MINI Cooper Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
2007 Mini Cooper s turbo
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone, this is my first time rebuilding a head AND owning a mini. I just bought a 2007 mini cooper s (turbo) (r56 n14) for cheap and have been trying to get it going but I have hit some walls I need advice on.


Wall #1 - bracket/cap/journal
I’m not 100% sure what they are called but I was taking the camshafts off and there are numbered brackets/caps/journals that hold the cams in place. On the exhaust side one of those brackets are broken/snapped in half. Where do I go from here? I am having a REALLY hard time finding replacement caps/brackets/journals just to replace that one (numbered with a 1 I believe). I also noticed that the first 3 or 4 brackets/caps/journals were hard to get off, I found some metal shavings around the hole after removal.

#1.b
I also noticed that the the groove/journal the cam sits in (exhaust side still) has signs of something crazy happening? It’s hard to explain it so I’ve included a picture. Basically one of the grooves/journals has a lip of thin metal. It’s like the area go so hot, it melted and started to follow the rotation of the camshaft. Ummm… ya… any advice there?

Tl;dr
One of the brackets holding the exhaust cam in place is busted. Now what? Also the bolts used in those brackets were hard to remove on 0, 1, 2, 3 (metal shavings around the bolt hole). Cause for concern? Also, one of the grooves/journals on the exhaust side got a little melty. (See picture)


Wall #2 - valve lifters
Hopefully this one is easier and more straight forward. I noticed that some of the valve lifters compress (by hand) and feel squishy, while others offer no movement when compressed (by hand). Stiff ones need to be replaced? Or squishy ones?

tl;dr
Valve lifters supposed to be squishy or stiff when compressed by hand? Replace the incorrect ones?


Wall #3 - Bent Valves
I hope this one is pretty straightforward as well. I aligned the cams with the alignment tool for these engines, and at least 4 are bent. Some others seem to have very slight play on them when I touch them. I was planning on replacing the 4 plus any others that felt loose. Is that a good course of action? Also do I need to replace springs, retainers, or those collets? Whether I replace 4 or all of them is it a good practice to use the grinding paste on all of the valves (new/used)?

Tl;dr
Obvious bent valves when cams aligned with tool. Replace the ones that are bent? Anything else?

281335


281336


281337


281338


281339
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,197 Posts
looks to me like the engine was cooked to the point the oil turns to boiling point and has next to no lubrication to it and has pulled the alloy on head journal,,, if were me would replace the engine with known good one if that were mine.
 

·
Registered
2007 Mini Cooper s turbo
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
looks to me like the engine was cooked to the point the oil turns to boiling point and has next to no lubrication to it and has pulled the alloy on head journal,,, if were me would replace the engine with known good one if that were mine.
Hey thanks for the response Mike. If money weren't an option I would agree with you. Can those journals be polished or something and assembly lube the crap out of this thing and see if she runs?
 

·
Registered
2008 R56 N14
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey everyone, this is my first time rebuilding a head AND owning a mini. I just bought a 2007 mini cooper s (turbo) (r56 n14) for cheap and have been trying to get it going but I have hit some walls I need advice on.



Wall #3 - Bent Valves
I hope this one is pretty straightforward as well. I aligned the cams with the alignment tool for these engines, and at least 4 are bent. Some others seem to have very slight play on them when I touch them. I was planning on replacing the 4 plus any others that felt loose. Is that a good course of action? Also do I need to replace springs, retainers, or those collets? Whether I replace 4 or all of them is it a good practice to use the grinding paste on all of the valves (new/used)?
Another delightful feature of the N14 is the valve seats are sintered metal. I had two loosen up enough to bend two valves and had the entire head rebuilt. Also check the cam sprockets. Not sure which version of VANOS the 2007 has, but it could well have damaged the intake sprocket which would cause issues with timing and keep creating 287D fault codes (I know this because my mechanic regretted not replacing those when he rebuilt the head).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,197 Posts
Another delightful feature of the N14 is the valve seats are sintered metal. I had two loosen up enough to bend two valves and had the entire head rebuilt. Also check the cam sprockets. Not sure which version of VANOS the 2007 has, but it could well have damaged the intake sprocket which would cause issues with timing and keep creating 287D fault codes (I know this because my mechanic regretted not replacing those when he rebuilt the head).
the vanos sprockets fail a lot, i've tried a few after market ones and got mixed results and not in a good way,, genuine only is only way forward with them,,, i buy them from Peugeot main dealers £58 each and same part bmw wanted £360 in a kit ,
 

·
Registered
2007 Mini Cooper s turbo
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Another delightful feature of the N14 is the valve seats are sintered metal. I had two loosen up enough to bend two valves and had the entire head rebuilt. Also check the cam sprockets. Not sure which version of VANOS the 2007 has, but it could well have damaged the intake sprocket which would cause issues with timing and keep creating 287D fault codes (I know this because my mechanic regretted not replacing those when he rebuilt the head).
Thank you for this insight. I wasn't even thinking about the VANOS sprocket. How do you tell if it's still good?
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top