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Discussion Starter · #121 ·

Go to submenu - 6.0 and 6.2

It works if you have the big speedo in the middle too, use the mileage/clock reset button.

Here are the sub menus:-
Test: 1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calendar week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injector status, Cylinder count, Engine factor.
2.0 Combi system Test
3.0 Service intervall counter
4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.
5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.
6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)
7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed
8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3
9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)
10.0 Land codes
11.0 Unit codes
12.0 No funktion
13.0 Gong test
14.0 – 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures
15.0 – 18.0 No function
19.0 On/Off for Test menu.
20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption Formula for correction: Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.
20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor 20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. for consumption factor
20.3 Saves the new consumption factor and shows new value 21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)

14 Posts
Found this which suggests that the gauges should have moved. May point to faulty instrument panel: Mini Cooper R50 R53 instrument cluster test on table - YouTube
I think I have found my issue(s) and this forum has been amazing so I wanted to share.
I had an Elec Tech friend round last night and we found 3 separate issues:

1) the sender on my original fuel filter housing had a slight break in a wire. Tested ok on continuity until you moved the wires.

2) On the 2 wires (brown/white) that go to the footwell. One of them also gave inconsistent readings that we traced back to a slight break just as the wire leaves the back seat structure. Nothing you’d notice by eye.

3) the single wire (brown/white) that connects to the 2 (originally with a crimp) was very water damaged and difficult toto pear the sheathing off without cutting - even after re-termination the issue was still present. Traced the wire to the fusebox in front passenger side and cut it there. Again evidence of water damage.
Replaced the length of wire from 2>1 connection all the way to the fusebox cut and gauge works.

This was all done last night on a rough test setup, so back today to run it in properly and tidy it up.
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