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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi there,
I'm doing some fault finding on a 2009 R56 Cooper S and am looking for some confirmation and guidance.

I just replaced the timing chain on the car. All went well, car fired up, idled fine, road tested and ran fine. I've done that job probably 6 or 7 times before, so am quite adept at it. After completing the work I hooked up my £89 Autel unit just to read and clear down any codes that popped up due to battery and front bumper lights being disconnected. Prior to doing that the car was running fine. After clearing down a couple of codes that remained then starting the car, the check engine light came on and the car had a very uneven idle and wouldn't rev past 1800 rpm. I rescanned with my autel unit and it had registered codes for manifold pressure plausibility, boost pressure sensor plausibility, accelerator pedal travel sensor signal, throttle valve potentiometer 1 and 2.
I did some research on these codes but there was very little information that tied all of these together.

So, I decided I needed to get ISTA, to do more thorough diagnosis. I have the Bimmerfest ISTA + D and a K+ DCAN cable. I've scanned it and I have 9 codes, which are:

00289D DME: Boost pressure sensor, electric.

00289E DME: Boost pressure sensor, electric.

002B02 DME: Throttle valve potentiometer 1

002B06 DME: Throttle valve potentiometer 2

002B0B DME: Throttle valve potentiometer

002B22 DME: Throttle valve actuator, closing spring test

002B6D DME: Intake manifold pressure sensor, electric

002B72 DME: Intake manifold pressure sensor, plausibility

002EF2 DME: Intake air temperature sensor, signal.

I've checked all the connections to the sensors, and throttle body and all seem fine and are connected. Now what I think has happened is that when clearing down the codes with my generic autel unit, I've corrupted the ECU. As car was running fine and not showing these codes right before before I used the autel unit and none of these items were interfered with when doing the timing chain.

Would a corrupt ECU be a reasonable assessment? And using ISTA+ D, can I check the ECU and confirm this? Or is it a case of reflashing/repairing the ECU and seeing if that does the trick?

I do actually have another Cooper S, the exact same model and year, but with several different options. Though, I'm pretty sure I couldn't just swap out the ECU and expect it to work

I'm not particularly au fait with ISTA, but I do have experience using VAG-COM for diagnostic and adaptation purposes, so I'm not a complete noob.
I know that if I take it to a garage, they'll want an arm and a leg to conduct what I've already established and then possibly tell me I need a new ECU.

So, I guess what I'm trying to establish is:
Does my diagnosis of a corrupt ECU sound plausible?
Are there any more tests I can do with ISTA to establish this?
If the ECU is indeed corrupted, can I reprogram it myself with ISTA and a K+ DCAN cable (I think I may need ISTA P)?

If anyone has any suggestions, please post and let me know your thoughts, it will be most appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Adam
 

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is the earth strap on engine mount tight, also the small black wire earth that locates to front of rocker cover is that making earth and not a broken cable
might be worth swapping the maf sensor over from other car see what you get back,
as for ecu's your right cant just plug the other one coded, no insta wont do ecu deep function tests , BBA REMEN best bet for ecu testing and repairing, its poss a cheap diagnostics tool might have effected the canbus so very rarely , more likely when connected battery ie battery went flat over time then car gets jump started most likely at this point can cause ecu damage,, the AA and RAC tell their road side techs always turn headlights on the car you are jump starting as this redirects any power surges, even when putting terminal on a battery to many sparks when connection can surge the ecu,
could try power latch as link below
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
is the earth strap on engine mount tight, also the small black wire earth that locates to front of rocker cover is that making earth and not a broken cable
might be worth swapping the maf sensor over from other car see what you get back,
as for ecu's your right cant just plug the other one coded, no insta wont do ecu deep function tests , BBA REMEN best bet for ecu testing and repairing, its poss a cheap diagnostics tool might have effected the canbus so very rarely , more likely when connected battery ie battery went flat over time then car gets jump started most likely at this point can cause ecu damage,, the AA and RAC tell their road side techs always turn headlights on the car you are jump starting as this redirects any power surges, even when putting terminal on a battery to many sparks when connection can surge the ecu,
could try power latch as link below

Thanks for the reply Mike,
Yes, checked the earths, as I'd removed those when doing the chain.
Great tip about having the lights on when jumping, makes perfect sense.
I had a read of the link on the power latch, so that's my next step and then start doing a like for like swap with the sensors I think.

I've used BBA Reman for ABS ECU's in the past, they are excellent and it's who I had in mind were I to need the ECU tested.

Appreciate the guidance.
 

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BBA REMEN workshops are second to none sent a lot of older vag abs pump their way and nearly always fixed them on a fixed priced service repair with life time warranty on them as well no brainer for money,
will steer you to a diagnostics tool that is dealer level so cheap dont judge by the price it does most things can also reset adaptations and vanos etc , can also read the actual and prescribed positions of the vanos sprockets good thing to judge when chain needs to doing again
autocom cdp plus
 

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That does look like a good deal.

Thank you.
it is for the money nothing around that compares to it to be honest, it will code injectors and abs pumps bcm has live data on a good level and easy to use compared to insta , it also covers all brands of cars not found one yet it dont read codes on from 1996 to 2015 ish just must load it on a laptop that has no internet and no antivirus on it only used for autocom uses only, below some screen shots of live data runs i have used it on for a good idea
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as once know what codes you have then its working out why and live data is all part of that process
 

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Wish I came across that before I bought the Autel unit!
dont get me wrong some autel units are the bomb if have around around £2500 to throw at to get the level needed to fix most things, ie comes with a scope so can back probe things , i have access to pico scope at work as well as snap on diagnostics etc, sometimes get stuff that can see all the controllers and sensors and this under £50 item does all well or even better in some cases really not would you would expect for the money,, i got vag com do a fair bit of vag stuff, the other days had 2011 vw polo gti in with the DSG gear box i changed the dsg pack on front of gear box with gear box still in car made up some special tools to locate it and push the clutch fork out the way etc., when I got the back back to refit etc their is a process that must be followed etc done all that connected the battery plugged in vag com and reset the pack adaptions ran car and found it would not select gears correctly,, wasted hours with vag com, thought would just give autocom a go nothing to loose,, well it worked it then showed a screen of how to drive next ie 50 meters 1st gear then same in reverse etc to retrain the pack and was easy to understand unlike the vag own diagnostics which i am sure all car makers make these things with hidden functions to prevent anyone fixing them, few weeks a go had honda civic engine stuck it in crv with autocom coded the injectors and reset adaptations and force regen dpf , also had a 4x4 issue that allowed me to find a fault in rear diff pack do to oil worn out etc, even had a mates porsche a while ago and it read that and had all functions even live data the inlet tubes as on servo's and fail cause a flat spot,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
dont get me wrong some autel units are the bomb if have around around £2500 to throw at to get the level needed to fix most things, ie comes with a scope so can back probe things , i have access to pico scope at work as well as snap on diagnostics etc, sometimes get stuff that can see all the controllers and sensors and this under £50 item does all well or even better in some cases really not would you would expect for the money,, i got vag com do a fair bit of vag stuff, the other days had 2011 vw polo gti in with the DSG gear box i changed the dsg pack on front of gear box with gear box still in car made up some special tools to locate it and push the clutch fork out the way etc., when I got the back back to refit etc their is a process that must be followed etc done all that connected the battery plugged in vag com and reset the pack adaptions ran car and found it would not select gears correctly,, wasted hours with vag com, thought would just give autocom a go nothing to loose,, well it worked it then showed a screen of how to drive next ie 50 meters 1st gear then same in reverse etc to retrain the pack and was easy to understand unlike the vag own diagnostics which i am sure all car makers make these things with hidden functions to prevent anyone fixing them, few weeks a go had honda civic engine stuck it in crv with autocom coded the injectors and reset adaptations and force regen dpf , also had a 4x4 issue that allowed me to find a fault in rear diff pack do to oil worn out etc, even had a mates porsche a while ago and it read that and had all functions even live data the inlet tubes as on servo's and fail cause a flat spot,
I had the same thing with an Audi A5 multitronic I had in stock. Was grabbing when selecting 1st gear. Car had been sat with the battery disconnected for some weeks and the gearbox lost it's adaptations. I messed around with it for ages with VAG COM and I could get the adaptation to complete going backwards, but not forwards. Very difficult to do.
So, your saying you managed it with the unit from Ali express you linked to?
 

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I had the same thing with an Audi A5 multitronic I had in stock. Was grabbing when selecting 1st gear. Car had been sat with the battery disconnected for some weeks and the gearbox lost it's adaptations. I messed around with it for ages with VAG COM and I could get the adaptation to complete going backwards, but not forwards. Very difficult to do.
So, your saying you managed it with the unit from Ali express you linked to?
yep i sure am done a few of them now , anything up to 2013 i know for sure will, i had a 2012 golf diesel 1.6cr with 126k on the clock was a beaten car clutch went and when put new one in it would not find gears again once again try'd vag com and just went around in circles with it, used autocom on it and it went through the process and finally got all gears and smooth changes again ,, did say to owner really should send the pack off and have the latest upgrades do to it £450 worth doing he did did not want to think it got to 130k before the pack exploded as they do ,, even the psa cars with the EGS gearboxes dose everything on them as well. ford/volvo shared engines with their same type gearboxes works on most of those,, also bsi body control modules and most abs new mumps etc it will allow you to replace them can pull the code numbers off save them the rewrite them in to the new modules , and yes mine is like the one in that link twin micro board,, will say works best on windows 10 , its best to remove the internet from that laptop and remove anti virus as must not update it etc,
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So, if I'm to understand correctly; you plug that unit into the car, the software resides on the laptop and that unit then connects to the laptop via bluetooth? As that's not entirely clear in the description on Alibaba.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yep i sure am done a few of them now , anything up to 2013 i know for sure will, i had a 2012 golf diesel 1.6cr with 126k on the clock was a beaten car clutch went and when put new one in it would not find gears again once again try'd vag com and just went around in circles with it, used autocom on it and it went through the process and finally got all gears and smooth changes again ,, did say to owner really should send the pack off and have the latest upgrades do to it £450 worth doing he did did not want to think it got to 130k before the pack exploded as they do ,, even the psa cars with the EGS gearboxes dose everything on them as well. ford/volvo shared engines with their same type gearboxes works on most of those,, also bsi body control modules and most abs new mumps etc it will allow you to replace them can pull the code numbers off save them the rewrite them in to the new modules , and yes mine is like the one in that link twin micro board,, will say works best on windows 10 , its best to remove the internet from that laptop and remove anti virus as must not update it etc,
I'm trying to buy it, but it keeps asking me to "provide missing info" before allowing me to buy it and I can't for the life of me see what I'm not clicking. I've chosen the software version, but cant see anything else.
 

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So, if I'm to understand correctly; you plug that unit into the car, the software resides on the laptop and that unit then connects to the laptop via bluetooth? As that's not entirely clear in the description on Alibaba.
you can connect via blue tooth or with a head lead , the vci is the part that plugs in to the car eobd socket software on laptop you select the car and what you want to scan
below screen shots of first screen they are roll down options etc cover engine, diesels, petrols,abs.multifunctions gearbox etc, first one is how to find connect the bluetooth , will need a blue toot dongle for laptop will include an link to what i use and know works easy,
Screenshot (297).png
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Screenshot (295).png


 

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I'm trying to buy it, but it keeps asking me to "provide missing info" before allowing me to buy it and I can't for the life of me see what I'm not clicking. I've chosen the software version, but cant see anything else.
think you need to register with aliexpress i have and have a sign in page and to be honest best way can keep eye on it better, its asia ebay so get some protection
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
think you need to register with aliexpress i have and have a sign in page and to be honest best way can keep eye on it better, its asia ebay so get some protection
I've worked it out now, I had to highlight one of the four pictures, as the price changes depending on which you choose (with bluetooth, without, with 8 cables, etc). I'm not sure I need anything other than the standard OBD cable.
 

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I've worked it out now, I had to highlight one of the four pictures, as the price changes depending on which you choose (with bluetooth, without, with 8 cables, etc). I'm not sure I need anything other than the standard OBD cable.
i got full cables they come in handy if scanning hgv trucks and some of the abs and dash modules possible to write code off the car that said in the 8 years i have had mine only ever use a cable a few times for hgv stuff as the hgv software comes with it , very sure you will be gobsmacked at what it does for the money ,, i found out about it off a guy i use for ecu checking and repairs etc back then they were £150 best money i have ever spent ,, when it arrives you need to watch the install video over and over and read how to install over and over,, on mine i have the keygen tool so can get the regen codes to activate it ,, if you get stuck private message me with any questions and i'll help you to install it if you get lost in it,, but its not that bad to do once read and watch video over and over or run video to each part and do each part on the install is how i done mine the first time,
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i got full cables they come in handy if scanning hgv trucks and some of the abs and dash modules possible to write code off the car that said in the 8 years i have had mine only ever use a cable a few times for hgv stuff as the hgv software comes with it , very sure you will be gobsmacked at what it does for the money ,, i found out about it off a guy i use for ecu checking and repairs etc back then they were £150 best money i have ever spent ,, when it arrives you need to watch the install video over and over and read how to install over and over,, on mine i have the keygen tool so can get the regen codes to activate it ,, if you get stuck private message me with any questions and i'll help you to install it if you get lost in it,, but its not that bad to do once read and watch video over and over or run video to each part and do each part on the install is how i done mine the first time,

Great, thanks Mike.
I checked the earth strap on the mini last night and registered 19 ohms resistance between the post the earth strap connects to and the negative terminal of the battery. Seems a bit high to me, I would have thought you wouldn't want to see anything more than 5 ohms really.
 

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the earth straps corrode inside and have seen many go very high resistance ,, you could prove it as fault by running a good jump lead from engine clean metal to battery neg terminal ie electricity always finds easier route on lowest resistance .
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
the earth straps corrode inside and have seen many go very high resistance ,, you could prove it as fault by running a good jump lead from engine clean metal to battery neg terminal ie electricity always finds easier route on lowest resistance .
It's a visible braided strap and it does have a green tinge to it. Also, I noted I struggled to get anything other than infinite resistence when probing parts of the engine back to the battery neg terminal, although I got an audible tone when switching it to continuity test, which seems very strange to me.

I shall try what you said once I get the inlet manifold back on, which I removed to get to the throttle body.
 
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