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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
JUST Rolled over 100k today, and my gift - sounds like rod knock & I have no idea why

2011 Base Coupe. As I mentioned, I literally just rolled over 100k today, on my way home from work. I am sitting at about 100,008 miles. I am second owner, first owner had records of all, on time services, always used full synthetic. I continued on properly - almost obsessively. It is my daily driver, but my commute is smooth highway, about 20 miles one way. I drive another vehicle around town and on the weekends. I only use full synthetic. I have also changed the oil every 6 months because 15k miles is just too much for me, though I am sure it is fine, just not a problem for me to do it every 6 months. I have always checked the oil level when I get gas..literally every single time I have gotten gas since I have owned it for the past 2 years. I would need to put in about 1/5 a quart every month to month and a half. No leaks, literally NO problems whatsoever with this car. (Not even the timing chain guide issue)

Then today...when I get off the highway, I get to the only stop light before my house and I heard it. I thought, surely it couldn't be. It was not doing this when I left work 20 minutes prior. I absolutely would have noticed it. When in the car, I only hear it at idle because it gets drowned out by the engine noise. It is running/driving fine by the way.

I pulled into the gas station to check it out, which is when I took the first video below. Then, I drove about 2 miles home which was in town. Then I took the second video which is where you can really hear it. I haven't pulled out the scope or done any actual diagnosing, but fairly certain that it is #1 cylinder. I do have a CEL P0597 for the thermostat being stuck open. I have the replacement stat but haven't replaced it yet because it has been cold/winter/rainy forever here and I don't have a garage. I also noticed about a month back that it was about 3/4 quart low on coolant. I noticed this because my heat wasn't working at idle. However, I clearly don't think this has anything to do with it.

I'm so ****ed and have no freaking clue how this would happen considering I literally did everything to avoid this very problem. I am DIY till I die and have been working on cars since I was a mid-teen (read: basically broke and can't just take it to mechanic to get it fixed). Interestingly enough, I have done just about everything on a vehicle except ever had to deal with this issue. I have seen it done plenty, just never done it myself.

Any ideas here? I am guessing you will probably say I am correct in my assumption (barring actual diagnosis) but I sure wish it could possibly be something else I should check.

EDIT: So I have been looking around on the forums and YouTube and such and, maybe I am just wishful thinking here, but could this possibly be the friction pulley that engages the water pump? I have seen references to it sounding exactly like the rod bearing on that same side.

Grab the popcorn...

Well, there were links here for the sound, which I think is very important, but I am unable to post links until I make 15 more posts. I don't particularly have time to do so. I suppose if you search for my username on Youtube, it will be the last 2 videos I posted. Hopefully that works. (For clarification, same username as here)
 

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the friction water pump wheel when the coating breaks away and leaves some on it really does sound like the big ends have gone,,, first time i ever had it happen on a car that i just rebuilt the engine on and foolishly never pulled the spring release tab harder enough,,
would also think about timing chain top guide snapped off or chain tensioner at end of travel,, remove the oil filter check for metal, from engine oil in clean black container the leave to stand for a hour then check the bottom on container for metal frags,, no frags points to timing chain related as a rule, at 100k its well over due a chain kit if never been done before, and to be honest at 100k i would do it anyway its on borrowed time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate the response. I plan on leaving work early today to check some things out in the daylight and for sure plan on checking the oil for metal and praying I come up empty.

As far as the timing chain, I cannot, of course, rule it out bc of it being a MINI. That being said, I haven't had any telltale rattles or other chain noise that I have heard so much of around the internet and forums. Up until this point, the only noise it has ever made is the standard ticks from the direct injection. It literally went from that to now this. Of course , that means nothing and anything is possible just not necessarily the "normal" experience.

As far as a spun bearing, would there be any noticable driveability issues that would accompany if it has made it to this point? It drives as it always has. No power loss at all, no stuttering, not even rough idle. Additionally , would the sound go away (rather, just get lost in the engine noise) as RPMs are increased? Most all of the slung bearing noise sounds less consistent and syncopated and louder/sicker than mine does. Wishful thinking I suppose. Hopefully I will be able to find something out this afternoon.
 

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I appreciate the response. I plan on leaving work early today to check some things out in the daylight and for sure plan on checking the oil for metal and praying I come up empty.

As far as the timing chain, I cannot, of course, rule it out bc of it being a MINI. That being said, I haven't had any telltale rattles or other chain noise that I have heard so much of around the internet and forums. Up until this point, the only noise it has ever made is the standard ticks from the direct injection. It literally went from that to now this. Of course , that means nothing and anything is possible just not necessarily the "normal" experience.

As far as a spun bearing, would there be any noticable driveability issues that would accompany if it has made it to this point? It drives as it always has. No power loss at all, no stuttering, not even rough idle. Additionally , would the sound go away (rather, just get lost in the engine noise) as RPMs are increased? Most all of the slung bearing noise sounds less consistent and syncopated and louder/sicker than mine does. Wishful thinking I suppose. Hopefully I will be able to find something out this afternoon.
does noise change when clutch pedal pressed any tone change. possible dmf rattle maybe
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
does noise change when clutch pedal pressed any tone change. possible dmf rattle maybe
Unfortunately, no. Already tested that theory. I was wearing work clothes this morning so I couldn't really get dirty or get into it but I did start it to see what happened when it was cold. Same knock from the start. It doesn't seem to get louder or worse/quieter or better with temperature increase or decrease. The only difference that can be made is that it gets faster (in constant rhythm) as the RPMs get higher and is eventually "quieter" the higher the RPMs, but that seems to mainly be due to the rest of the engine noise drowning it out.

The other thing I noticed this morning when I started it up is that is really doesn't sound like they typical metal on metal sound of a rod knock. Of course, again, I have an agenda it not wanting it to be! That being said, I listened to all sorts of videos last night on rod knock, various vehicles, etc. and there is a quality in the timbre of actual rod knock that seems to be missing from my knock. Another thing I picked up on is that it is consistently rhythmic with the RPMs. I think I may have mentioned that in my last post, but most rod knock I have ever heard is a bit more "clattery" than I am seeing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do have new video with more detail that I will try to post this evening. However, as an update, I did a few things regarding diagnosing where this is coming from.

I revved it much higher, about 3000-3500 and it does seem to go away and them come back as the RPMs wind down. I pulled each plug, one at a time, as I would expect to hear the knock either go away or at least change/get quieter if it was rod knock (or anything in the cylinder really, wrist pin, piston slap, etc.). There is no difference in the knock whatsoever. (Hopefully a good sign).

I took the oil filter cap off to take a sample of oil and look at the filter to see if I saw any of the "death glitter" of metal shavings. It was totally clean, not a single fleck.

I used a mech. scope to listen. I could heard the knock at each of the cylinders, but it was definitely a referred sound, and fairly quiet. However, when I put the scope on one of the water pump bolts, it was absolutely louder. Tomorrow I plan on removing the tire and fender well cover to check out the pulleys and crankshaft, etc.

Also noticed it does sound a little higher up than where the crankshaft is. Also noticed it is not quite the sound of a spun bearing. The metal on metal isn't there like I have heard with other rod knock.

Waiting on a spark plug socket I had to special order that will be here tomorrow and I will test for piston movement. I am a little more hopeful that it isn't rod knock now. However, still not sure what it is. I suppose it could be timing, but it isn't rattle at all. That is a fairly classic sound and I am just not hearing it. I will post the other videos from yesterday this evening hopefully.
 

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I do have new video with more detail that I will try to post this evening. However, as an update, I did a few things regarding diagnosing where this is coming from.

I revved it much higher, about 3000-3500 and it does seem to go away and them come back as the RPMs wind down. I pulled each plug, one at a time, as I would expect to hear the knock either go away or at least change/get quieter if it was rod knock (or anything in the cylinder really, wrist pin, piston slap, etc.). There is no difference in the knock whatsoever. (Hopefully a good sign).

I took the oil filter cap off to take a sample of oil and look at the filter to see if I saw any of the "death glitter" of metal shavings. It was totally clean, not a single fleck.

I used a mech. scope to listen. I could heard the knock at each of the cylinders, but it was definitely a referred sound, and fairly quiet. However, when I put the scope on one of the water pump bolts, it was absolutely louder. Tomorrow I plan on removing the tire and fender well cover to check out the pulleys and crankshaft, etc.

Also noticed it does sound a little higher up than where the crankshaft is. Also noticed it is not quite the sound of a spun bearing. The metal on metal isn't there like I have heard with other rod knock.

Waiting on a spark plug socket I had to special order that will be here tomorrow and I will test for piston movement. I am a little more hopeful that it isn't rod knock now. However, still not sure what it is. I suppose it could be timing, but it isn't rattle at all. That is a fairly classic sound and I am just not hearing it. I will post the other videos from yesterday this evening hopefully.
also would check the alternator free wheel pulley these do fail and knock know when fail, can also see the belt sort of jump when turning, remove pulley belt run car
below link the part
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-Alt...4:g:pnkAAOSw5wFcPgKp:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
 
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