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mmmm, the autoleads front speaker pods arrived today, they said they take 16.5cm speaker, as does the label on the packet, but they only take 13cm speakers !!
I rang their tech dept, who got some out the warehouse then agreed with me!!
If they are still of any use to anyone, they are 26mm deep
 

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MINI2 Global Moderator
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mikeythemini said:
mmmm, the autoleads front speaker pods arrived today, they said they take 16.5cm speaker, as does the label on the packet, but they only take 13cm speakers !!
I rang their tech dept, who got some out the warehouse then agreed with me!!
If they are still of any use to anyone, they are 26mm deep
Any pictures of these??
 

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I now have some pic's in my gallery but this picture shows the Dynamat and the speaker mount...


I have also fitted the RF 500X in the tray in the bottom of the boot and fitted the sub. Will run it for a while now to see how hot it gets and to set the sound up.
 

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When I went to have my speakers swapped out this week I took this message printout along with me, and the installers (who had never seen the MINI before) said it was a lot of help! While the job was being done I took photo's, which might help future readers a little to understand what they are going to do.

Here's a link to them....

http://homepage.mac.com/normalizer/PhotoAlbum20.html



Possibly something for the FAQ



space_cadet said:
I have replaced the standard front speakers for infinity 5.25 jobbies. I don't see how you could get 6", as I shall explain.

First you have to remove the door panel and as usuanl you
will need a TORX socket set


1) use a small protected screwdriver to remove the
red reflector

2) Use your TORX driver and remove all the the screws.

The two at the front are much longer than the two
at the back.

3) remove the silver surround around the interior handle
/tweeter. This is quite hard to just pull of. I found that if you firmly yank the part of the door pull just below
it, it will start to come away.

Then you can reomve it quite easily by pulling at the surround itself


4) Now the whole panel just pulls of. This requires at LOT
of effort to get the clips to relinquish their grip. I found the best place to start is at the curved up front section where you can get your fingers behind.

5) With the panel off, you can unscrew the speaker and
disconnect the electrical conection.

The speaker itself is designed so it sits pround
of the door frame by about an inch. If you try and fit a similar (or larger) speaker flush to the frame then you have 2 problems, the first being that the speaker is now too far away from the grill (when fitted), and the other
that there is not enough clearance behind. Until somebody makes some proper adaptors, the only way is to canabalise
those standard speakers. I found that you can cut out the
speaker cone, and the magnet by cutting through the webs at the back of the spaker chassis. You are then left with
effectivly just the outer surround part of the speaker chassis. Its just the right size for mounting a 5.25" speaker with a little triming and adjustment and using some
self tappers screwed into holes drilled into the surround.

6) When reassemblting the door panel, rememeber to poke the
lock/unlock button through the hole before pushing all the
clips back in.
 

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Hey, normalizer

How did you get the grills off of the rear speaker mounting locations? I went prying at mine and ran into a screw that needed to be removed from the back of the quarter panel. How'd you do that? I'm talking about the picture you have with the "Rear 6x9 opened, with dynamat" caption in your album.

JB
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yeah, once peeled back, you could remove the screws and gain access that way. They're roughly the same size as the screws at the sides in the boot I think.

Dom
 
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