy to drop gearbox on it,, then use the engine crane to lift it back on to its sump as such, i also use cable tie treaded to hold the thrust bearing and arm so dont drop off when do it,
remove front and walk it out is by far best way to pull it all out, and when putting back in make sure you put everything back on before so much better way forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK Mike thanks for that.
I should have the engine out of the car tomorrow if all goes to plan.
I already have the front off and radiator and intercooler off. The ACU rad is a right pain though as the flexi hoses don't have sufficient length to let you move the rad right out of the way, I have the ACU compressor off of the engine.
I found some water in the intercooler so no doubt the engine will have 'had it' however I'll pull the head and sump for a look in once I have the engine out.
Never again...... and I used to think the original minis were bad to work on. :rolleyes::D
 

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OK Mike thanks for that.
I should have the engine out of the car tomorrow if all goes to plan.
I already have the front off and radiator and intercooler off. The ACU rad is a right pain though as the flexi hoses don't have sufficient length to let you move the rad right out of the way, I have the ACU compressor off of the engine.
I found some water in the intercooler so no doubt the engine will have 'had it' however I'll pull the head and sump for a look in once I have the engine out.
Never again...... and I used to think the original minis were bad to work on. :rolleyes::D
so its not just me and most of the mechanics in the trade that feel that way about them lol, want to take the pain to next level thats when trying to rebuild them hope you are strong and have some 6ft long scaffold pipes handy as to say some of the bolts are tight would be under statement . ie the mains bolts and head bolts as were put in with hydraulic machines at factory,,
you will want to check the dmf as well as they have a habit of knocking them out around 80k as well,, another £300,
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It will be a happy day when I find something good about this motor :)
I'll have the engine and gearbox out this afternoon.
I guess there will be some black magic procedure for tightening down the head bolts :devilish: however I have a feeling I wont really need be doing this as I can see a replacement engine coming on the horizon.
I've never driven one of these "new" minis but my thoughts on working them at least is that they are a pile of :poop: LOL
 

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will save a whole lot of hurt just drop a good known engine in, just if got over 40k would do timing chain anyway of keeping it, maybe new cartridge on turbo worth doing while out
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was offered a 18.5k miles bare engine for £1450. Not sure yet if it comes with injectors or not. As you recommend I will definitely fit a new turbo cartridge.

At 18.5k do you think I should renew the timing chain anyhow? if so whats the best quality chain and tensioner kit available? Or at least are there chain kits to avoid
I'll very likely fit a new DMF and clutch unless I can get these parts along with the replacement engine

There was a half cupful of water in the inter-cooler so goodness knows what I'll find when I eventually pull the cylinder head, a bent con rod would not be a surprise though, possible piston and ring damage. I'm expecting the engine to be a right off.

No doubt I'll need to look at the DPF as well. I believe there are cleaning chemicals that can help to clean them but I no idea how well these cleaners work or not that's something else I need to study.

The swirl flaps were in a terrible oily carbon'y mess. I hate the idea of EGR due to the amount of crap going back down the inlet ports. My old BMW 3.0d X3 was in a similar mess.
 

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would delete the swirl flaps, yes thats a no brainer on engine low miles, would ask seller for reg number from what car it came out of then do a mileage check on that number and hpi should show a engine number to confirm its mileage,, there are many ebay scammers selling low miles engines that are not low miles as they think people cant check,
FAI or febi good kits, latest spec genuine one is prob as good as whats out there,, saying that the two i mentioned are very good as well,
if were mine i would delete the dpf delete the egr and swirl flaps have it all mapped out drop a stage 1 map on it they go so well like that, mot is visual check so open up dpf knock out filter part reweld it no one the wiser as such and they go through emissions on near zero, dpf filter dont tend to clean very well as its a saturation filter and even with extreme heat and pressure it would take hours to clear the residue left from regens at 800c,,
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The low mileage engine I know of should be genuine as the seller is local and reputable however yes I'll do a check as you suggest (y)
I really like the idea of knocking out the filter part of the DPF.(y) Can you tell me the best way to open it up for removal do I need to completely open it up or can I cut smallish access hole? I've never seen inside one so don't know what to expect.
For the EGR can I fit a blanking plate with a small hole to fool the ECU or does the ECU definitely need reprograming? I'm ok with TIG welding so no worries there.
I guess it may be necessary to reprogram the ECU if I knock out the filter part of the DPF?
IMG_1495.JPG
Sorry about all the questions I'm posting but I find your information really helpful.

On my old 3.0D X3 I simply removed the swirl flaps and fitted plugs in the holes I didn't need to reprogram the ECU. I guess it's the same for the Mini? Should I need to reprogram the ECU I guess I'll need to post it away as I doubt if there is anyone local here to do it.

Got the engine and box out this afternoon but will need to go and buy a No 60 ? torqx bit to remove the flywheel.
:(

279245
 

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when cut dpf out must do it in a away that when back on car cant tel its been welded back up or cut open, to schools of thought on these one is cut on the welds to one of the pipes that come out and reweld on these welds best way, or cut a hole in back against engine block where cannot be seen,
i would have egr valve mapped out at same time as dpf filter its just a better fix brings it al together, swirl flaps tends to just be the flaps part and leave the controlled there and working, ecu must be mapped for delete, Celtic tuning are one of the best in the uk and have agents all over the uk. i work at a garage that is a agent
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Mike,
I've been reading up on DPF's and now understand that the ECU needs a remap due to being linked with differential pressure sensors. I did look at the Celtic tuning website and it looks to be a good company right enough.
Would you know can I simply send off the ECU for remapping or must I take it with the car to an agent i.e. does it need to be in the running car for re-mapping? I guess though I can simply phone Celtic to find out.
Anyway I have now purchased a genuine18K mile engine with injectors, flywheel, clutch and turbo. I have the registration of the car it came from and a receipt from the breaker with mileage shown on it.
I guess its worth replacing the timing chain and tensioner while I have the chance however this leads to another question. After disturbing it is it easy to get a good gasket seal between the timing case and cylinder head? What gasket sealant is best to use these days.
Thanks again (y)
 
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