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First mini - 2007 Cooper S

2026 Views 13 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  mike1967
Morning all,

Thought I'd sign up as I've found a few threads helpful on here already! Recently bought a 2007 Mini Cooper S as a run around for me and when I've finished working on my other cars it'll replace the wife's Fiesta.

Got to say, I like it a lot more than I was expecting, very fun little car with lots of character! Took a while to find one in the spec me and the wife could agree on as on the "must have's" list was black or very dark bodywork, heated seats, heated front window, xenons and cruise control.

It definitely needs some loving, came with a host of issues and very short mot, but it was also cheap, so can't complain!

Gear linkage bush gone at the selector - Fixed the bush back in place with glue...Not sure how long this will last, but so far so good.
Return spring for selector not raising the selector, so the gear stick doesn't centre - Haven't had a chance to pull this part out the box yet, but access looks good.
Thermostat stuck closed or near closed - Replacement should be arriving today.
Bonnet latches not working - Needed a new cable, release lever and much cleaning of the latches so they return properly, now fixed.
Broken grill fixings - Fixed with plast-aid.
NSR caliper handbrake mech seized - Fixed.
Sunroof stuck and will not raise properly - Not looked into this yet!

So the car gets quite warm with the thermostat not working correctly. I am driving it to work as it's only 2.5 miles each way and keeping an eye on the coolant temp to avoid any issues (Much thanks to the thread detailing how to access the hidden menu to view coolant temp!). I am also suspicious it might have overheated prior to my ownership and need a head gasket, but I'll do the thermostat first and go from there! I pressure tested the cooling system and all seemed fine, but it does smoke a bit on start-up.. Could just be condensation evaporating off, but it seems to be quite a bit of steam...Haven't done the sniff test to see if it smells sweet yet.. Time will tell.
I also noticed a slight rattle on startup when cold this morning, so will order up a timing chain. The car has done 103k miles and I cant see any record in the history of it being done yet. I've read broken top guides are common on these engines.
I noticed some minor oil leaks around the valve cover and oil cooler housing, so some new gaskets are in order.
Alloys could do with painting.
Oh and she needs a good service.

So all in all, in need of some good mechanical TLC. The bodywork and interior are very tidy though, so very happy with that.

She came with an aftermarket intake and 3" cat-back exhaust, which is getting swapped back to oem as it's all bit a droney and whooshy for us at the moment :D. But all in all I'm very pleased with how it drives and looks.

Anyway, enough blabbering, here are some pics!

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That's all I can think of for now!

Other cars in the household are:
2014 1.25 Fiesta (Mini will be replacing this when the Phaeton is fixed)
2002 RX-7 Spirit R - Coolant seal failure, the engine currently in bits in the shed waiting for me to have more spare time!
2004 VW Phaeton 5.0 V10 TDI LWB - Engine rebuild with new turbos etc, currently in bits also! Hoping to have this one back together within a month or two.

Cheers
Tom.
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they do run hot anyway 112c max, there is a revised thermo housing that lowers the temp 109c would avoid non genuine housings on those engines seen a lot of cheap ones do more harm than good, link bleow for latest spec with wiring part ie turns the two plugs in to a 4 pin housing as such
do you have stickers on engine bay saying forge,, would be funny if it has as someone would of spent a good grand on motor in the past, when you do chain could drop sump and have a look at bottom of pistons and rods, i would always fit a genuine chain tensioner latyest version is longer and spring more progressive than after market ones are very hard as such, £53 from ocean bmw , FAI or febi bilsteen good chain kits, thats said genuine complete kit is under £300 for latest update one, below link one i done from a blow up
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Thanks for the advice. I have bought a supposed OE quality thermostat housing with an opening temperature of 105 degrees but may wait for a genuine one if they're known to cause issues.
I assume they run so hot for emissions, 112 degrees seems pretty excessive though!

I think the forge sticker is just the brand that made the intake, Forge Motorsports. It'll be on eBay tonight and an oem airbox and duct is being fitted :). If any guide pieces are missing I'll be dropping the sump to find them, might be worth doing anyway to ensure it's sealed and the pickup is clean. Looks easy enough on these motors :). I'm not used to working on cars with so much space in the engine bay, I'm liking it :D. I'll look into getting a genuine tensioner, thanks for the tips (y).
they have room but when it comes to cat or head off its best to pull front off or should away from front of engine is easy way, that said its possible on turbo cars to use stub removal tools and leave manifold there bit then i live to remove the turbo and check them off the car etc,, one really good think of those turbo's is the turbine cartridge is so easy to change can be done while leaving the wastegate and manifold on the car but must glue the oil pipe undo in place to pipe to prevent it form moving if move then they tend to leak after, and its a mother to get at lower end or the oil feed pipe to bloc cat off front off, i also start the engine before clipping front back on it check no leaks believe me i have forgot a few times got all back together and oil leak form turbo feed pipe union, its like they melt over years, genuine ones are £60 ish. only takes me 30 minutes if all bolts come undone,, common is headlight bolts that get over tightened and no grease on the threads i always put a dab of greases on them or oil ir if have oily hands i scrape them on fingers this leaves oil on them,, ie rub threads up and down with dirty hands, also keeps hands a bit cleaner lol, the n14 engines have a common issue what they do is pcv valve pipework feeds in to the inlet manifold just under number 1 cylinder ie gearbox end on those engines so when they get older and piston rings go weaker or get built up with crud that causes blow past ie higher crankcase pressures this forces oil to bottom on inlet manifold where t can collect until when the engine gets used at high revs it can over load the cylinder with oil and causes a piston failure as did this car i just done,, i put the latest type piston rings in it and now is got zero crankcase pressure nearly juts the displacement vacs as such and zero breathing time will tell as its not been beaten on yet just running in and sorting out other issues ie high pressure fuel pump once that done its getting a rolling road run see what its got,, if i keep it will get timing chain done again in around 50-60k maybe or when my diagnostics tells me the vanos positions are drifting off again etc, will also get seafoam spray;d once a month in to inlet form month one this will prevent carbon build up,, will also use fully syn oil 5/40w ever 6k and seafoam added to oil 50 miles before changes that will stop any crud from making a home inside the engine lol, will also have oil cooler at some point if it gets track day'd etc, i got a 3 times bigger intercooler that might get added to it, if i keep it,, but i'm looking for a clubman already with later n18 engine as a project at some point. ie decat and forged pistons and rods etc maybe couple of fast road camshafts and 8k plus rev out there's 2k in parts just in that lot,, but must be a sleeper ie like them to sound standard so dont bring attention from the law
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I had a look at the issues Saturday as she failed the mot on emissions last week.. The symptoms were fairly conclusive. Sweet-smelling steam from the exhaust, pressurizing the coolant instantly, coolant smells of fuel etc. Head was warped (Likely from the faulty t-stat), allowing exhaust gas into the cooling system from cylinders 2 & 3 and also allowing coolant into those cylinders, throwing off my emissions. I'll be taking the head in to get skimmed after work today. It's only very slightly warped, but enough to see the carbon lines into the cooling system on the head gasket. and enough to just about not be true with the steel ruler test.

I had the selector linkage out the box while the access is good with the front end off. After a bit of cleaning and fiddling it now works perfectly. While I'm in there I'm changing the timing chain, oil cooler/filter seals, injector seals, crank seal, Head gasket and all associated seals, water pump, pulley, re-sealing the sump with loctite and giving her a full service. I'm going to make up a new turbo feed line as I don't like the look of the standard hardline... Then I should have a nice leak free engine, hopefully, for many years! I've also got an outer CV boot to do and a rear wheel bearing, then it's back in for the mot!

I'll probably pull the subframe and give it a lick of rust converter and epoxy while I'm there... Whatever it was painted with from factory was pretty pants.

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Should be all back together and running later this week :).
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your valve stem seals look to be gone as well ie black carbon build up on the head ie oil burning, also i would have head checked for cracks if ever been over heated nothing worse than spend all that money and find the head is for the bin etc,, or find a known good head,, also timing chain while its in bits new chain a must do job, also inlet valves will prob need cleaning in back end in the ports, also if been driven a fair while throwing antifreeze and water at the 02 sensors you might find them to be damaged, just giving heads up to what i have in past found on them,, if were my car i would give it a refresh rings and big end bearings as well as head is off it another £80 and fit the latest type ring set ie n18 engines rings just done one like that and has no crankcase pressure and 200psi compression ,
ring set
chain kit and gasket etc you will after head skim need a 2 or 4 notch thickness, just use genuine latest tensioner
big ends
you will need big end bolts from bmw they are £1.09 each x 8
camshaft bolts and crankshaft bolt as all are stretch type use once,
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The valve stems seals are fine, the carbon build-up is about normal for the mileage. I have given the intake side a good clean while it was off, it wasn't too bad, but there was some build-up from the pcv system. The head is crack free. I may change the valve stem seals as I do have a set with the hg kit, will be time depending as I've got lots else to get on with on other cars, not keen to get into a bottom end rebuild with it :).
put some diesel in all 4 bores if any just runs away then rings will be worn easy test to do, and as been cooked chances are it will be as the heat affects the tensile within in them, also the stem seals on a cooked engine will be knackered as made of rubber and the age of car and add its got hot enough to warp the head will be a big pain after spending all that money on gasket and head bolts etc to find cant get mot on it due to using oil etc, those engines are known for timng chain stretch best practice 60.000 miles change it as running around with retarded engine will cause heat and hurt it also affects the emissions for mot,
I comp tested the engine prior to taking it apart and it has good, even compression across all cylinders. I've built a lot of engines and I'm happy the bottom end is all good after inspecting it (y). An overheating engine wouldn't be enough to temper the already very high tensile steel piston rings I'd think! They see temperatures of over 2500 degrees Celcius from combustion already! Although I'm not certain it has even overheated, just a theory as the head is warped a very slight amount, barely enough to get a feeler gauge through. No other signs of overheating are present, the car was in very early signs of failure. It maintained a normal running temperature when driving 150 miles on the motorway home. The leak was between layers of the HG, so slight lack of clamping force in the centre. The valve stem seals are good, it's not worth the hassle to remove and reinstall all the valves to replace them in my opinion. I appreciate the advice though :).
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An overheating engine wouldn't be enough to temper the already very high tensile steel piston rings ,, you know best as the car is in front of you,
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Got the head back, now nice and flat, just need this weather to improve and I'll get her back together :).
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they do run hot anyway 112c max, there is a revised thermo housing that lowers the temp 109c would avoid non genuine housings on those engines seen a lot of cheap ones do more harm than good, link bleow for latest spec with wiring part ie turns the two plugs in to a 4 pin housing as such
do you have stickers on engine bay saying forge,, would be funny if it has as someone would of spent a good grand on motor in the past, when you do chain could drop sump and have a look at bottom of pistons and rods, i would always fit a genuine chain tensioner latyest version is longer and spring more progressive than after market ones are very hard as such, £53 from ocean bmw , FAI or febi bilsteen good chain kits, thats said genuine complete kit is under £300 for latest update one, below link one i done from a blow up
there is a box by the drivers headlight where the hood cable switches into two cables....I openwed mine and lubed it esp toward s the two cables ....works fine now
dont forget a plus size headgasket for it two notch ie there will be two holes punched in it under the chain tensioner area when gasket is on the block if that makes sense, turbo cars must have ring compression ratio as will damage them
below link for idea to size, notice the two holes at rear edge that would be under the chain tensioner hole on the head
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