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I did manage to lift the unit out of the tank (off-side/drivers side) with the fuel hose still connected, do-able but fiddly. I advise you check the wiring from the sender on filter side to the connector on top of the the pump.
281536
 

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I did manage to lift the unit out of the tank (off-side/drivers side) with the fuel hose still connected, do-able but fiddly. I advise you check the wiring from the sender on filter side to the connector on top of the the pump. View attachment 281536
Thats my suspicion as well Tex. General wiring looks good so its down to filter unit or instrument dial. The rest of the dials are ok so hopefully thats the one. Will likely go for a complete removal so I can fully inspect.
 

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Hello everybody. Maybe you can help me with my fuel level problem. I have Mini Cooper S 2009. My gauge shows half of the tank. Four carrots are missing. It doesn't matter if the tank is full or empty. I replaced passanger site with the pump and drive site with filter. Nothing changed. When ignition is on and I pull up passanger site, carrots going down. When I checked multimeter and tank is full passanger site shows 21 Ohm and drive site 299 Ohm. I have couple spare one in my garage and all exactly the same. Drive site when full 299 ohm and when empty 21ohm and passanger site when full 21ohm and 299 ohm when empty. It is correct ?? Someone wrote earlier that it should be 370 ohm for both sites. when I connect both wires to increase resistance then it shows full tank
 

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I doubt it's your fuel gauge, you can test it in system check I think it's 2.0 combi test
Hi Tex - replaced Filter Housing and Pump now (put in new filter so not totally wasted time) and still have a dead gauge. Checked all wiring in footwell and re-made the earth 2 > 1 connection. Have ordered a 2nd hand instrument panel as a last resort. Stumped now.
 

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Have you checked the fuel gauge in the combi test ?
Hi Tex - I was previously getting code 2 and am now getting code 3. First number is showing 270 (presumably faulty) and second number shows 220 which seems about right for the amount of fuel in the tank.
I have seen posts by people with code 3 finding a wiring issue but I can’t see a problem with any of it.
Could it be the connector that goes on the pump?
 

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It must be a wiring fault, remove connector from the top of the pump (passenger side) and take another fuel level reading.
 

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It must be a wiring fault, remove connector from the top of the pump (passenger side) and take another fuel level reading.
Hi Tex - i havent done that yet but I can see that neither fuel reading has changed after driving around 100 miles. I’ll do that test & I have been given a loan of another instrument panel to try. Given that both sides are changed - if an instrument panel swap doesnt fix it, it only leaves wiring. Ive undone the tape and been all over it but couldnt see an issue.
Only bits I cant see if where it goes up via the fusebox and from the pump down to the floor.
 

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Have you tested the instrument panel/gauges ? I'm sure i posted how to do this in previous posts. You need to test the wiring connections with a multimeter, a simple continuity test. This morning i have been repairing a seized handbrake cable on the wife's mini....... i hate these little ferking cars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Have you tested the instrument panel/gauges ? I'm sure i posted how to do this in previous posts. You need to test the wiring connections with a multimeter, a simple continuity test. This morning i have been repairing a seized handbrake cable on the wife's mini....... i hate these little ferking cars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks - I’ll have a look for that. I bought it as a project and everything is fine just now except the fuel gauge. Will keep at it!
 

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thanks - I’ll have a look for that. I bought it as a project and everything is fine just now except the fuel gauge. Will keep at it!
Hi Tex - I tried the test menu 2.0 tonight and while the test runs all the lights it doesnt move any of the dials (except the rev counter).
 

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There is a test for every gauge lights etc. in the instrument cluster, just can't remember how to do it ,the wife is out in her mini.....
 

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I'll word it a little better: it is a single test in that every gauge will move and every light will illuminate on the instrument cluster
 

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Aside from the 2 sender wires on the Fuel Filter Housing, there is a wire into the bottom of the filter bay and a wire to a copper disc. Does anyone know what they are for and it the could cause an issue if wrong way around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Check the loom by the passenger's rear footwell (RHD car). Look for the earth wire where the single wire to the dash is joined up with 2 wires (1 for each sender).

It's a crimp connector and wires get loose even if they look secure pull them. Easy to fix, so worth checking, especially if the dash test shows 1 sender normally and other other not (full if I remember).
 

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Check the loom by the passenger's rear footwell (RHD car). Look for the earth wire where the single wire to the dash is joined up with 2 wires (1 for each sender).

It's a crimp connector and wires get loose even if they look secure pull them. Easy to fix, so worth checking, especially if the dash test shows 1 sender normally and other other not (full if I remember).
hi K3fus - yeah it looked ok but I remade the connection on a screw terminal just to make sure but thats hasnt fixed it unfortunately.
 

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hi K3fus - yeah it looked ok but I remade the connection on a screw terminal just to make sure but thats hasnt fixed it unfortunately.
k3fus - just for clarity are those wires brown? The ones I am referring to were right in the rear passenger footwell and were brown, connected by a rubberised (yellow) crimp. I replaced that crimp with a screw terminal connector (also tested ignition with the wires just twisted together which also didnt work).

Plan tonight is to start continuity testing from the fuel filter sender towards the instrument panel.
 

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I'll word it a little better: it is a single test in that every gauge will move and every light will illuminate on the instrument cluster
Yeah - I cant find any test other than 2.0 Combi Test. I ran that last night and it lit everything up and moved the rev counter needle but didnt move the Speedo, oil gauge or fuel gauge.
 
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