For those who were interested in a lambo door conversion some time ago, i have resently recieved an update from auto fashion. There kit has now gone into production at the price of £950, or £1450 fully fitted. this is wat it will luk like:
Lambo Doors
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and this is how its fit:
Open the bonnet and remove the battery connections. Remove the front wings, and washer bottle(s).
Remove the checkstraps from the door and the wiring multi-plug.
Whilst the door is easy to work on its worth while to remove the door card - 4 torx fixings and then standard clips (do not forget the fixing under the reflector).
Remove the bonnet hinges (you do not need to remove the bonnet, but it can be easier to do so)
With the help on an assistant remove the door itself.
Carefully mask up the windscreen and the car itself. The sparks from cutting through the hinge will burn or melt almost anything so be very careful.
The idea is to cut the large lump on the hinge leaving a flat area for the mechanism to be bolted onto. The grinding should therefore be done very carefully. We use a 9 inch grinder for speed and
Wearing gloves, goggles and taking extreme care cut the hinge.
Once cut off with the large grinder, we then tidy it up with a smaller 4.5 inch hard disc grinder, making the surface as flat as we possibly can. Then we tidy it again with a fibre disc grinder.
The place the door back into position, and bolt the mechanism into place on the door, it re-uses one of the hinge mounting holes. The other holes have to be marked and drilled. Mark and punch the centre of the other four mounting holes. It is important to mark the centre because you need the adjustment that this offers.
Use the tap set to tap the holes out. The mechanism can now be bolted into place.
The black ram supports the weight of the door and must be fitted separately. After fitting the mechanism have an assistant lift the door.
Fit the ram to the bottom fixing, and then have your assistant hold the door at the correct height so that the top fixing aligns with the hole in the arm - bolt it up using the two spacer washers behind the top rose joint.
You can now let go of the door - it will hold itself, and should now lift and lower correctly!
The Lower position adjuster can be set so that when the door is fully down (but not closed) the striker and catch align correctly. Turn the screw clockwise to lift and anti-clockwise to lower the door.
The washer bottle (or bag) is fitted as in the picture. The bag needs the original BMW pump removing from the original plastic bottle. Then remove the pump from the new bag and install the BMW one. You will have to put a small cut in the retaining strap to allow the slightly larger BMW pump to fit.
Drill the holes as required in the plastic bulkhead as per the picture and gently feed the bag down past the brake lines. The bag is rated at 1.8 litres which is the slightly less than we have measured the original at 2.00 litres, so it is likely it will need filling more regularly.
Only one bag is supplied so if you have headlight washers you will need to purchase another bag.
The wings need slight modification to allow the arm to pass through. They need to be cut as per the photo but you should cut it as required for your particular car.
We recommend cutting, and not snipping and folding because it looks tidier. The wings are thicker than most cars and because of this do not distort provided that you are careful. Keep as much metal as possible.
The wiring needs to be extended. We use 7 core trailer wire for this because it is very durable, and is intended for external use. Because most BMW door wiring is 20-25 wires you need 3 wires. The original mount and grommet can be modified on the car, and cable tied to the arm. Set the wiring as the minimum slack with the door fully open and watch that is does not become jammed when the door is closed.
Open the bonnet and remove the battery connections. Remove the front wings, and washer bottle(s).
Remove the checkstraps from the door and the wiring multi-plug.
Whilst the door is easy to work on its worth while to remove the door card - 4 torx fixings and then standard clips (do not forget the fixing under the reflector).
Remove the bonnet hinges (you do not need to remove the bonnet, but it can be easier to do so)
With the help on an assistant remove the door itself.
Carefully mask up the windscreen and the car itself. The sparks from cutting through the hinge will burn or melt almost anything so be very careful.
The idea is to cut the large lump on the hinge leaving a flat area for the mechanism to be bolted onto. The grinding should therefore be done very carefully. We use a 9 inch grinder for speed and
Wearing gloves, goggles and taking extreme care cut the hinge.
Once cut off with the large grinder, we then tidy it up with a smaller 4.5 inch hard disc grinder, making the surface as flat as we possibly can. Then we tidy it again with a fibre disc grinder.
The place the door back into position, and bolt the mechanism into place on the door, it re-uses one of the hinge mounting holes. The other holes have to be marked and drilled. Mark and punch the centre of the other four mounting holes. It is important to mark the centre because you need the adjustment that this offers.
Use the tap set to tap the holes out. The mechanism can now be bolted into place.
The black ram supports the weight of the door and must be fitted separately. After fitting the mechanism have an assistant lift the door.
Fit the ram to the bottom fixing, and then have your assistant hold the door at the correct height so that the top fixing aligns with the hole in the arm - bolt it up using the two spacer washers behind the top rose joint.
You can now let go of the door - it will hold itself, and should now lift and lower correctly!
The Lower position adjuster can be set so that when the door is fully down (but not closed) the striker and catch align correctly. Turn the screw clockwise to lift and anti-clockwise to lower the door.
The washer bottle (or bag) is fitted as in the picture. The bag needs the original BMW pump removing from the original plastic bottle. Then remove the pump from the new bag and install the BMW one. You will have to put a small cut in the retaining strap to allow the slightly larger BMW pump to fit.
Drill the holes as required in the plastic bulkhead as per the picture and gently feed the bag down past the brake lines. The bag is rated at 1.8 litres which is the slightly less than we have measured the original at 2.00 litres, so it is likely it will need filling more regularly.
Only one bag is supplied so if you have headlight washers you will need to purchase another bag.
The wings need slight modification to allow the arm to pass through. They need to be cut as per the photo but you should cut it as required for your particular car.
We recommend cutting, and not snipping and folding because it looks tidier. The wings are thicker than most cars and because of this do not distort provided that you are careful. Keep as much metal as possible.
The wiring needs to be extended. We use 7 core trailer wire for this because it is very durable, and is intended for external use. Because most BMW door wiring is 20-25 wires you need 3 wires. The original mount and grommet can be modified on the car, and cable tied to the arm. Set the wiring as the minimum slack with the door fully open and watch that is does not become jammed when the door is closed.
Attachments
and incase ur interested this is what you get for you munis:
Pair on door conversion mechanisms.
Pair of support rams with ram covers.
Bolts/Washers.
Replacement Washer bottle.
Pair of new Bonnet hinges.
Pair of new bonnet rams.
Tap set (used to tap hinge blocks for bolts).
Drill bit - correct size for tap
and the above guide to fitting.
Pair on door conversion mechanisms.
Pair of support rams with ram covers.
Bolts/Washers.
Replacement Washer bottle.
Pair of new Bonnet hinges.
Pair of new bonnet rams.
Tap set (used to tap hinge blocks for bolts).
Drill bit - correct size for tap
and the above guide to fitting.
Attachments
Joined
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1,626 Posts
hmm from the looks of those hinges.... i think i'll wait for the Deca one to come out. no offense. looks good though.
non taken, it aintmy car or nefin, so wo du i care!! lolKJ_daGreenMini said:
the only probs i can c wiv the decah kit it that a) u av 2 b a limbo dancer to get in ur car! and b) the decah kit aint made for everyday use, but for show use, so what wear an tear effects will be, i dont no.
Joined
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885 Posts
Your right about the decah kit - i recently had a honda prelude come in with these doors and they looked rubbish as they simply didnt raise high enough. It was impossible to get into the car and quite honestly, it looked radiculous - people were laughing when they saw it! I reckon if you have the money and are mad enough to spend £1500 on making your doors open up differently, this kit seems better.
Joined
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2,715 Posts
Im running out of things to do now lol 
Ive been looking at different ideas for my doors, this being one of them, still not sure about it tho. I like it but there not called lambo doors for nothing.......cause they should be on a lamborghini, same as viper strips, they should be on vipers!
Ive been looking at different ideas for my doors, this being one of them, still not sure about it tho. I like it but there not called lambo doors for nothing.......cause they should be on a lamborghini, same as viper strips, they should be on vipers!
Joined
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1,626 Posts
i reckon it all comes down to how they are fitted. I''ve seen a deca kit on a flipped FTO and it looks superb. Also a friends R33. I also know of an integra up this way with the Deca kit fitted and i never had problems getting in and out. preference i guess. But the Deca kit, to me, seems to have a better mechanism.chughes163 said:
I guess i'll need to see this one in the flesh. Its just the bracket looks a bit... boney? lol.
well officially therre called 'Scissor Doors'Mini Cruiser said:Im running out of things to do now lol
and originally 'Viper Stripes' went on AC Cobras!!!
He he, so boo on u!
well the hinge is made from 12mm CNC machined plate. it doesnt say wot plate (i.e steel or alloy) but it'll propably be steel, which aint really gonna budge. im not sayin theres 950 notes worth of stuff there, but i fink it'll take the weight, i may have an experiment at work!KJ_daGreenMini said:
The Lambotek kit mentioned above is made to a far superior standard than the Decah kit. The dimensions of the steel are similar, but the lambotek mechanism contains hardened taper roller bearings and lubricated for life bushes. The Decah kit has metal to metal contact on the main pivot which causes them to wear at an incredible rate (they are not tight to start with).
The support rams that we use are specially designed to handle the day to day UK use. The Decah rams do not seem to last and we have seen them fail after only 2 weeks.
Decah kits only open to about 50 degrees which is OK for once a month show use, but beleive me is a real pain in daily use. The Lambotek rams have double seals (are correctly mounted for lubrication - the Decah ones do not fit and so are mounted upside down) and the lambotek rams also have dust sheilds which prolongs life.
The Lambotek MINI kits are also considerably more stable than the Decah Civic kits due to the way they are mounted.
The Decah kits were the original but they are without doubt the cheapest made kits on the market. They do a good job if you have a show car, but they are not built to the sort of standard a BMW customer would accept, and do not withstand daily use. You should note that we actually sell both kits, but only on the basis that the customer has the information above.
If you have any questions then please feel free to contact us.
www.lambodoors.co.uk
The support rams that we use are specially designed to handle the day to day UK use. The Decah rams do not seem to last and we have seen them fail after only 2 weeks.
Decah kits only open to about 50 degrees which is OK for once a month show use, but beleive me is a real pain in daily use. The Lambotek rams have double seals (are correctly mounted for lubrication - the Decah ones do not fit and so are mounted upside down) and the lambotek rams also have dust sheilds which prolongs life.
The Lambotek MINI kits are also considerably more stable than the Decah Civic kits due to the way they are mounted.
The Decah kits were the original but they are without doubt the cheapest made kits on the market. They do a good job if you have a show car, but they are not built to the sort of standard a BMW customer would accept, and do not withstand daily use. You should note that we actually sell both kits, but only on the basis that the customer has the information above.
If you have any questions then please feel free to contact us.
www.lambodoors.co.uk
Joined
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1,626 Posts
ah thanks for the comparison. cleared up a lot of things. it didnt dawn on me that the decah kit was mainly for show.wendle said:
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