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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so after landing on the great idea of getting a 57 Mini One with a JCW for my soon to be 17 son - who has no idea that his getting it in a few weeks and - but getting carried away during the purchase phase and now have spent more money than I'm every likely to see again..... new timing chain and etc.. as there was no record of it being done. Recon gearbox and new clutch because it had a habit of gobbing out second gear....

The better half has been inspired enough to buy a 07 Cooper (non s) also with a JCW. It's got 108k and fortunately I can see that there is a record of a timing chain being done at about 75k... so I thought OK I'm not going to get burned a second time....

I'm partially OK on the first car as I've purposely got carried away with. But on the second... for reasons best known to car (and people with a lot more idea than me) it seems to have a persistent P0014 code.

There was a P2626 code which has now gone after changing - Upstream 02 sensor. Plugs, Coils packs, Oil, Air Filter, Replaced both Vanos solenoids - but still getting the P0014

I've pulled the vacuum and it seems to turn OK and I can feel it resisting and forming the vacuum when I do

In some optimistic hope of not getting burned a second time what am I missing? Any ideas or suggestions would be very gratefully received
馃檹
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Sorry a side thought in case it means anything to anyone - shortly before the engine light came on the low oil pressure flickered briefly, though I know that the oil is at the top mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks much appreciated JT I couldn't seem to find that exact one on Amazon but will do some digging later on.

Using the video you attached.

Without starting it up I found one error in the hidden menu under option 14.

ERRO1 931B h
200054507900

Is what came up which apparently is ambient temperature related.

Started it up and the obd said p0014 was pending.

Drove for 10 minutes. Obd says no faults. On board says 931b as above

Drove for another 10 minutes. Menu 14 still says 931b as above. OBD says P0014 pending. When turning off to go back into the menu 14 and turning back in again, this time the check engine light came on (but nothing more that's the p0014 pending and 5hr 931B). On starting the engine the check engine light went out

One more 10 minute drive and exactly the same as the last drive. P0014 pending and 931b etc in menu 14.

Drove home one last start up has got it to come up with a check engine light with the engine running and a current P0014 code. Though again nothing in menu 14 other than the 931B

Which is a long way round for buggered if I know....
 

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P0014 is the OBD-II generic code that the engine control module (ECM) has determined that the bank 1 exhaust camshaft is more advanced than what the ECM has commanded it be. This over-advanced condition could be during advancing or retarding of the camshaft timing
could be a number of things , vanos problem, oil solonod faulty, lack of oil pressure, timing chain problem, could be vac pump failing and dragging the exhaust camshaft, would first check oil pressure before throwing any parts at it, i've been repairing these engines for years that code can be all sorts needs a rule out process start with basic oil pressure controls the timing,, 30psi on idle is ok 70psi or more at 3000 revs when car is at 104c temps
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you Mike.

I'll order an oil pressure test kit - am I correct in thinking the thread size required is a M16
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks again Mike.

Your line of thought on this being an oil pressure issue that surfaces as the P0014 is an interesting one.

Whilst I'll waiting on parts to arrive, a longer drive sadly without the basic odb reader or use of the menu 14 revealed that..

After about 30 minutes of driving resulted in the low oil flickering in the slow down and idling in traffic which then in turn brought on the check engine light briefly. (This is what's been reported back)

Looking at some older threads there was something that you commented on regarding intake and exhaust sprockets and the oil control ring on the cam shafts which might be another avenue after pressure testing, oil solenoid and vacuum pump (which may not be a bad idea changing anyway as I'm guessing these are a time in service thing that aren't too expensive when compared to their potential downside when failing)

(The thread I was looking at was Low Oil Pressure when Idling. )
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
(For what's its worth the chain, sprockets, belt and friction wheel were changed in 2018 less than 20k ago at 89.7k along with a service using 5w30 and going by the part number a Mann filter. It's been serviced again in 2019 and 2020 and then last weekend by me plugs, coils, oil, filter, vanos x 2 and o2 sensor. Currently at 108.6k)
 

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yes have seen a few with the camshaft oil control rings gone and case vanos lack of movement or slow movement,, the cps sensors pick up a difference is timing ie ecu wants to see so many degrees at set demands and oil prevents this on the vanos,,
with yours fact you have old light flickering would suspect needs looking at on a oil pump level.. or first off would check the coolant temps when oil light comes on,, pre 2010 cars had 112c temp thermostat housings fitted and ran the oil to hot,, when you think the 5/30w oil the 5 number is based at 100c for oil viscosity,,, 12 degrees lower than what the older housings ran at,, the latest spec housings are 105c and is a must fit item ,,, you need to live data your coolant sensor and see what temps car runs at ir should stay at 104c to 106c tops,, aso oil level makes a difference these engines must be kept on full mark all the time,, as oil also cools the engine as well as lubricates and runs things like vanos and lifters etc,
might be worth putting axle stand at front pulley and lever against the bottom pulley id can feel any knock then mains will be damaged and prob the cause,, also lack of oil pressure to vac pump on side of head can drag the exhaust camshaft and cause top guide to bend and snap and timing chain to jump teeth can also induce rattle from tensioner,, would be worth pulling it off and rotate it should turn easy and squirt oil out as its oil fed
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks again Mike, it certainly seems that something in the oil pump area might be the cause. I'll test the thermostat hopefully tomorrow at some point

When you say axel stand at front pulley and lever against the bottom. Am I correct in thinking the stand is going under #2 and I'm levering #1 to see if there is movement there. And when you say mains - do you mean the main b拢拢rings 馃あ

Very much hoping that the cause is oil solenoid or pump related. If it is bearings and the engine is a basket case an alternate strategy to throwing more good money at this may be needed. Though that said I'm not detecting anything feel wise (basing this on the experience of a long time a go a mechanic handing over a car to me with ZERO oil in it....)
 

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Thanks again Mike, it certainly seems that something in the oil pump area might be the cause. I'll test the thermostat hopefully tomorrow at some point

When you say axel stand at front pulley and lever against the bottom. Am I correct in thinking the stand is going under #2 and I'm levering #1 to see if there is movement there. And when you say mains - do you mean the main b拢拢rings 馃あ

Very much hoping that the cause is oil solenoid or pump related. If it is bearings and the engine is a basket case an alternate strategy to throwing more good money at this may be needed. Though that said I'm not detecting anything feel wise (basing this on the experience of a long time a go a mechanic handing over a car to me with ZERO oil in it....)
When you say axel stand at front pulley and lever against the bottom. Am I correct in thinking the stand is going under #2 and I'm levering #1 to see if there is movement there. yes very much so the way to easy tell if have any movement in mains,,
The commonly accepted rule that most crankshaft manufacturers prefer for street and performance engines is 0.0010-inch for every 1-inch of journal diameter. So for a 2.45-inch small-block main journal, the bearing clearance would be 0.0024-inch
lost count the amount of broken mini engines due to owners buying them thinking they will go between services before checking or adding oil,, in fact i got a cooper s in at mo lady ran car until oil light came on a few times ,, ie she thought that the red oil can light was warning to add oil,,, ho is not going to be a cheap day this one as bearings are fry'd ,,
i rebuilt a audi 3.2 v6 engine last year i told the customer at leat ten times check the oil every time use the car fro first week then get a idea to oil use as thise engines like mini engines use 1 litre to 1000 miles tops when they are new,, 1000 miles later he sends me a video of engine clicking and tapping etc and said cant drive it as dont feel right, i went to collect the car,,, to find it need 2 litres of oil to get to bottom of stick,,, he also told me it goes very well and has been reving the nuts out of it,, ie not run in not had first oil change etc,,, i done its first oil changed checked the filter no metal in it refilled new oil he got away with it engine is silent now,,, trouble with secondhand cars is who owned them before and the first owners tend to rag them the hardest as have a 3 year warranty to fall back on,,, then these cars get sold again and again so never really know what your have,, so many people believe a 100k car should be as good as a new one ie fit for purpose ,,, all i see is after 3 to5 years all cars are holding on
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks again Mike. Some people are just nuts. That Audi did well to last that long.

This one seems to have had its oil kept up but you can never know. So with levering it at 0.0024 of an inch it should pretty much not move at all.

Lets see what tomorrow brings 馃
 

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Thanks again Mike. Some people are just nuts. That Audi did well to last that long.

This one seems to have had its oil kept up but you can never know. So with levering it at 0.0024 of an inch it should pretty much not move at all.

Lets see what tomorrow brings 馃
yep prettymuch if can feel any glunk then its worn,, i have a mini cooper s in to day guy had taken it to another garage they condemned the rocker cover oil leak it also had oil light on dash,,, hmmm i spent 5 minutes on it found the oil leak was the oil pressure switch had broken where the metal and plastic meets on side of cylinder head and tell tail sign was the oil in the plug connector ,,, they told him engine prob broken not worth fixing,, i drove it 5 miles gave it a good hard run to be sure live data ran the car all was fine with it, trouble is some garages are just employing non qualified parts changers,, i get nearly all my jobs from word of mouth and so many who say have had issues with misdiagnosing their cars,,, i bought a crv today where garage said engine needs replacing oil light on,, found the ecu was at fault and that was throwing oil light and would cut engine out after 2 minutes,, put oil pressure gauge on it got pressure,, put scope probe on oil pressure sensor feed and have a open circuit ,, done a wiring test found ecu is at blame ,
 

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My 03 S and wife's 2011 Countryman S needed 5 key starts to clear codes after scanning and resetting. I drive out of town and stop, turn off, turn on 5 times before codes clear and light goes off. Don't remember where I read it, probably manual, and has worked ever since.
 

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My 03 S and wife's 2011 Countryman S needed 5 key starts to clear codes after scanning and resetting. I drive out of town and stop, turn off, turn on 5 times before codes clear and light goes off. Don't remember where I read it, probably manual, and has worked ever since.
on faut codes that are only pending yes some do reset the light after a few starts, but any that are emissions based wont, and all codes even if light not one will still be stored and present is ecu ,, just because light is not on dont mean there is no problem with it, and could cost a lot if fault code warning is not inspected and fixed ie could lean a cylinder out and melt a hole in a piston ,,, i work at rolling garage and see cars all the time with no light on but have running issues and hurt them selves through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks Mr CC and Mike...

Having spent some time with the car today I think the problems run deeper...

Got the engine warmed up and then took of for a drive. Temperature not higher than104c to 106c.

Then got my self into stop start traffic and the issue that presents is
P0012 pending over retarded and P0014 pending over advanced.

Idling at traffic lights oil light comes on and then goes out with gentle revs. This is at each set of lights or when idling.

Get home. Let it idle. This time without applying additional revs. I hear the chain rattle. Not being a sound I want to hear, I gently apply revs with my big toe. And observe the temperature rise to 108c at which point the fan kicks in.

Engine off, car parked and currently contemplating...

Is this a bad oil pump and or oil valve solenoid causing the low oil pressure. Which in turn is causing the vanos to be briefly starved off oil at idle so resulting in a pending over retarded and over advanced state.

Or is it that the timing chain kit that was installed sub 20k miles ago is shot.

Or a combination of both.....
 

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when car is hot at 106c on idle what is the idle speed,, if timing is out retarded it will reduce the idle speed and if its to low the oil pump will struggle to give the mini 20psi pressure a new engine would have
as for timing chain kit depends on what kit was use ie if genuine febi one then they tend to do the 60k but their are cheapy china ones around that are crap and do last 20k
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
At idle and temp 105/106 the idle was steady at about 800/900 rpm and I didn't see it change.

20k f me... That's insanely crap
 
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