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your battery may be bellow 12.2v and on its way out, or you have a ground in the 5v circuit. Have you modified anything lately? Is you battery in good condition and fully charged?
 

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5 volt supply voltage is produced within the main ecu ie mev17.4 bassically has 14.7v in when engine running that gets reduced to 5v for signal control wires that link back to the very accurate 5v rail within the ecu, low voltage from battery can cause the fault code so can bad earth as these are switched within ecu,, the temp sensor runs 5v cps does also signal wires from 02 sensors as well,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks so much for the replys, the engines not starting, ive done a series of tests so far, I will look into the short tomorrow in the day light, also will be doing a compression test (my test kit doesn't have the right size thread adaptor)
The battery is good, Ive swapped it out for another just incase and have it jumped from the van as a precaution during attempting to start. was throwing up a cam shaft sensor error, I checked them and found one faulty so replaced that and no codes now showing.
eliminated the jbe issue possibility
I will get to the bottom of this!!
thanks again for any help
 

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Discussion Starter #7
5 volt supply voltage is produced within the main ecu ie mev17.4 bassically has 14.7v in when engine running that gets reduced to 5v for signal control wires that link back to the very accurate 5v rail within the ecu, low voltage from battery can cause the fault code so can bad earth as these are switched within ecu,, the temp sensor runs 5v cps does also signal wires from 02 sensors as well,
whats CPS?
 

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does engine crank if it does then chances are its a timing chain issue fairly likely. if wont crank then CAS unit common starter maybe, cps faults likely t chain maybe , need to scan it with proper diagnostics
 

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cam position sensor
 

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ie on top of rocker cover
 

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Discussion Starter #11
does engine crank if it does then chances are its a timing chain issue fairly likely. if wont crank then CAS unit common starter maybe, cps faults likely t chain maybe , need to scan it with proper diagnostics
Thanks Mike, yes it does crank, it very nearly starts, id say it does for a second then continues to try. the cps are fine 100%. Is there anything I can do to check the timing chain without a billion pound diagnostics? im confident changing it.
 

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below lock tool best way set the crank pin in place then see of top locks will just fall in to place with no gaps pics below one i done this week on a turbo car
notice the pic with brass rods in the spark plug holes on number 1 and number 2 they are both same length and when turn crank and both are at same level and the writing on both camshafts are facing upwards the lock pin hole should be very close underneath by the exhaust there is a hole for the pin in the kit lock crank first see what you have, that is best way,, compression test will show if chain as jumped,
 

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or can buy autocom cdp plus off ebay for around £50 that will show live data and vanos positions
 

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if buy a autocom buy the one that has pics in listing for double green circuit boards its full function read and write really is such a good tool to have works on any car can encode injectors and live data runs etc
 
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Discussion Starter #16
if buy a autocom buy the one that has pics in listing for double green circuit boards its full function read and write really is such a good tool to have works on any car can encode injectors and live data runs etc
thanks for your help mike. after checks today... your right timing chain had slipped, also an ignition coil was faulty, my question now is this... could a faulty ignition coil cause the chain to slip? my guess is it can. I've replaced the coil and ordered a new chain kit. however setting the pistons in centre and putting cams in right position has temporarily fixed it, now showing no codes and purring. im not going to drive it until ive done chain and tensioner and new rocker cover gasket. happy with todays progress!
 

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make sure you buy all new bolts for cam shafts and bottom sprocket also must replace the bottom sprocket and if around 100k the oil pump chain and sprocket a good call , genuine bmw parts re not that much money also there is a latest version of tensioner that can only be got from bmw £53 , unlikely timing chain effected the coil pack failing spark plug and big gaps can do,, i always with these engines chance the timing chain before much else as tends to be linked most of the time,, treat them like a timing belt ie 60.000 miles on a low reved engine and less on a abused one rule of thumb keeps them healthy,, i like them and don have any issues with the ones that are kept correctly to be honest , 8-10k oil changes and let warm up before driving hard and never let oil get below the full mark,, add to this i use seafaom additive on inlet to keep carbon build up down, to late when built up and gone hard unless i i do use a 4 inch long wire brush on a drill i made up i close the valves then spray seafoam in the inlet let soak then use drill and wire brush on it and clean them out,, as i'm to tight to pay the £80-£120 for wallnut blast
drill cable flexi so useful i also use this for grinding in valve seats on head so fast and cleans them up fast ideal for 16 valve heads lol, ie grip valve on its collet end and spin it been doing this for over 20 years and never had a issue with any engine etc
 

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Discussion Starter #18
make sure you buy all new bolts for cam shafts and bottom sprocket also must replace the bottom sprocket and if around 100k the oil pump chain and sprocket a good call , genuine bmw parts re not that much money also there is a latest version of tensioner that can only be got from bmw £53 , unlikely timing chain effected the coil pack failing spark plug and big gaps can do,, i always with these engines chance the timing chain before much else as tends to be linked most of the time,, treat them like a timing belt ie 60.000 miles on a low reved engine and less on a abused one rule of thumb keeps them healthy,, i like them and don have any issues with the ones that are kept correctly to be honest , 8-10k oil changes and let warm up before driving hard and never let oil get below the full mark,, add to this i use seafaom additive on inlet to keep carbon build up down, to late when built up and gone hard unless i i do use a 4 inch long wire brush on a drill i made up i close the valves then spray seafoam in the inlet let soak then use drill and wire brush on it and clean them out,, as i'm to tight to pay the £80-£120 for wallnut blast
drill cable flexi so useful i also use this for grinding in valve seats on head so fast and cleans them up fast ideal for 16 valve heads lol, ie grip valve on its collet end and spin it been doing this for over 20 years and never had a issue with any engine etc
cheers, your knowledge is such a great help and I appreciate all the help. I also have a mini one im going to completely rebuild with a big turbo etc so will probably spend countless hours on here!
With the regards to the ignition coil... I ment could the irratic running from a failed ignition coil cause the chain to slip? Either way Ive got to the bottom of it all, not bad considering I bought it as non runner 300 quid, late 2006 r56. with seized gear linkage where it was left sat, 10 mins sorted that!
 

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no the chain slips just because it slips ie by design that engine should be able to be rev'd as hard as the rev limiter would allow or throttle blipped as hard as want ie its same effect by doing this as it is when they have a misfire and idle drops low same loads on chain as such,, the cooper s i just rebuilt the past owner was told by his garage that turbo had failed and taken out the engine,, when reality was it started off with timing chain stretched retarded timing causing combustion chamber to run to hot that damaged the piston rings and this cause to much oil to past the piston rings and exhaust stem seals this blocked the cat and that ended in a piston breaking up and all the other 3 cylinders had under 120psi,, i had it running for a hour yesterday turbo was totally ok so far i must add, also now i have 200psi on all 4 cylinders that will drop in a months time of running to around 180psi i would guess as rings bed in etc..
this was worst outcome prettymuch only one level above that ie if bores got damaged or crank bearings but this one was and is perfect more luck than anything else,
 

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Discussion Starter #20
no the chain slips just because it slips ie by design that engine should be able to be rev'd as hard as the rev limiter would allow or throttle blipped as hard as want ie its same effect by doing this as it is when they have a misfire and idle drops low same loads on chain as such,, the cooper s i just rebuilt the past owner was told by his garage that turbo had failed and taken out the engine,, when reality was it started off with timing chain stretched retarded timing causing combustion chamber to run to hot that damaged the piston rings and this cause to much oil to past the piston rings and exhaust stem seals this blocked the cat and that ended in a piston breaking up and all the other 3 cylinders had under 120psi,, i had it running for a hour yesterday turbo was totally ok so far i must add, also now i have 200psi on all 4 cylinders that will drop in a months time of running to around 180psi i would guess as rings bed in etc..
this was worst outcome prettymuch only one level above that ie if bores got damaged or crank bearings but this one was and is perfect more luck than anything else,
I get ya, once had a gsxr bike in for a friend and the bottom end was full of petrol, just down to carb issue but forced its way passed rings, petrol and bearings not a good mix lol.
 
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