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Hi all. Desperately looking for help with miniall4 2010 petrol issue. Half engine light coming on when cold. Mini in limp home mode. Mechanic looking at it but not convinced it straightforward replace hp fuel injector pump as suggested by mini dealership. Computer reads desired fuel pressure as only .6 when issue happens not the usual 9 when running normally. Only happens when cold but now happens every start. Any ideas or does anyone know a genuine mini expert whom my mechanic can talk to? After ready lots of peoples injector problems I am worried going to be paying out thousands to replace everything as process of elimination rather than firm diagnosis. Thanks
 

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need to start a process, first off temperature sensor and thermostat housing first off their is a recall on these worth checking with mini first off, lost count the amount of housing faults that have causes starting and running and intermittent faults, link below is for the new upgraded housing with the wiring cable it needs to change from 2 pin to 4 pin, dont be tempted to fit a cheaper one as they are rubbish, bmw/mini want £130 plus vat for one link below is a mini bmw saab parts specialist just mention if you do need to buy one i sent you off the forum as i'm trying to build up a rapport with them to maybe get the forum a discount at a later date, they also do good timing chain kits etc
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...653986?hash=item41d8e35f62:g:Q3UAAOSwgLlaXjxs
also knowing the cat and 02 sensors are happy and iff not why not most common on a 60k plus prince engine is stretched timing chain honestly check the chain tensioner distance before spending anything on it, that said the thermostat housing will one day let you down they all do,
another common thing is pcv valve in rocker cover or the pipework as a crack in it, a clue it when remove oil filler cap when engine idling if it dont make any difference to how its running then there is a leak, it should make engine idle jump around if all good, but still a smoke test worth doing, the other thing is diverter valve on turbo wears out 60-100k and when does it buts boost the ecu feels this and cuts fuel, as does the map/maff sensor these are one component held into the airbox just below the vvt motor on rear of head and is a proper **** to remove and replace,
live data runs are a must to see whether its misfires in one cylinder or all of them, if one then compression test it etc move coils and plugs around see if fault moves with it. i have lost count the amount of people who have replaced the high pressure pump to find later it was the chain its more likely to be the cain at fault and the sensors are reacting to this and trm fuel to the best it can,,
THE PRINCE ENGINE MUST HAVE 8K OIL CHANGES, MUST NEVER BE RUN ON LOW OIL UNDER MAX MARK 2-3MM ABOVE IS BETTER, this helps make them last ok on car with low oil have seen chains ruined and camshafts and head ruined under 24k, and car that have had oil light on last a few minutes before killed off
 

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Following, as I think I have the same issue on my 2012 All4. Intermittent fault - engine fault light comes on, limp mode engaged, and engine idles in bursts between 800 & 1200 rpm for a couple of minutes before settling. Occasionally get an 'Increased emissions!' warning. I drive steadily, and sometimes the fault just clears itself. Other times I can start it four times during the day and it'll show a fault on three of them then run fine on the fourth. Two mechanics have found no fault codes; one suspects fuel pressure. Is this the same issue as the OP? If different I shall start new thread - thanks for reading.
 

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Following, as I think I have the same issue on my 2012 All4. Intermittent fault - engine fault light comes on, limp mode engaged, and engine idles in bursts between 800 & 1200 rpm for a couple of minutes before settling. Occasionally get an 'Increased emissions!' warning. I drive steadily, and sometimes the fault just clears itself. Other times I can start it four times during the day and it'll show a fault on three of them then run fine on the fourth. Two mechanics have found no fault codes; one suspects fuel pressure. Is this the same issue as the OP? If different I shall start new thread - thanks for reading.
how many miles has it got on it. if north of 60k would say all the above fits,
 

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Just over 64k, so that fits. Thanks for your help.
guy on here sent me pics and link today for 2012 n18 mini with 60.000 miles on it and says in the write up had new chain kit 5000 miles ago see even the as bmw say the improved n18 engine still kills its timing chain around the 50-60k mark,, and before even trying to diagnose it for faults the chain needs doing or checking but rule of thumb is 60.000 miles and to be honest most dont do 80.000 miles before destroying the engine from slipping on the sprockets no worse or better than a timing belt really treated like a timing belt they really are good power to weight engines so mappable honestly 300bhp is nearly doable, peugeot use the same engine is their standard RCZ 269bhp but a 230-250 bhp map in a light mini just sorts out the low down gunt and torque.
 

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guy on here sent me pics and link today for 2012 n18 mini with 60.000 miles on it and says in the write up had new chain kit 5000 miles ago see even the as bmw say the improved n18 engine still kills its timing chain around the 50-60k mark,, and before even trying to diagnose it for faults the chain needs doing or checking but rule of thumb is 60.000 miles and to be honest most dont do 80.000 miles before destroying the engine from slipping on the sprockets no worse or better than a timing belt really treated like a timing belt they really are good power to weight engines so mappable honestly 300bhp is nearly doable, peugeot use the same engine is their standard RCZ 269bhp but a 230-250 bhp map in a light mini just sorts out the low down gunt and torque.
Sorry, logged straight out so didn't see your reply. Thanks again. It's in the garage now but they want £1100 to do it - seems a bit steep.
 

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£1100 for doing the pump or the chain or to diagnoses it correctly in first place
 

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yep that's expensive, if you can get the car down to as per my signature they or me can sort that for less would need more details and also what level wanted, to work a price out etc, ie a full kit including vanos sprockets or what i would recommend as car only done 60k just new guides and chain and tension-er and must do bottom sprocket as it will deffo not make it another 60k without slipping and crank bolt and cam bolts and oil seal, is the min i would say on that car, FAI do a kit that works well and buy a genuine chain tension-er from bmw as its a revised one longer throw pic below for difference. if it dod need both vanos sprockets as the n18 as twin that would must price up by £60 tops compared to a n14 turbo engines, if cant get car to him he also has recovery truck can collect it etc, very sure will be cheaper than that but like said would need reg number etc to price it up on all levels, ie just in case open it up and find something else thats not well at the point a phone call and some pics would be shown to the customer and agree a path that works best, as so many cars tend to throw up surprise from time to time,,
have they checked the chain then ie throw on tensioner, or with diagnostics can read the vanos sprockets positions etc,
 

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it will deffo need bottom sprocket they all do please dont let them not fit one as will end badly ie timing will more around and idle will jump around as well
 

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Thanks so much for the offer but I'm miles away from you, plus the car's in the garage right now. I think I'll just have to suck it up and pay it. But I'll make sure about the bottom sprocket and everything else you advise. You've been brilliant. Thanks again.
 

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thats fine i've been repairing these engines for years and all suffer same wearing stuff and on anyone of them the timing must be right as a starting point when trying to fix them, seen so many people replace everything before the chain and chain fixes it,, i done a Peugeot 207gti the other day went to Peugeot main dealers for chain 15k before and was was running with timing jumping around they never replaced the bottom sprocket i could lock the cams and watch the chain move in the bottom sprocket, the theory is the bottom sprockets and machined in a way that the chain is two acute to it so wears more feathers the teeth a lot, also when fitting the chain its so important to match the pre-load to tensioner pressure otherwise it throws the timing out on them..
also after fixing the timing it takes a few cold to hot runs for the ecu to relearn the adaptations if they are main agents they should reset them with diagnostics when check the timing after the refit
 
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have a long the way seen many times where a car has a long term fault that restricts its revs and running etc ie masks underline fault somewhere a weakness somewhere, so while car is running under powdered etc its seems to be fine ,, but and its a big but after the car gets fixed and is now running at pressure its designed to these other weak points come to surface its just unfortunate and bad timings pardon the pun, as a tech who prides in to doing a good job when this happens it make you feel really bad for the owner of said car etc, but its just cars they really are so bad these days in my view all brands except honda stuff that i feel is still very good but not perfect but at least honda when they realise they have a problem do right thing and fix it and recall the cars. unlike all the German stuff and all the french stuff as well it would seem, which sort of makes be believe they see the life of their product the life span of the warranty maybe,
 

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After this, I'm going back to a Rav4 - had one for years, loved it. Thanks for your help and sympathy!
i have had couple of ravs good tool the newer ones with dpf can be naughty and eat clutches on the early ones as under powered
 
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