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good idea that will work i do it with a press and preset the travel on the press in same way , another good idea but my wife goes nuts is when installing new ones put head in oven 200c for couple of hours and put the guides in the freezer over night should just drop in to place like that
Ha ha yes!, I've been reading the oven and freezer method and intend to do it when fitting, now that the Christmas is over she wouldn't mind I think , the plus this is going to be her car so she'll be ok.
i.m banned from the house now any car parts think the engine parts in dishwasher was final nail in that short cut lol,,, no i use parts washer and one her long bristle brushes with handle cut off so can ram the wire end in to drill chuck to rotate it when cleaning things and use mix of petrol and diesel then the final cleans with brake cleaner before adding gaskets or sealants so grease free,, i also just before putting rocker cover on put the engine oil in the engine by pouring it all over camshafts and chain etc ,, then crank engine over a good 5 times without plugs in get oil around all the new parts never had a bad outcome like this,,
 

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Then I used that blue paint stuff on the exhaust and gasket & port matched that to my regular cooper s exhaust manifold not my JCW exhaust manifold. Then ported and polished the exhaust port myself. Making sure not to do the intakes on that head. I has the dimples to in the intake ports I think. Which means that it could suffer from condensation easily. As I will not be TRACKING the car.
i've been porting heads for years two ways to view it some tuners says leave ridges as helps to tumble the flow and aids mixture so say polished is best,, trouble with prince engines or any euro 4 and 5 or 6 engines is carbon build up from back pressures from emissions and egr valve and overlap on valves etc ie within 20k the engine tends to be as dirty as before and anything small gains found by it get reduced by the crud, also the exhaust and inlet are designed for emissions and not power so also for best result need looking at and also the turbo has a given max point then its hybrid turbo time then takes it to the max of injector's and fuel system ,, at this point on n14 engines its bends conrods and breaks pistons,, around the 250bhp its in the window of a big break up,, i know this as have seen many people try and poke over this on a non forged motor,, then forging is next the crankshafts are very strong a bonus but only a fool would not have crank regrind and do a full rebuild including rebore etc then its the cost DIY £4000 can easy be spent all this done 300bhp maybe with some rolling road time,, and all that reliability just gets less,,
 
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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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250hp I believe it......that it would probably start letting loose. The cylinder bores wet jackets... Over here in the U.S. they did that idea to the Cadillac Northstar engines back in the early 90's.
When I was living in Carson,NV (1995) this guy needed to get rid of his from his back yard. I could not afford it at the time. O course me and him would go out gambling at night. Golden nugget Casino. I hit the 1 dollar slots. He'd hit the 5 dollar slots.
Wet jacket engine.
Yes it can be done for much cheaper
but whats cheaper is forged parts then some Mini genuine parts. LIke the camshafts two cam for 899 U.S. verses the latter for a real mini Cooper cam.
What's Funny is each person producing the camshafts whether they be custom grinds or not. Heck you probably have a custom grind done at Bullitcams.com
They all admit and believe one fundamental. That the stock mini cooper camshafts are as aggressive as they get. It's funny. Some even said that Like Tim Shrick.
Too aggressive can be bad in a way. Believe Tim Shrick's the man in sense with the R56.
But the camshaft profiles to everything else is maxed out.
Now it's not a disposable engine in my opinion. Over the years there have been disposable engines this is not one of them. It's just a engine where about 210 is the record breaking point. after that look into carbon fiber panels. If you gonna race track the car. then That setup 4000 euro setup is the best either way your spending 4000 euro and one is not for reliability and one for power. One is for having the car run proper. Stuff like on a cold winter day I turned on the heater and before I got to the end of the half block after having the car in the cold all night.
It started putting out heat. actual heat from the heater in less then 2 blocks. That's how I remember the car being when it was new. Stuff like that you have to pay for.
Mini Cooper got together with Rolls Royce and made a Mini about that!
I don't believe anyone has found the best way to CUSTOM BUILD A MINI and for a affordable price much less.
 

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the cam profile is changed by vanos and vvt as well on later engines camshafts are strong its just the rods and pistons that are not also n14 and n18 engines run 104c to 112c this heat causes lean out if not careful lean out melts then as combustions processes go through the roof, prince engine is highly strong and on edge of what is possible in standard form but keeps busy
 

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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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the cam profile is changed by vanos and vvt as well on later engines camshafts are strong its just the rods and pistons that are not also n14 and n18 engines run 104c to 112c this heat causes lean out if not careful lean out melts then as combustions processes go through the roof, prince engine is highly strong and on edge of what is possible in standard form but keeps busy
So this brings me to a question Why did they not outfit the Jointly developed BMW/PSA Peugeot Citroen N14 engine with composite camshafts? Where as the other three do have them. N12,N16,N18.
 

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So this brings me to a question Why did they not outfit the Jointly developed BMW/PSA Peugeot Citroen N14 engine with composite camshafts? Where as the other three do have them. N12,N16,N18.
more to do with the other engines have vvt and extra lobes on inlet camshafts, where n14 has none of this just a single vanos sprocket. prob a cost thing where psa never made a lot of 207 gti and 308gti in first years later n18 engines were a redesign amd ,more based on the n16 layout of head and vvt etc,
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yeah , above values seem to be super tight , I'm going to order couple of reamers tonight , might be even possible with just one where it falls within ranges for both inlets and exhausts.
 

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oven and fridge mate make a depth tool up with some tape and screw driver and should just tap in
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yeah 150c for an hour or two yeah? and guides in freezer overnight.

I cut a spare valve and drilled a hole and made a tool to pull guides in , haven't tried yet.

279700


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I pulled the old block out today, due to awkward steps I couldn't use a regular hoist, so I built a gantry with some wood I had

I couldn't use a trolley jack either due to damn AC system . I couldn't disconnect the systems since I don't have a machine. was able to lower the AC pump and condenser so it gave me space to lift the engine a bit and pull it out.


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279698


I made a rolling thing to go on top beam so then it makes it easy to slide the engine out, luckily I had some small bearings I bought some time back for another project.

279699
 

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love it man in a garden and shed full off tools ho what could he do lol,, man of my own heart cant help myself when look at a job that needs a special tool and find a way to make one lol for pea nuts, i spent a number of years not having a indoors area for my projects its bloody hard in winter ,,, these days i got a nice unit fits one car and work bench just enough room to do most things,, failing that got 4 ramps at work but try and avoid owing boss to many favours lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Wooden gantry thing worked out really well in the end than I thought it would ,I was debating to whether to build a platform up and use a regular engine crane or do this , no drama in the end.

Obviously getting the engine in will be bit tricky without sideways movement, but with thing and help of a trolley jack I can make something work
 

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done well to leave gearbox in ,, think i would of pulled both out and rebuilt the whole lot before reinstalling it saves all those hard to get at bolts from past dealings with them,, sometimes just easy to have it all out and walk around it etc, dont get me wrong not poking at your work in anyway everyone does things different even in garage trade theres a number of ways to do same job nothing is wrong ,,
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I invested in one of these little 24L compressors for £135, I need air in my shed and I have a air hammer from the past so hoping to use that when driving in guides this weekend. That will make things a it easy.

it arrived today and It's a nice little kit, perfect size for my use.


 

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I invested in one of these little 24L compressors for £135, I need air in my shed and I have a air hammer from the past so hoping to use that when driving in guides this weekend. That will make things a it easy.

it arrived today and It's a nice little kit, perfect size for my use.


i got a small compressor as well and run on generator i also have 12volt led lights i made up ie from allyexpress each strip was .99p i 10 of those on a square meter mount and a 740amp car battery lasts me 3 days and good light as per battery, ie run 4 of them,, i also modded out the compressor and have 4 old car tyre inflation pumps that run on 12volts and gives good air fast as generator and compressor running for to long to loud lol,, also have 12volt to 240v invertor i can run drills off or charge my dewalt batteries and run my laptops for diagnostics hmm got 5 of them at mo,, drives my wife nuts the amount money i spend on cars tools
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Ha I'm lucky I was able to get power to my shed, but I was looking at solar power options before doing that but in the found a way to get power to shed without too much cost.

This one is low noise but I'm not sure about running at nights , neighbours might complain so I will have to plan ahead and fill up a tank if I'm going to need air in the night.

With this I can now use all my air tools from the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Today I finished installing guides, I pulled them out with my home made tool but used an air hammer to push them in , left guides in freezer few days ago and had to heat up the head with hot air as it turned out the oven wasn't big enough.

All guides went in without any issues and I quickly checked for valve seats , it doesn't look like seats needs cutting at all, hopefully bit of lapping all it needs, if it does need cutting I was going to try pieces of 150 grit superglued on valves and use that as the cutter, pretty low tech but I can see it working.

After installing guides few guides are bit tight , so I tried with rolled up 2000 grit used as a reamer, again pretty low tech.

Was able to free up some but in the end I ordered a reamer and will try reaming out when it gets to me.
 

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sounds like a good effort, for £200 I'd have just sent it in😂
 
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