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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a slight variation on tick over but after driving some miles and sat in xmas traffic tick over speed increased and was erratic also oil light came on and went off a couple of times then stayed off
No engine light on but couple of registered codes p1050 and p0012

Did notice the car went into limp mode

Do you think this is a failing inlet vanos solenoid and was giving poor idling
 

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Got a slight variation on tick over but after driving some miles and sat in xmas traffic tick over speed increased and was erratic also oil light came on and went off a couple of times then stayed off
No engine light on but couple of registered codes p1050 and p0012

Did notice the car went into limp mode

Do you think this is a failing inlet vanos solenoid and was giving poor idling
below link worth a read saves me whole lot of typing
the p1050 is low idle code maybe caused by the fault related to the vvt, maybe the step work for vvt is failing or the gears have got worn out common around 130k
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0012
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got a slight variation on tick over but after driving some miles and sat in xmas traffic tick over speed increased and was erratic also oil light came on and went off a couple of times then stayed off
No engine light on but couple of registered codes p1050 and p0012

Did notice the car went into limp mode

Do you think this is a failing inlet vanos solenoid and was giving poor idling
below link worth a read saves me whole lot of typing
the p1050 is low idle code maybe caused by the fault related to the vvt, maybe the step work for vvt is failing or the gears have got worn out common around 130k
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0012
This seems to point to the valvetronic motor. Seems the way to test them is to use a ohms meter

Put one connection on the body and the other on a terminal

If the reading constantly changes the motor is knackered if it stays static on one number then device is ok

Will give it a try in the morning
 

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This seems to point to the valvetronic motor. Seems the way to test them is to use a ohms meter

Put one connection on the body and the other on a terminal

If the reading constantly changes the motor is knackered if it stays static on one number then device is ok

Will give it a try in the morning
that motor draws big amps and they do fail over 100k being a motor that turns you might get a reading thats fine one minute then one thats not another minute depending on where the stater stops and starts
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This seems to point to the valvetronic motor. Seems the way to test them is to use a ohms meter

Put one connection on the body and the other on a terminal

If the reading constantly changes the motor is knackered if it stays static on one number then device is ok

Will give it a try in the morning
that motor draws big amps and they do fail over 100k being a motor that turns you might get a reading thats fine one minute then one thats not another minute depending on where the stater stops and starts
Used laptop to check for the codes and these may be accurate codes rather than generic p codes
2551 and 287D see pic for descriptions



Tested the valvetronic motor with the ohms meter and number stayed static
I understand from what you wrote that it still could be faulty

I decided to remove my vvt solenoids to inspect for debris and both had a fair bit on them. More so the inlet side which could be the reason it threw up the temporary fault codes

Its had an oil and filter change since the last time I cleaned them but...

I am suspecting some of this debris on the vvt's could be from when I had the valve stem oil seals changed whilst the head was still in position. After the last oil change

This could be bits from the old brittle seals and and dislodged thick oil from those areas

Anyway I have cleaned them and swopped exhaust to inlet and inlet to exhaust to see if position of fault code returns but to the exhaust rather than the inlet

The vvt are different to each other and not sure if this may unbalance the system.

Is it worth doing another oil and filter change and is there a flush I can use to get rid of remaining debis
 

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Used laptop to check for the codes and these may be accurate codes rather than generic p codes
2551 and 287D see pic for descriptions



Tested the valvetronic motor with the ohms meter and number stayed static
I understand from what you wrote that it still could be faulty

I decided to remove my vvt solenoids to inspect for debris and both had a fair bit on them. More so the inlet side which could be the reason it threw up the temporary fault codes

Its had an oil and filter change since the last time I cleaned them but...

I am suspecting some of this debris on the vvt's could be from when I had the valve stem oil seals changed whilst the head was still in position. After the last oil change

This could be bits from the old brittle seals and and dislodged thick oil from those areas

Anyway I have cleaned them and swopped exhaust to inlet and inlet to exhaust to see if position of fault code returns but to the exhaust rather than the inlet

The vvt are different to each other and not sure if this may unbalance the system.

Is it worth doing another oil and filter change and is there a flush I can use to get rid of remaining debis
chances are vanos code is due to oil not getting through to vanos,, the vvt one intermittent could be a wiring issue or like said on higher mileage one the motor gets intermittent,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Used laptop to check for the codes and these may be accurate codes rather than generic p codes
2551 and 287D see pic for descriptions



Tested the valvetronic motor with the ohms meter and number stayed static
I understand from what you wrote that it still could be faulty

I decided to remove my vvt solenoids to inspect for debris and both had a fair bit on them. More so the inlet side which could be the reason it threw up the temporary fault codes

Its had an oil and filter change since the last time I cleaned them but...

I am suspecting some of this debris on the vvt's could be from when I had the valve stem oil seals changed whilst the head was still in position. After the last oil change

This could be bits from the old brittle seals and and dislodged thick oil from those areas

Anyway I have cleaned them and swopped exhaust to inlet and inlet to exhaust to see if position of fault code returns but to the exhaust rather than the inlet

The vvt are different to each other and not sure if this may unbalance the system.

Is it worth doing another oil and filter change and is there a flush I can use to get rid of remaining debis
chances are vanos code is due to oil not getting through to vanos,, the vvt one intermittent could be a wiring issue or like said on higher mileage one the motor gets intermittent,
What would you do to cure errors
 

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What would you do to cure errors
would prob start with wiring to vvt motor peal wiring back to where it joins the fuse box and run meter check for bad connections if thats all good swap on the vvt motor reset the codes see what you have, chances are its the motor as they wear out as always on the go
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What would you do to cure errors
would prob start with wiring to vvt motor peal wiring back to where it joins the fuse box and run meter check for bad connections if thats all good swap on the vvt motor reset the codes see what you have, chances are its the motor as they wear out as always on the go
Would you go for new at £115 off Ebay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/372471988526

Or used

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/182901942186
 

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more inclined to replace it with new one it really does take a lot of stick its like having your wipers on all the time your car is running and has such a big impact on how the car runs if its gone worn and lazy. might be worth writing to company who refurbish starter and ask do they refurb those motors, i'm a big fan of refurb gear when done right most of time get a better than factory build to it
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
more inclined to replace it with new one it really does take a lot of stick its like having your wipers on all the time your car is running and has such a big impact on how the car runs if its gone worn and lazy. might be worth writing to company who refurbish starter and ask do they refurb those motors, i'm a big fan of refurb gear when done right most of time get a better than factory build to it
When replacing the valvetronic motor is it just I case of removing the 3 bolts and unwinding the 4mm allan key out until the unit comes out and fitting in reverse


Also does the quadrant on the eccentric shaft wear or is it just the failing of the internals of the motor

Does the new motor need to be calibrated in first use or will the ECU work out where it needs to be.

Does this motor affect tick over speeds that I have been having issues with
 

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When replacing the valvetronic motor is it just I case of removing the 3 bolts and unwinding the 4mm allan key out until the unit comes out and fitting in reverse


Also does the quadrant on the eccentric shaft wear or is it just the failing of the internals of the motor

Does the new motor need to be calibrated in first use or will the ECU work out where it needs to be.

Does this motor affect tick over speeds that I have been having issues with
link below should help,
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...Faults/134-FUEL-Cooper_Valvetronic_Faults.htm

as for fitting yes your on money with it, the system when ignition switches on will go through a process where it works out where the stops are on the vvt assembly, its worth leaving rocker cover off after install and just check by switching on ignition that the shaft moves correctly
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When replacing the valvetronic motor is it just I case of removing the 3 bolts and unwinding the 4mm allan key out until the unit comes out and fitting in reverse


Also does the quadrant on the eccentric shaft wear or is it just the failing of the internals of the motor

Does the new motor need to be calibrated in first use or will the ECU work out where it needs to be.

Does this motor affect tick over speeds that I have been having issues with
link below should help,
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...Faults/134-FUEL-Cooper_Valvetronic_Faults.htm

as for fitting yes your on money with it, the system when ignition switches on will go through a process where it works out where the stops are on the vvt assembly, its worth leaving rocker cover off after install and just check by switching on ignition that the shaft moves correctly
Wasnt going to remove rocker cover to install the valvetronic motor. Is it needed to be removed to inspect movement of the shaft by the motor
 

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Wasnt going to remove rocker cover to install the valvetronic motor. Is it needed to be removed to inspect movement of the shaft by the motor
in theory should be ok just to replace it, but me being me would then have a gremlin in back of my mind saying hmmm should check that the worm and pinion is meshed correctly and what if its not hmmm the worst outcome could be a sticking high lift valve assembly holding valves open to long and bending them, ironically the 30 minutes it takes and no cost to be sure in my mind has always out weighed the bad outcome, ie bent valves destroyed head etc. what if your problem with it is in fact wear in this pinion jamming the motor causing the code or the motor, something no one can tell with out offering up the parts and checking,, just remember not checking is all part of the mother of all f...ups
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wasnt going to remove rocker cover to install the valvetronic motor. Is it needed to be removed to inspect movement of the shaft by the motor
in theory should be ok just to replace it, but me being me would then have a gremlin in back of my mind saying hmmm should check that the worm and pinion is meshed correctly and what if its not hmmm the worst outcome could be a sticking high lift valve assembly holding valves open to long and bending them, ironically the 30 minutes it takes and no cost to be sure in my mind has always out weighed the bad outcome, ie bent valves destroyed head etc. what if your problem with it is in fact wear in this pinion jamming the motor causing the code or the motor, something no one can tell with out offering up the parts and checking,, just remember not checking is all part of the mother of all f...ups
Do I not need to replace the rocket cover gasket and seals
 

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Do I not need to replace the rocket cover gasket and seals
only ever replace them if been on engine from new and look cracked
 

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The most likely cause for the fault code P1050 in your 2017 Chevrolet Duramax is a fault with the reductant/exhaust fluid tank level.
Faulty Reductant Pump and Sensor Assembly are the most common causes of a P1050
Read More: P0015 Symptoms and Causes
dont think you could even fit a Duramax engine is a bmw mini
 
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