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3 months hmmm yep have dealt with the aftermath many times very much the same chain of events, remember one guy he had a 12 months old audi v6 petrol tfsi engine done the same thing thought as a new car under 10k on it , trouble is this new low friction tech engines all use oil by design, expensive mistake for him aud would not honour the warranty as he run it low on oil and they could tell from past live data and faults codes stored ie a level of code storage dealer only can read, prince engines dont do well with oil light on for any amount of time damage will be done for sure how long the total end is away only time will tell
 

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good luck hope it dont turn to bad
 

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After adding 1.5 litres I drove the car for a few miles. Went pretty easy for first mile or so. Engine sounded ‘normal’ so I upped the pace a little and went round a roundabout fairly quickly and no warning message which would have definitely come on previously. So far so good but obviously I accept I may have damaged the engine and it might not come to light until some time later.
i check all i ever move or buy every time i move them until know what i have got ie all cars have different use or oil seems most makers are designing engines that burn oil my theory to this is to fool emission figures, ie all cars with filters in exhausts and pcv and egr systems all cause the oil to collect carbons this mostly ends up in the engine oil and does, trouble with a car that has a 24 month or 20.000 miles service interval is it impossible to get that amount of carbon in to the oil, so answer could be force people to add oil and use some of oil via pcv system to be burnt off etc, its funny on cars that have the pcv removed and egr and also run slightly thicker oil dont use as much oil,,, but 10k oil change sis by far best way to treat any car, also see the full mark as being the target and not a vague between the marks as many do, min mark is to low causes damage over time, you can buy 20 litre drums of good engine oil from euro parts £45 that 4 oil changes, time will tell
 

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it needs ecu scanned with a good scanner ie cheap hand held things dont have the power to do a full job hence why some people come on here and say they scanned their car and no faults, when reality is are faults stored that cannot be seen without a good scan, best value for money is autocom cdp plus or wow wurth snooper i have both and both have good bits that add up to a fairly complete system as such, this all said while any codes are present start stop will not be available , flat battery or weak battery will cause same problems, allowing any battery to go totally flat at any point of its life is a bad thing to do, battery needs to be charged all the time or at worst above 11.2 volts. also if battery has been left flat first thing would be to code cars ecu to recognise it again
 
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