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Discussion Starter #81
Cars is currently on 109K miles, and after watching the recent Wheeler Dealers episode and the 100K service, I decided I needed an excuse to buy more car parts :)

Here's what's on the Wheeler Dealer 100K service for anyone interested (I don't have much of it to do as I've done so much preventative maintenance over the recent years)...

Drain Fluids (Not sure why this was in his list as Oil change and Coolant are listed separately, and he didn't change brake fluid)
Oil Change + Oil Filter & Sump Plug (changed 6 months ago, new sump plug shortly after buying car 6 years / 30K miles ago)
O2 Sensor (NGK/NTK one on order, although present one seems fine)
Spark Plugs (changed a month ago)
Coil Pack (see below)
HT Leads (see below)
Thermostat (18 months ago, including housing)
Water Pump (changed 3.5 years / 18K miles ago)
Coolant (18 months ago when replacing radiator)
New Coolant Cap (4 years ago, along with coolant reservoir)
Top & Bottom Radiator Hoses (top hose changed 18 months ago when replacing radiator)
Serpentine Belt (changed 3.5 years / 18K miles ago)
Cabin Filter (changed 6 months ago)
Fuel Filter (changed 2 years ago)

In addition to his list he changed the air filter and supercharger oil.
I bought supercharger oil 3.5 years ago, then came across a guy selling brand new Eaton units very cheap (a third of the price BMW sell them for) so I put a brand new one on 3.5 years / 18K miles ago, so no need to do the oil change for it.

BTW, there's no specific 100K mile service for these cars.

Brand new genuine Coil Pack and HT Leads fitted today...
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Well the "there'll be more next weekend" is hopefully next weekend now.

But continuing with the Wheeler Dealers 100K service, the post cat O2 sensor (no idea why Wheeler Dealers only changed this one).

Got an NTK sensor, which is apparently exactly the same as what it left the factory with 13 years ago.
Only difference is, this cost me £28.99 and BMW want something like £180 (part only, no fitting).





Whole job took WAY longer than it should due to trying to figure out how to disconnect the electrical connection.
If I was to do it again it'd take 10 minutes, but that's always the way!
 

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Discussion Starter #86
It'll be interesting to know if you notice any difference
Will keep an eye on it.
When I got the car I used to get 31mpg.
After putting a 15% pulley, it dropped to 29mpg.
Now I tend to get around 26mpg, but that may be the shorter journeys.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
5mm spacers and 30mm bolts (stock bolts are 25mm)...


Only problem... I got 8 bolts for the fronts, and they're silver!!!! My standard bolts (which will remain on the rears) are black!!!!

I also have new top mounts.
The reason for going with coilovers was because if I've got to pull apart the suspension (due to a knackered top mount), and I don't fancy doing that and re-using my 13 year old springs, then I may as well go with coilovers :)
I also have new rear bolts, and R56 front pinch bolts.
 

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Hope you like and enjoy the APs JohnnyC.

I got a hardly used set and fitted them end Jan this year, with new standard top mounts, at 104k miles. Reckoned the SS+ was probably pretty much dead. Off the car it was pretty much - the shocks were extremely limp, not extending back out any more. Plus I couldn't stand the bouncy, choppy, crashy ride any longer.

I've got two aftermarket wheel/tyre combos. The ET37 wheels don't need spacers (front), the ET45s I use 2mm hubcentrics like the ones in your pic, but reckon you need 5mm for the standard ET48 wheels.

Delighted with them. Handle well, better than stock, but they are soooo comfortable. Magic carpet by comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Installed the rears today (on and off several times!).



Slackened the collar to enable transferring the old top mount and bushes


Then snug up the collar by hand to then tighten the top nut


Then adjust the collar using the tool


Repeat for other side...disaster


Turns out the metal tube-like thing that sits between the bushings had stayed attached to the old suspension and I hadn't noticed!!!!!
New bushings bought, will get them for Tuesday, lucky my daily is the bus :)

Installed





I've changed shock absorbers many times, first time coilovers, here's what I did wrong...

I thought winding the collar up (to make car sit high, close to standard) would be easier with them on the car - wrong! - very poor access at the rear (brake lines, brake disc, exhaust).
Winding them off the car is surprisingly easy :)

Use a tape measure so that at least you can get both rears (or fronts) the same height.
 

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JohnnyC, are you thinking of putting grease or spray or oil on the threads on the bodies that the collars run on?

And I used the old rear top mounts as well. New fronts.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Yes, once they've settled and I'm happy with the height I'll cover them in grease.
It's what I also do to expose bolt threads, like on the drop links etc.

I have new front top mounts as the main 'excuse' for all this is I've got a broken one...

Passenger side fine


Drivers side higher, fortunately no mushroomed strut as I have upper and lower tower defenders :)
 

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Front top mounts - captive bolts. Presume you pressed out the the standard ones and tacked longer ones in? With those top and bottom protector plates they will be too short? I had to.
 

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Drop. I didn't want to drop, lower my car either. APs - so my fronts are within a thread or two of their highest. And even at that setting they still drop the car I'd say at least 30mm. So I doubt your ride will be the same height as it was before with SS+ springs.

My rears - I need to bring up a bit in order to get some rake, currently down a little more than the fronts, so not at their max height.

FYI 3 complete turns of the collar = 1 cm of height. I've measuerd it with a second set I have that are lying about.

To give you a look, this is the stance currently, set as described above, with Team Dynamics 1.2 17x7 ET37 (no spacers) but slightly 'taller' tyres as they are 215/45/17 rather than 205s. So the arch gap loss is 4.5mm.

This site I've found useful - Will They Fit.
https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=205&aspect=45&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7&offset=37&width2=215&aspect2=45&wheel_size=17&wheel_width=7&offset2=37
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Front top mounts - captive bolts. Presume you pressed out the the standard ones and tacked longer ones in? With those top and bottom protector plates they will be too short? I had to.
No, the upper tower defenders have bolts that bolt onto the originals - and there was plenty of thread for them to bolt onto.
These bigger bolted on bolts them allow the upper defenders to fit on.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Drop. I didn't want to drop, lower my car either. APs - so my fronts are within a thread or two of their highest. And even at that setting they still drop the car I'd say at least 30mm. So I doubt your ride will be the same height as it was before with SS+ springs.
I was running Koni FSDs, but the fronts were probably 2mm higher due to the under tower plates.

The car, from the ground to the bottom of the wheel arch trim, was 640mm before.
Now it's 630mm all round.
But I expect this to drop to 620mm over a week or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Well, given that the whole point of taking the suspension apart was that I expected my drivers side top mount rubber to be destroyed, due to the difference with the passenger side (see pics above), I couldn't actually see any difference once off the car, and no damage to the rubber at all.


Here's the R53 pinch bolt compared to the R56 version, unfortunately I didn't have time to drill out the threads in the hubs as it took me so long to get the Koni FSDs out. I forgot how little space there is, the hub just doesn't seem to go down far enough to be have to get the top of the suspension out, or lift the bottom out of the hub carrier.


Installing the new top mounts to the AP coilovers.
Top tip - don't bother doing this, you'll only struggle getting the coilover into the hub and strut tower. Just install the top mount on it's own, then install the coilover and spring into the hub carrier on their own, much simpler :)


Installed, as you can tell, I'm not going for lows. There's actually very little clearance under the car as it is.


5mm spacers (and 30mm wheel bolts). *Without* the spacer there was a little more clearance than standard suspension, BUT, this was after lowering the car from the jack, if I'd have rolled the car forwards/backwards it probably would have touched.


The rear bushing kit that I ordered to be delivered on Tuesday, I've now been told they don't have any in stock!!!! Re-ordered from elsewhere and it'll be Friday at the soonest :(
Been for a short drive only and it seems to be an improvement, but not massive.
Will report more in a couple of weeks once alignment has been done.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
The rear bushing kit that I ordered to be delivered on Tuesday, I've now been told they don't have any in stock!!!! Re-ordered from elsewhere and it'll be Friday at the soonest :(
STILL not had a proper drive! Fuming!

Ordered new bushes on Saturday 21st, got told on Monday 23rd that they put them on eBay by mistake and they don't even have any, FFS #1.
Ordered from another seller on eBay on Monday 23rd and ask if there's any way of getting them quicker, they reply a DAY LATER (FFS #2) saying they do 24hr delivery for £11 more so I cancel then re-order.
So their 24hr delivered ordered Tuesday 24th at 7:30am which they acknowledged by message is not getting delivered until.... Thursday 26th, FORTY EIGHT+ HOURS later, FFS #3.

FFS #4 is that to make sure I had the quickest delivery, I had clicked on 'UK Only' in the eBay filter options. And upon checking the UPS tracking, it's coming from Biruliskiai, Lithuania.

JEEZUZ WEPT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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