MINI Cooper Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok... this is my first "Modern Mini" (Cooper D 2007)
Brought cheap so expected lots of issues.. yes a list of fault as long as yuour arm...
but a Hi spec'd car that was dealer maintained till 2015..

I would say it has been neglected rather than abused...
Relativly oil tight, clean inside a few paintwork scratches (and a small dent) nothing major (hmm was told DPF been mapped out - that makes my mind think who/why)
but working my way through problems...
I am finding things that is making me ask....
"Are the problems I am encountering because of bad owners or bad garages..."
Sure I have a good set of tools and mates who can add to that almost anything needed...

1st issue to look at the ERG valve.... Error so decided to give it a clean first....
found a torq drive had been sheared off in the head of one of the cap screws...
Was that why it had not been cleaned and the associated error?
Not a big job.. cut of the head with a dremel....
but the remaining stud was very tight... once out, looking closely we were of the opinion at some point it had been cross threaded...
Solution nothing major just run a blind tap down all the holes....

Next... the sun roof (another thread on this)
Panoramic fails to open.. motor whirrs a bit in each direction....
I will get round to sorting this... (awaiting stuff to feed the seals)
and at the moment can't see me waiting to open it till summer...
but reading on here and else where... basic maintenance should be done regarding the seals.... (probably not been done)

Today looking at the Eylos fluid ... Following the great guide on here...
started..... lower the OS under tray at the rear....
Ohh great plastic nuts.....

Working round...
Last one.....
Hang on the socket does not seem to fit (working by feel only)
the Nut does not exist just a round peice of plastic, totally rounded a fraction of the size of a nut!!!
(will priobably remove using a hot knife or such...)
Could that be the reason the Eylos bag has not been sorted???

Not directing anything at people on here...
I have read some great threads and clearly there are peoiple who know their apples from potatoes and give some great advice....
and a lot of people really passionate about their cars.....
In my other life of classic cars the bodges that were found were beyond belief - New sills pop riveted over old ones....
complete structural panels tacked every 6", Even Concrete in a recess with masking tape used on the outside to stop it coming out when wet, finally given a liberal dose of underseal.....
Wire twisted round fuel lines insead of fuel clips

Clearly this car was someones pride and joy when new.... and it was looked after,
At6 the end pof their ownership, unless they did not care and let it go really cheap, did a new owner simply bodge or not have the knowledge skills or tools to do any of the work properly, or heaven forbit a garge did some of the work and left these things....

Looking underneath it looks to have had new rear springs and callipers at some point recently...

Has anyone else found things that they woulld consider shocking? (or am I being too picky?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,932 Posts
i've had a few cooper d 2008 to 2009 years all were around 70-80k all ended up having dpf delete and egr delete cleans up the oil big time and they run a lot better, also had mapped went from the 112bhp to just under 150bhp with a load of mid range torque, all of mine had new turbo sump down cleaned out gauze removed from oil feed pipe to turbo and new link chain for camshafts and timing belt and waterpump kit when bought them,, as for the additive if dpf is gone then dont need to fill the bag with anything more than diesel and reset counter ,, its a counter so ever time you open fuel filler it gives a dose for a full tank of diesel,, ie if still there should run diesel to light and refill to top to save expense on additive,
i see some right bodges recently on one garage left a bolt out of thermostat housing and one was tight other was loose, got one in at mo garage charged a guy a lot of money to fix a timing issue and never bothered checking oil pressure before they fitted a timing chain kit from china and reused the bolts and never even bothered do oil pump change,, another guy took his car to a mini specialist up north they removed £2400 from his wallet for valve stem seals and never even cleaned the valves used the cheapest gasket and chain kit they could find,, and never dealt with the main issues rings were cooked from a bad remap and decat with pops and bangs ,, i found they had not mapped out the down stream 02 sensors when done the decat and had set down stream for pops and bangs as such while pulling timing at a point ,, so it just makes the piston rings brittle,, not just mini see it with all kinds
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have read a lot of your thread Mike.... and it is clear you know what you are doing and have seen a lot...
At the moment I am just looking to get it back to a nice useable position where it performs and looks nice....
I tend to keep cars for a long time (300k+ on many of my old cars)
And reading your threads on engine advice I have learnt a lot about these newer generation PSA units...
I have always been cautious of removing the gause from the oil feed and cleaned it when changing the oil... having a second car is an advantage when taking time and patience to do things right....
I know at some point it may (will) need a thorough going over of the engine, for now when I have had it running for a short while to see if anything else pops up before I do belts water pump and sump (but have also noted your advice to do the cam chains)...
(I was interested that you said replace the injector seals at 70k.. I will add that to my list of "good things to do" is there any point in simply removing the Glow plugs just for the sake of ensuring they are not stuck or it that just inviting trouble...?)
But I am wondering if I should buy a spare engine and just rebuild that for the final day... so it can just be swapped over...

I was just going to add some injector cleaner to the Fluid bag....
Found my Autocom had been returned to sender at their customs center.... DOH.... need to order another...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,932 Posts
that gauze in the bottom banjo bolt is really a must remove job honestly they take the turbo out at some point,, what causes it mainly is injectors come loose psa have a service report that told main dealers at 20k services they must check and retorque the allen nuts that hold them in as they come loose and when do it causes a hard carbon from this pushing the rubber seals around the tubes the injectors sit in and add solid lumps of carbon to oil that will not pass through that gauze,, every mini cooper d i bought had a engine failure from diesel overun being why they were spares repairs in first place.. i ended up rebuilding them ie low miles bottom end and new turbo etc,, also if decat and dpf off them and egr they do better over bigger miles ,, and if have dpf deleted no point doing glow plugs as if glow plugs are faulty on a car with dpf it causes issues on regens,, what if deleted its fine to not have them working and they always start ,, only time might struggle is -10 but even then they will start just takes longer ,,, 8k oil changes a good thing with them, yes those engine rebuild well done a few of them and always run well after
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Well here we seem to go again.....
Spent the morning getting theEolys box/bag out to add a new refillable bag of injector cleaner (since teh DPF has been mapped out)
You know when you get that feeling "Someone has been here before....."

.Following the guide on here....
Lets start with the Undertray..
discovered one of the plastic nuts holding the undertray had been rounded off (definately someone has been here before)
hot knife slitting it and off it popped...
lowered down the undertray...
First thing to notice is some wires in a loop cable tied to the Undertray seem to be connected to some cylindrical thing clipped to the rear inner sill or such... I will get to them later.... but any thoughts welcome (there are two of these cylindrical things one I believe is connected to the Eolys tank)...
then there was a new bolt through the Eolys box.. the nut at the top came undone easily (looks like stainless - Someone has been here before)
However it passed through the old captive nut and that was spinning so it could not be removed.. so hacksawed through...

At this point is anyone thinking what I am thinking? 120k on the clock............ Has someone....
Get the box out and the thouight" this does not feel like an empty plastic box"....
Open it up and low an behold a bag with Eolys fluid in....
Weight it and it is between 800-900g... now water weighs 1g-1ml so 1000ml of water would weigh 1000g
allowing a bit for the bag and a difference in weight of the Eolys fluid I reckon the bag is about 1/2 full...
So someone has been here before!!!!
Eolys Fluid error - indicating the bag is empty and needs to be replaced and reset...

So has someone changed the Fluid bag, not had an Autocom or such to reset the counter and thus not bothered....
So with a 1/2 full bag... do I swap it out for the New Water bag and refill with Injector cleaner or top the existing one up with Injector cleaner??

I am now wondering about the ABS fault....
What will I find next!!!
(I suspect that the wheels do not have teh pressure sensors in either now....
Seems after 2015 it was a case of Bad DIY or DIOTC - Do It On The Cheap)

New Autocom Plus ordered the old one was returned to sender via their customs/sorting dept...

Ohh and if anyone knows where you can get teh connector (only) that pushes into the Origial DPF bag to permit refillig that would be great... can't see why the need to pay £10+ for a bit of pipe a connector and a bottle cap
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top