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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
received a really nice condition light green clubman cooper s on a 2008 year, really nice spec car,, for engine refresh also a remap to around 210bhp at wheels, so what I do with these jobs is to have it mapped on the worn engine as impossible to test the map when running the car in after refresh work,, ie needs to do a good 1000 miles gentle before changing oil and filter and then go play etc, i'll do live data runs on it before pulling apart to be sure when all back together its where it needs to be etc,, did notice coolant level bit low and some mayo in oil cap all in keeping with things refresh and better rings sort that out mostly, I always check everything form water pump to 12v aux pump to thermo housing etc as would be all kinds of stupid not to,, i also as fuel rail comes off i spray seafoam injection cleaner in to it when remove it so its soaks for a few days while i'm doing engine work, then leave some in for first start up cleans them out, i also pull the oil filter housing off the side of the block and reseal the seals as precaution as its easy to d this while head and turbo is off ie common leak point with age, ie fit new seals as part of the job, this will have a full timing chain kit etc,, and I have now got the latest psa piston rings update only release recently ,, psa have stopped using the flexi bmw oil rings now use a single twin solid rings that are 1mm each thickness even better than the 3 piece ring sets i normally use and they are so much better than the flexi crap bmw were using in them ,, will monday evening put pics up for new rings and part numbers for others to play with, and how far stripped this latest one is,,,, I got a countryman all4 cooper s coming after this one for same treatment ,
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58 FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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similar to the rings I use by the sounds of it, single piece dual ring with the spring beneath it on these, not every time but for ring only jobs perhaps, the spring pushing it out instead of over it like the OEM split type
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
similar to the rings I use by the sounds of it, single piece dual ring with the spring beneath it on these, not every time but for ring only jobs perhaps, the spring pushing it out instead of over it like the OEM split type
View attachment 284243
they do look same they also feel stronger as well, RS1600 is part number I believe on box, come is 4 different boxes ie one box per ring set, so much better than those crap flexi rings bmw fit ,, i pulled one out the other day for a look and are very must stiffer should be easier to fit than the 3 piece type ,
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58 FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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these ones are Hepolite, could well be an OEM supplier, indeed they're a lot stronger, also per cyl.

they're harder to fit imo, the spring can buckle in the gap instead of sliding under the ring during compression, the three piece ones don't even need a ring compressor really, no chance with these😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I always run hone tool over top lip of bore to cut very slight funnel effect to it, then lag the piston and the bore top with engine builders lubricant and oil makes them slide in easier, I do a fair bit of vag stuff and they use the solid oil rings the same, also its how set the ring gaps up in ring compressor I find ,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
so to day took car up to rolling road before strip down wanted to check a few things within the ecu and fuelling, lucky I did I we found car was really badly leaning out it did go through mot on emissions as such ,, so i have been stripping it and looking for issues along the way, first off found white residue on header tank and its top sign of headgasket repair gunge been used at some point, it also was running around with green antifreeze,, should be pink ,, I did check this today at parts shop and confirmed I was right and have not been fitting wrong stuff on all prince engine cars psa used same colour, below can see pic of timing tool locks for camshafts and can see inlet camshaft is around 2 teeth out,, timing chain looks as to have been done around 30k ago maybe ,, did notice the stretch bolts for sprockets did not go off with a crack when undone them and were very easy to undo,,, hmmm signs of someone reused the old bolts proper stupid thing to do on these,, anyway as all my refresh jobs get new timing chain full kits and oil pump chain etc, i also found oil in the vac tank for the turbo vac circuit and oil from vac pump in to the pipes,, so vac pump is on last legs not far off locking up and destroying the engine so caught in time,, I did also find reason for the head gasket gunk the gasket was bowed when i removed head,, most likely due to heat i expect no signs of head cracked or block,, reason for lean up was cat had loads of oil grud residue on the top of it and both 02 sensors very lazy adding to the issues,, so told owner he wants it right as do i new cat and two new 02 sensors ntk ordered, after i got head off could see bores look like new so this will hone up really nice and the better rings will sort out its oil first,, also exhaust valves stem when look in exhaust ports are all wet with oil and baked on like they all go,, this car has 83000 miles on it really nice car good spec bought well on that level its kind of mini I would buy for myself if had time to own one lol, tomorrow i will strip head and clean strip bottom end,, today went slow as took a while to work out what was going on when it was on rolling road,, i use after market cat as genuine bmw ones are nuts money, last two i done went through mot emissions HC under 10 and CO was on the floor so know these cats work,
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pics below
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mines running with blue anti freeze glad its coming to you will enjoy the car more once i know its sorted
I put strong dose of pink in there as it reduces the water content helps prevent rust and reduces the hot spotting a tad I feel, in very very cold country's they use it neat so its just a cost thing why they dont from new,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
today pulled all pistons out and honed the bores fitted new piston rings and refitted all the pistons , then pulled all valves out of head and set about that one got head ready to drop on block etc, found the oil control ring for vanos was snapped also found slit dints in all 4 pistons in keeping with a timing chain failure a while ago,, they only fitted new valve stem seals on the only bent exhaust valves as were different colour half a job,,,
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the new piston rings sets are better again so will keep using them really easy to fit compared
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the newer rings are easy to fit easier than 3 piece sets
 

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All done and I now have my car back with it massively improved engine. Drove the 170 miles home at 70 mph keeping the revs under 3000, no dramas, it is definitely quieter, and I can feel that it is making more low down torque. Huge thanks to Mike1967 for his attention to detail and his very informative videos that he's been sending on a daily basis for every stage and point of interest of the rebuild - I've learnt an awful lot from them. Can't wait to get it run in!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
All done and I now have my car back with it massively improved engine. Drove the 170 miles home at 70 mph keeping the revs under 3000, no dramas, it is definitely quieter, and I can feel that it is making more low down torque. Huge thanks to Mike1967 for his attention to detail and his very informative videos that he's been sending on a daily basis for every stage and point of interest of the rebuild - I've learnt an awful lot from them. Can't wait to get it run in!
thank you for kind words , must admit your car was a easy one you bought a nice car,
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Done 600 miles now and no oil use at all. Engine feels really good and smooth. Not long now before I can give it full throttle
yep another one run in gentle and not eating oil for it,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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