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Out of interest, how many miles was on your clock before you needed to replace the fluid?
Thinking back it was just over 70000m but my lads clubby was 76000 and still going strong, i assume with me using it as a Driving instructor car it was doing loads of regens dont know if that affected it t all..
 

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Thinking back it was just over 70000m but my lads clubby was 76000 and still going strong, i assume with me using it as a Driving instructor car it was doing loads of regens dont know if that affected it t all..
One of my Doopers has done 130,000 miles and its perfect so far. Its all motorway miles mind you so maybe that has something to do with it.

My other Dooper is on about 44,000 miles now and again that's a motorway muncher but with that one it had a bit of bother with its dpf a few months ago and regenerated itself then failed on a few other issues a few weeks later (MAF/ EGR and burt intercooler air intake pipe) and one of the codes was a dpf failure. BMW replaced the MAF sensor under warranty, replaced the rocker cover (false diagnostics on their part) which cost me £315 and handed me the car back in a worse state than before it went in so in the end I had to fix it myself by diagnosing the burst intercooler air intake pipe and doing a forced regen of the dpf with my diagnostics equipment. That was about 5 weeks ago and touch wood all has been perfect since and the car goes like a rocket again :)
 

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One of my Doopers has done 130,000 miles and its perfect so far. Its all motorway miles mind you so maybe that has something to do with it.

My other Dooper is on about 44,000 miles now and again that's a motorway muncher but with that one it had a bit of bother with its dpf a few months ago and regenerated itself then failed on a few other issues a few weeks later (MAF/ EGR and burt intercooler air intake pipe) and one of the codes was a dpf failure. BMW replaced the MAF sensor under warranty, replaced the rocker cover (false diagnostics on their part) which cost me £315 and handed me the car back in a worse state than before it went in so in the end I had to fix it myself by diagnosing the burst intercooler air intake pipe and doing a forced regen of the dpf with my diagnostics equipment. That was about 5 weeks ago and touch wood all has been perfect since and the car goes like a rocket again :)
Are they both PSAs or BMWs and i have had to replace intercooler as it was leaking, mines not right it has an intermittent problem that its had for 3 years, every now and again when pulling away with low ish revs it drops into limp mode when we fetch the error codes off it comes up with fuel rail pressure outside parameters i have replaced maf sensor, just replaced outside air temp sensor also, its been showing -30 when its been +9 outside, i have a fuel rail pressure sensor just need time to replace it and i also think there is a pressure sensor or valve on the high pressure pump.
 

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Both my Dooper's are PSA'S and never had any mechanical problems as such with them apart from the intercooler pipe splitting and it taking out the Maf on her car. My Dooper has 130k on it and the only real mechanical maintenance it's had other than servicing is a turbo rebuild which I personally done last year purely for peace of mind due to its mileage.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

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Hi Guys, I have just sorted out the DPF additive on my Wife's 08 Mini. I followed the instructions that were contained in this thread and to be totally honest, they were great.

I would just like to add a few details that haven't been answered though.

I bought a 1 ltr bottle of Eolys 176 (pat fluid) from Euro car parts for £30.20, as this is all you need to fill the bag.

My bag was split, so when I started to fill it, the fluid started to leak out. I wanted to get the car done the same day, so decided to buy a 2 ltr hydration bladder, made by Karrimor, from sports direct at my local store, which was on offer for £9.99.
You need a 2 ltr bag, since the bag has to lay flat in the plastic tank holder under the car.
I cut off the carrying handle and cut the tube to fit on the original connector of the mini dpf bag.
Finally, refitted everything, went onto YouTube and followed the video of how to reset warning lights for brakes, and there was an option to reset the additive light (same symbol that flashes up) pressed reset, 80,000 miles quickly flashed up and hey presto, all done.

A big thank you to all you guys on here, your information was invaluable, saved me £100's

Just hope my experience has helped more of you to save money too. The total cost for the job............£40.19
😉 sorted
 

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the fluid counter can only be reset with software via eobd socket, i use autocom cdp+ or if your local garage has a delphi system that will also reset counter and will also bleed prime the pump.. also it will reset adaptations and force regen the dpf.. just filling tank wont do any good must have this level reset.. also if car has any other fault codes ie glow plug out or a sensor problem etc the dpf will not regen and will not force regen either.. i add cataclean dpf cleaner to the eloys fluid bag helps with short trips start and stops also mot time it always goes through very low readings.. also everytime you undo the fuel filler the fluid will be sprayed in to fuel tank going on a set theory of you will be filling the fuel tank with diesel and sprays a dose for a full tanks worth,, so the odd £5 here and there is expensive in the long run.. you can buy autocom cdp+ online will need the silver case model as this is full copy allows all functions. autocom have a website.
 

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Does my 2007 Mini Cooper D 82k need this fuel additive?

I was going through the Check List and saw this warning light with 70k underneath.
Does it mean-
It should have been done at 70k.
It's not due until another 70k.
Or it was last done at 70k?
Confusing!
 

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Does my 2007 Mini Cooper D 82k need this fuel additive?

I was going through the Check List and saw this warning light with 70k underneath.
Does it mean-
It should have been done at 70k.
It's not due until another 70k.
Or it was last done at 70k?
Confusing!
additive works on a counter so every time you open and close the filler cap it sprays a dose for a full tank of diesel in, so its important to fill car everytime and run car until low fuel light comes on.. dpf filters last 70k volvo and ford who use same engine and dpf systems change dpf as part of 70k services they also include eolys fluid at 37k intervals,
running a blocked dpf filter will destroy the turbo early and this in turn will nail the engine if goes in to over run.. just a little heads up.. also autocom cdp plus will allow you to change both without a garage vist to reset it all after changing them,,, alos i'm dpf blocked fuel economy gets poor as it keeps trying to regen
.below link
https://www.theaa.com/driving-advice/fuels-environment/diesel-particulate-filters
 

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Has anyone managed to do this on a newer MINI SD? (I have a 2012 Countryman SD) but cannot work out where that bag is. (I have the DPF warning light comes on when starting the car and goes off after 20 seconds).
Anyone?
 

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Could someone who has reset the computer to tell the car that new additive has been added please add clear and precise instructions to this thread.

The previous discussion was several years ago and there are no links to software or youtube.
 

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Could someone who has reset the computer to tell the car that new additive has been added please add clear and precise instructions to this thread.

The previous discussion was several years ago and there are no links to software or youtube.
you need autocom cdp plus link below
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2018-TCS-CDP-Pro-Plus-Auto-OBD2-Car-Truck-Scanner-Diagnostic-Tool-for-Autocom/292722479779?hash=item44279e92a3:g:TrcAAOSwUgdbfiTR

after installed it on a laptop,
connect to car first screen select car and diesel option form drop down boxes,,,
then connect to car,
1.read any fault codes clear them,
2 left hand pane,,, sqaure small box with crossed tools on it select this,
3on this screen you will have a drop down long box at top of screen with a ok button on it,, select the drop down look for particulate filter options ie regen, replace. reset. or at the very bottom is reset additive option click on this follow on the on screen instructions,,
after this i would force a reg on dpf if blocked, afte this i would go through the other options for resetting but not the injectors encode option unless you have changed a injector,

ADDED IMPORTANT POINT THE LIFE OF DPF FILTER ON THOSE IS 75K THEN NEEDS REPLACING, below the cheapest option
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diesel-Particulate-Filter-DPF-fits-MINI-CLUBMAN-COOPER-R55-1-6D-07-to-10-Soot-BM/332358683445?fits=Car+Make:Mini|Cars+Type:Cooper+D&hash=item4d621f0b35:g:uqcAAOSwrlRZzqcC
 

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I have had no success with a generic obd tool software, Its been a while so I don't remember exactly. But its either key in ignition on but without engine start and then manual reset or as ur parked engine on reset. After I got the fluid filled I was able reset and now the count is reset to 120.000km. As mentioned elsewhere on the thread If the bag is ok you would need 2lt. of fluid from empty and since its a PSA engine its cheaper to source the fluid from other sources. I wish I could have provided the exact steps but its more or less the same idea as resetting other service messages.
 

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I have had no success with a generic obd tool software, Its been a while so I don't remember exactly. But its either key in ignition on but without engine start and then manual reset or as ur parked engine on reset. After I got the fluid filled I was able reset and now the count is reset to 120.000km. As mentioned elsewhere on the thread If the bag is ok you would need 2lt. of fluid from empty and since its a PSA engine its cheaper to source the fluid from other sources. I wish I could have provided the exact steps but its more or less the same idea as resetting other service messages.
autocom cdp plus will reset it all there is nothing else around for the money ie £35 that will do it and do it all, no point wasting money on silly little generic hand held because they look easy, as they are easy for a reason ie dont do much more that read generic codes on emissions and not not P-codes dealer only, or read and write options as needed to encode things like injectors or dpf reset dpf regen dpf replace and counter reset on additive tank
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluetooth-TCS-CDP-Plus-Autocom-Car-Truck-Auto-OBD2-OBDII-Diagnostic-Tool/392269326427?hash=item5b5512e85b:g:DTIAAOSwze9crb~w
 
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