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At idle and temp 105/106 the idle was steady at about 800/900 rpm and I didn't see it change.

20k f me... That's insanely crap
its reving at right amount for idle,,
worth putting anew oil pressure switch on it have seen many go faulty done one yesterday on a cooper s 2008 80k on it was leaking oil when pulled plug off it was full of engine oil from leaking worth sticking anew one on only £6.40,, after that needs a oil pressure gauge if oil pressure low will effect the vanos sprockets and timing as well,, there is a non return valve in cylinder block on them some times these fail and cause oil pressure issues to head ,,, its a head off job to replace it,, dear old bmw stupid designs lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well not sure if that helped hard to say but a long stop start drive of an hour, lots of traffic lights followed by a motorway run, followed by country roads and then leaving it to idle (attended of course) for seven or eight minutes achieved
  • No CEL and no oil low pressure light
  • Maximum temperature seen was 108c idle when stopped was also fine
  • When left to idle when hot the fan came on at 106c and brought it back in to the 90s
  • My fault code reader showed P0014 pending but that was it
An actual grown up fault code reader was put on it and it shows:
  • 2771 Combustion misfires cylinder 1
  • 273E Ignition Coil cylinder 3
  • 2FAC Engine switch off time plausibility
  • 283D Vanos exhaust adaptation stop
The 273E is odd as I did put new coils on when I changed the plugs, and I suppose the 283D is consistent with P0014 that started this adventure in the first place
 

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the 283d code would be main target, you need to go back to grown ups scan tool that can do live data and live data the vanos sprocket positions ,, ie this can be done best with someone driving it while watch the prescribed and actual vanos positions,, they should be the same with in a degree or two if not then faulty vanos or oil control solonoid or low oil pressure can cause this
link below is a proper grown up scan tool for under £50 cant beat it,, dont get side tracked by someone on here who has no idea about what is needed and will prob chip in with buy a foxwell,, yes a foxwell £1000 scan professional would do what this tool below will,, this scan tool is AUTOCOM CDP PLUS link below for cheapest way to buy it,
below link is twin circuit board type so will code and write ecu's as well on any thing on the road prettymuch garage level
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Fault found..... Or more accurately the bits of the guide rails in the sump were....
 

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Fault found..... Or more accurately the bits of the guide rails in the sump were....
many go that way timing chain top guide breaks a lot on them . its that thing i tell everyone better to treat the timing chains as a 60,000 miles service job rather than waiting for it to destroy its self,, at least found it can sort now,
 

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your oil pressure warning light may be from chuncks of the oil chain guide blocking the oil pick up, on a timing chain replacement supposed to drop oil pan and clean it up also clean the oil pick up screen then the timing code can be from somebody not using the tool to lock flywheel and cams you can get one for around 50 bucks wich you can use to check timing but I would check the oil pick up since low pressure will also give you the code another things like sealing rings on exhaust camshaft, bad actuator , bad solenoid, timing adaptions and relearn not done after timing job or dem needing a reprogramming at the dealership are things to look for
 
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